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Thread: Oil leaking around Cylinder to block

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Default Oil leaking around Cylinder to block

    Hi guys i have just my 1976 kombi on the road ,it has been sitting for the past 5 years and now driving it i have noticed Oil leaking around the cylinder block and the heads, do they have gaskets ? Every time i pull up i have the size of two 50 cent peaces of oil under the van
    Any quick fix, as ninbin martigrass is come up very soon.
    Many thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
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    werribee
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    no head gaskets mate, try retensioning your heads asits pretty common for them to come loose... if you need specs shout out... if not it could be pushrod seals or possibly leaking elsewhere.
    kombi kombi kombi kombi

  3. #3
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    Oct 2005
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    Default

    There is not really any oil in that area. Usually it is push rod tube seals.

  4. #4
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    Hazelbrook - Blue Mountains - NSW
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    Default

    I agree with above, I was also thinking it could be your oil cooler seals. Best to give the engine a good degrease and this should help locate the oil leak

    Cheers

    Greg
    If I'm not going in a Volkswagen I'm not going

    1962 1200 Beetle
    1965 1200 Beetle
    1982 T3 Transporter
    1985 T3 Caravelle
    2001 Golf
    2011 Polo TDI

  5. #5
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    Mar 2013
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    hi guys thanks for the info
    i have cleaned it spotless, i have also checked where the block meets together, clean! Im definite its coming from around the cylinders on the right hand side
    but will look into further, but i might retention the heads i think

  6. #6
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    Aug 2012
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    Ashgrove
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    Darren

    If you are thinking of retensioning the heads ensure you follow the torgue seqences and have a tension wrench that you are clear when the tension is reached. In the event it doesn't reach the tension, the head bolt is stripping out of the case. If that happens, well a big job is ahead.....
    Weekender
    MACCA - 78 2L Camper: Even more power to the workers

  7. #7
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    Oct 2011
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    werribee
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    agree with everyone!! if retensioning go by the right specs and try not to use a dodgy torque wrench! it has happened to mine also it was about three quaters of a turn from been torqued so yeah just be carefull hey!! if you need a hand with anything just shout out.
    kombi kombi kombi kombi

  8. #8
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    I can't really see how that could fix an oil leak???????
    There is (or should) not be any oil in the top of the cylinder or the combustion chamber of the head.
    The only oil there is in the pushrod tubes and the rocker cover.

  9. #9
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    Mar 2013
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    hi thanks for the info
    I have a a genuine workshop manual to refer to with the settings and sequence ,Once again have cleaned it twice and removed the blower cover and i can see it coming out, but when its at running temp it stops, when you shut it down a little oil comes out again, thats why i did a post because i didnt think oil could come out there?? beats me ! The weekend will tell the story

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    newcastle
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    yep see it all the time, normally on old worn VW engines, oil around between heads and barrells.
    hopefully its not that and it just the cheaper pushrods seal repair.

  11. #11
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    Mar 2013
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    Yep its old and worn i think, but otherwise it does miss a beet! I dont have much history on the engine all i got told that the valves were done to run on unleaded, but its still is the original engine

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by darren102 View Post
    all i got told that the valves were done to run on unleaded,
    The valves were for unleaded when it left the factory. There is no other kind of valves.

  13. #13
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    Sep 2011
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    Forster
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    push rod tubes, rocker cover, oil cooler, oil pump.

  14. #14
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    Jan 2010
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    newcastle
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    Also have a look at the oil presure switch .

  15. #15
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    Apr 2013
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    The sunny Northern Beaches Sydney
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    Default

    All type 4 engines came from the factory with a steel shim type head gasket and when the engine gets old and worn, oil that leaks past the rings starts to leak between the head and barrell. Just about every engine I have stripped for a rebuild leaked at this spot. The most important thing to remember is if/when you decide to repair or recon your engine, get your heads flycut (machined) where the barrell sits and lap the new barrells in for a perfect seal. Using the origional head gaskets after this is done is optional. I personally don't use them in any engine I build however I make sure the compression ratio and valve geometry is correct. It's up to you. The Spanish AMC heads don't need the head gasket as they have a decompression lip machined into them.

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