smithys 75 kombi

[smithy658]

we cant forget ive had some great help from steve and his kombi milly alone the way threw all of this
with everything out we cleaned her out and gave her a good spray starting to look really
nice now just 2 sports we gotta fix up and its ready to get some colour on her

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[smithy658]

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[smithy658]

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[smithy658]

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[milly]

Jacob,
Emilly wants a picture of the Turtle in the bus.

Steve

[smithy658]

haha im sure noah can arrange that for u steve

[cbus]

Sorry smithy. Dont always find new posts.

Bit late but may be able to save you some grief.

Was the 'filler' spray putty or a primer filler ?

Basic steps are [after the bogging and rust removal/metal treatment]

Wipe with wax n grease remover
Sand all surfaces with 180 dry
Blow all dust out of sanding scratches etc
prime all surface with at least 2 good full coats of primer so you cant see through it.

Apply spray putty . 3 wet coats with 1/4-1/2 hr drying between.[ prob need 10% thinners to get it to spray]

The idea is to get the gun to apply it smoothly rather than do a heap of unecessary sanding of poorly applied paint

block sand with 180 dry

repeat putty if needed.

final sand with 240 dry

blow down real well n clean with wax n grease . wipe dry while wet. make sure surface clean.

2-3 full coats primer.

sand primer with 320 dry

if all good do a final primer as if it were the 1st top coat . ie nice n even n wet.

sand with 400 then 600 to just make sure the surface is perfect

dust off real well. Tac rag surface

Apply 1 3/4 coat and 2-3 full coats of top coat colour acrylic.

if its a bit dry or orange peel effect- sand with 600-800 [when dried for day to allow for shrinkage]
apply 2 more full/wet coats of colour to a standard that shouldnt require too much buffing.

This final bit is easier and more economical than applying a heap of extra coats and sanding to achieve a smooth surface before buffing


Points

You MUST have primer under and over spray putty.

throw away your low pressure gun and get a $60 scorpion high pressure gun . [gravity or suction] 1.8-2.0 nozzle.

You need a decent compressor for the final primer and top coats

You MUST have a good water trap in line . Any moisture WILL give spots in the paint that will pop off

The application of paint needs to be more even than shown in photos.
Not having a go at your good attempt so far but its obvious that the equipment isnt up to the task.
If you want to continue for a while with the little compressor you must have a good water trap/regulator and only do a panel at a time . Rest the compressor for it to cool down and drain the tank each time between panels. Realy it wont do the job except for small panel spot repairs.
Not a hope in hell that it will do the roof or a full side.

Good on you for doing it yourself but you need the proper gear to get a good finish and prevent a lot of hard work/extra expense in materials, at the final stages

cheers
col

[smithy658]

thanks heaps for the advice col i know what you mean
lucky it was only the first coat of primer that we applied and haven't put anymore on yet
we will sand it back with some 600 before we apply another coat but before that i will defiantly invest in a gravity feed spray gun was planning on buying one for the paint but was unsure how the low pressure one would go with a primer , and a water trap before apply the last coat or 2 with primer and rest the compressor every panel

with the application in the pics it looks a bit all over the place but we had some left over paint in the spray gun so i just sprayed over a couple of bits and piece and was wet when the picture was taken and u cant tell now but i will defiantly be more careful when it comes to the colour
lucky the roof has already been done before hand
thanks again just in time
cheers Jacob

[cbus]

Sounds good.
Could just see the passes on the flat panels that were still wet.

Dont use 600 till youre doing the last sand before top coats. Takes too long and hard to keep clear of dust. Dont wet sand primer .180-240 at this stage

If sandpaper too fine it doesnt cut enough to level the surface. more important at this stage to straighten than go fine finish.

1/2 sheet sanding block is real handy and only 4-10 bucks depending where you get it. The cheap ones are ok. just look down the edges and pick one that is straight.

Blue foam sanding blocks about the size of a pac of ciggies is also a nice thing to have. just the right density.

Scourer pads are a handy item for sanding the interior ribs/doorjambs etc.se the ones from a paint shop. They come in different grades/colours that = sandpaper grits. probably go a red

IMPORTANT. need the water trap for all the spraying. About $80 for a quality one from trade tools. combination unit. regulator/water trap.Maybe a bit cheaper. but an important item.

