1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

1/4 window blues

Discussion in 'Body' started by rstucke, Jun 8, 2017.

  1. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    659
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Hi
    Nearing the end of my resto and decided to replace my fixed front 1/4 windows with opening ones as the fixed ones were in pretty bad shape. So got some good 2nd hand ones, replaced the rubbers, fitted them and they're too short by more than 10mm, bugger!
    I've laid them on top of the old fixed 1/4's and sure enough too short.
    Has anyone had this problem and does anyone know if there is a different size opening 1/4 window that replace the late bay (79) fixed ones?

    P6070003.jpg
     
  2. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    936
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Can you put up a picture of entire 1/4 window with ruler held against it? Window certainly looks authentic. Will compare to my bus tonight.
     
  3. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    659
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Hi paul77
    Sorry, I jumped the gun.
    I didn't realise that the 2 types of 1/4 windows sit in different ways.
    The frame of the fixed type sits inside the channel of the door at the top and bottom with the rubber flanges to suit the trim
    Where as the frame of the opening type sits a little higher at the bottom and level with the door channel at the top, the rubber flanges being higher and lower to meet the trim. So the fit with the trim in place ended up good
    Rick
    P6080006.jpg
     
    Mr Beckstar, paul77 and oldman like this.
  4. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    936
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Such a fun job putting the doors back together NOT!!
     
  5. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    659
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    What an absolutely horrible job. Took for ever to get everything to sit right.
    How the hell did they manage this on an assembly line.
     
  6. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    936
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I have heard a rumour it was actually a trade test.
     
    David H likes this.
  7. Borgey

    Borgey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    540
    Location:
    Helensburgh
    Will be replacing mine also before summer. Are the rubbers of good quality? Also did you have to pop out the original pop river pin thingy or did you do a small slice on the new rubber? I ask this as Boris from vintage recommended cutting rubber rather then pushing out the pin as it's a strong factory pin!!
     
  8. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    659
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Hi Bogey
    I removed the pins. This allowed me to bead blast the painted frames (bit rusty) and re paint. Also made it easier to polish the aluminium upright part
    Rubbers came from JK (sorry Roy) and were a good fit but took a little time to get them in the channel they sit in properly (no glue required).
    Did notice that the originals had elongated holes on the leading edge rubber. The lower ones I believe are to let water out caught between rubber and flipper and the ones up the side allows a little air flow to push water out that could be forced in there while driving, the inside of the door actually pressurises a little while driving forward (there is also a vent in the back of the door for your comfort on a hot day).
    Anyway the new rubbers had a thin web over these holes so I punched through and pinched out the web with a pair of long nosed pliers as I think they are necessary to help water tightness.
    The rivets are aluminium but unlike a pop rivet have no centre hole so just using a drill isn't going to work real well. I used a small centre punch and guessed the middle. Then a very small drill but only drilled to about the level of the frame (not through it) then followed with a 4mm drill but again only to level with the frame. I then used a pin punch to knock the rivet out (a 75mm nail will do but grind the point off first and make sure its 3.5mm dia). The holes in the metal are slightly less than 4mm so a 4mm drill and corresponding pop rivets to re assemble (make sure the flat part of the rivet sites in the aluminium channel or the back rubber won't sit properly.

    P6090002.jpg
    P6140004.jpg
     
    cbus likes this.
  9. Borgey

    Borgey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    540
    Location:
    Helensburgh
    Thanks for that mate. Will get on it sooner rather then later!! Looks great by the way
     
  10. Cherie Whenan

    Cherie Whenan New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Thornleigh, Sydney
    Hi Rick,
    We decided to buy new 1/4 vent windows for the cab as the ventilation would be better for Craig as his' body thermostat' does not function too well in the heat. Bought them from Roy.
    On the other hand, Craig and I are now in the process of repairing our 3 x 1/4 windows and replacing all the rubbers and 'bits' as well for the 2 on the driver's side and the one on the sliding door/passenger side of our 1976 Kombi. Too expensive to buy new.
    We have a friend who is a genius with all things mechanical and after lots of toing and froing, (we also thought they were too short; purchased from JK),we realised that the flat rubbers, that wrap around the glass and then fit into the channel of the frame are stretched around the glass first. When the rubbers are stretched like this, they are not too short and actually hug the glass securing them well and so no glue is required. This enables the glass to be slipped into the frame more easily.
    Once stretched around the glass ( you will probably need 2 people to do this and hold it fiim in a vice), you then secure the rubber to the glass with electrical tape until ready to place in the frame. I will send a photo when I can for you , hope this helps.
    Cheers Cherie
     