Gravity is the preferred gun but not essential. Careful its not HVLP although supercheap had one at around 80 that actualy works ok.

Although the inside looks ok in the photos ,I would suggest doing one panel at a time on the outside so you can maintain the 'wet line' and 50% overlap with your restricted air supply.
Just mask off at the joins and alternate panels to get a nice smooth application.

Makes life a bit easier and often apply a similar method myself when doing it at home in less than perfect conditions. Especialy if using acrylic.

Dont go a cheap primer or topcoat. good quality is easier to apply to a good finish .
I will check the primer brand but think its Panelmaster. Croda? goes on well as more expensive primer/putty and about $50 /4L.
I like Dupont or PPG for top coat. Both will cover in 3 coats and come up good if you use the panel[or 2] at a time method and need stuff all polishing.

Hopefully you are not doing yellow.
Now we have no lead in the tinters its gutless and takes at least 5 coats to cover.

Always have an even cover of primer under top coat applications. Patches of a different colour take ages[many coats] to hide.

Scorpion or star do good economy sprayguns. Dont go smaller than 1.8 for acrylic. Have seen boxed guns that are heavier in the handles [look like copy of devilbiss]and come with 3 nozzle setups. 1.4-2.0-2.5. about $99. Good gun for the price with a large fan and plenty of air flow. The 2.5 is good for spray putty and the 2.0 gets a roof done quickly but with finess

The LP gun may be better for the thick putty.
Personaly I would thin up to 10% and use a 2.0 or larger gravity and get wet /smooth coats quickly and allow plenty of flash off[thinners drying] time in between coats[1/2 hr?]

cheers
col

cheers
col

[cbus]

Acrylic over the different types of sanded surface you have will have issues with swellingof substrate.[original paint]
Apply single coats with plenty of time for the thinners to flash off between coats.

After the first 2-3 coats allow at least a week in warm weather for all swelling to subside before sanding.
This is realy important otherwise you will get shrinkage later on after application of topcoat. VERY annoying

After the first coats and week drying you can do the putty. Putty isnt as bad as it doesnt have as much solvent which is what causes the problem and actualy acts as a bit of an isolator for the following coats. Also I think the solvents in putty may have more alcohol or nitrocellulose thinners which arent as agressive.
Regardless you must allow more time than may seem necessary for any swelling to subside.
After the putty it will be easier but carefull of any areas where you sand thru edges. Especially if going thru to original lacquer or enamel. Carefull of any 'frying' of original paints.

Heavy /multiple applications can force thinners down rather than allowing them to evapourate so keep an eye on this ,especialy in the early stages

cheers
col

[smithy658]

been a bit wet in port of late so ive collected all the paint for the car and the new spray gun etc but in the time been ive been collecting ideas for the interior from kc,magz, youtube
and came across this one
what dose the kc think of these



where you see the tail gate ill put a tv across that wall there and a couple of speakers

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[smithy658]

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[vinny]

thanks for the those pics, thats exactly what i'll be doing!

[smithy658]

looks great cant wait to see the finished project

[bolts]

Will these seats be approved by RTA?

[bolts]

If you want to be legal then you will need to engage an engineer. The engineer will approve the seat structure, mounting and seat belts as needed.

Good luck with that

[smithy658]

yeh thats right bolts
only problem is that the liability is so high for those engineers so they charge $$$$$$$$

[bolts]

I was trying to be subtle, hoping you would take the hint.

I guess my subtlety is not working.

What value are you putting on your passenger's lives? Obviously less than the cost of an engineer's inspection.

You are building a death trap.

[cbus]

I Have to go with Bolts.

Not worth the crap. If you have an accident and someone gets hurt your arse is in a sling. Insurance companies will do anything to avoid a payout and a good chance you would face charges
Only option would be no passengers in the back. Pay to Check that this would be approved .
Nice concept but dont risk it as a people carrier without ticking all the boxes

cheers
col

[smithy658]

hahaa cheers cbus ill have a look into rta inspections before i start building her so i can get it approved