    David H likes this.
  11. Cherie Whenan

    Cherie Whenan New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Thornleigh, Sydney
    You are a clever vegemite. The windows look great. Hope our !/4's look just as good for the back windows.
    Cheers Cherie
     
  12. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,044
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    I took the easy way out......purchased the complete units from Roy.
    A bit of time to dismantle the fixed 1/4’s but fitting the new ones was really pretty simple. I also replaced the inner & outer scrapers at the same time.
    Patience is the key. Go slowly and steadily. You should comfortably do a r’n’r to both sides in an easy day. Having the right gear certainly helps.
    Buy once, cry once.......as the saying goes.;)
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    StevieVW likes this.
  13. Cherie Whenan

    Cherie Whenan New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Thornleigh, Sydney
    Photo of the stretched rubber as promised if this helps,
    IMG_1157.JPG IMG_1157.JPG Cheer Cherie IMG_1157.JPG
     
  14. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,473
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    This would have to have been the job for the naughty employees on the production line.....
     
  15. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,706
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I swapped out a door on the weekend and I must have done something wrong. I have put it off for 2 years with the worry it would be so painful. It took around 3 hours total, inc strip down old door and refit to new empty one. I wasn't rushing as everybody says you have to be patient and thought I might do a bit to get started. Worst job on a Kombi they keep saying. Where did I go wrong?

    Apart from 2 tiny bits of scratching of the paint on the new door on the inside, and a couple of rusted clips I have to replace eventually I didn't have really any difficult bits apart from possibly getting the quarter window base to go into the slot with the main glass in place(until I just pushed the glass to the out side) and a break in the window felt channel, and it still works.

    I really think I dodged a bullet and got an easy one, I would hate to have to do it on a freshly painted door that wasn't mine, but I did start with a clear head and an expectation it would take a long time, so just tackled it a section at a time. Pity other things cant be that way.

    Cheers

    Adrian
     
    oldman likes this.
  16. Cherie Whenan

    Cherie Whenan New Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Thornleigh, Sydney
    Found a great YouTube clip from Creative Engineering - 'Quarter light assembly by Creative engineering 1'. Step by Step photos which is great. Today our rubber ripped and so we are going to plan 'B'. You're right; Bloody awful fiddly job, but determined to get it together.
    Cheers,
    Cherie
     
  17. Weekender

    Weekender Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    460
    Location:
    Ashgrove
    Has any one had to replace the spring back handles on the opening qr glass windows? They seem to have those 2 rivets holding them in. I assume it would be necessary to remove the glass, and to do that, I suspect it would be necessary to remove the glass/frame from the window frame, so it could be "spread out" a bit.
    Then I further note I haven't seen window rubbers for the actual glass.

    Any one undertaken this task and could give some thoughts on what is required?

    Leo
     
  18. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,092
    Location:
    Seven hills
    If you want to remove the knob and lever section it is held on by a single roll pin. If you want to remove the hole thing including the S/S base section then yes you need to remove the hole thing (meaning) glass out and it would be easier the hole complete unit is out of the car. As the two rivets if original style are used are penned on. To then replace the rubber between glass and frame. Use of an inner tube rubber.
     
    Weekender and David H like this.
  19. Weekender

    Weekender Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    460
    Location:
    Ashgrove
    Thanks Wayne

    they are out of the car. And yes I see those 2 rivet pins. The glass in the frame looks like it is really going to be hard to remove - I would imagine if the you were replacing broken glass, easy enough. Any tips?

    Leo
     
  20. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,092
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Any tips on breaking glass;):eek::p no problems there.Oh you didn't want a smarty pants answer:eek::p .When I did the rear 1/4 windows glass out of frame ,used a rubber mallet and gave it a good tap on the metal ends of the frame. One tape at each end and continued back and forth at each end and it slowly come out. I'm hoping yours could be easier as yours has the tapered glass ,where mine being rear 1/4 is square and took a little longer to get the glass out of frame. Make sure you have some good padding down where you are working so the glass when comes out doesn't end up damaged :eek:.
     
    David H and Weekender like this.

Share This Page