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2 ltr type 4 engine re-build journey

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by rstucke, Jan 13, 2018.

  1. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    I haven't updated this thread in a while and figure it's time

    while the engine ran ok I expected a little more. I felt the carbies weren't right
    Spark plugs were black, power below 2500 was less than I expected and blitz drank more fuel than I thought appropriate.
    Idle screws were almost all the way in (needed smaller jets in the low speed circuit) which made checking plug colour for high speed running difficult.
    Anyway I wasn't going to buy a full range of jets (pretty dear) so I spent my money at JEGS in the states and bought a dual wide band oxygen sensor air fuel ratio gauge called FAST. Expensive and took 8 weeks to get here (not so fast)
    FAST.jpg

    It came with 22 feet of cabling, just enough to be able to fit the monitor up on the dash
    The Empi exhaust I have doesn't cross over so I can read the left and right carbs individually.

    So, time to modify the exhaust system to accept the oxygen sensors.

    IMG_0347.jpg
    IMG_0350.jpg

    While doing so found a problem that needed attention.
    While I spent a fair amount of time making this exhaust system fit properly I didn't check the transition from the heater box piped to the Empi exhaust
    Have a look at the step. This is the sort of thing that robs power and puts heat back up in the head.
    Vintage speed exhaust here I come (and I'll be doing this all over again)
    IMG_0350a.jpg
    IMG_0350b.jpg
     
  2. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Time for a band-aid till I get something I'm happy with

    IMG_0351.jpg IMG_0352.jpg IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0364.jpg IMG_0367.jpg IMG_0411.jpg IMG_0414.jpg
     
  3. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    The air fuel meter confirmed My suspicions Rich, Rich, Rich. Slow speed 10:1, full load 8.5:1 The jets that were set for the carbies to get me in the ball park weren't even close.
    main jets went from 130 back to 110 which has blitz at 12.8:1 under full load and an incredible increase in power.
    slow speed jets went from 52 to 50 (still to rich and are what the carbies come with out of the box) went to 45 because 47 are unobtanium from anyone I contacted. 45 was to lean around high speed cruise (17.5:1) so I put the 50's back in. 47's will be here from the states next week and I'll post up some pics then.
    I also noticed some spit back in the carbies in the form of a small amount of fuel (wet) around the bottom of the air cleaners, common at low engine rpm when 1 throat feeds 1 cylinder with a modified cam (more overlap) so I added some velocity stacks (not std on 40mm carbs with 28mm venturis) which fixed that situation but required 6 inch high air cleaners. They fit well in the engine compartment and don't foul anything. Another run showed that the ratios hadn't altered significantly and there was a small power increase as well although I may not need the 47's. It did answer the question that I had about the air cleaners being too small and causing the reason for the smaller jets caused by a low pressure area above the carbies (which wasn't the case)

    Disaster hit while doing run after run, in and out of the workshop. I was in a bit of a hurry because we were going up to Red Rock in Blitz the next day and I wanted to get the engine right. Backed into my ute AAAAAAAGHF##$@^%*******
    If you were within a 10km radius you would have herd some well chosen words. car alarms went off up and down the street and women and children ran for there lives.

    Anyway I'm over my hissy fit now and have spent the last few days bringing Blitz back to his former glory.
    I couldn't bare to take pics of the damage but did put some band-aids on the bruise.

    Here's the finished pics

    IMG_0439.jpg IMG_0441.jpg IMG_0445.jpg IMG_0448.jpg IMG_0450.jpg
     
  4. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,612
    Location:
    newcastle
    OW:(:(:(! Show us a photo of the ute;)! We know it's a possibility to get some damage in the life of our buses but that doesn't prepare us for the feelings we get if it happens:mad:.
    Looking A okay again & always nice to get a bit more power:D.
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,477
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Mongrel.
    Good job you have current spray practice sorted ;)
    Decent exhaust system might help lean and balance things a bit.
    Interesting now you have a good toy for the job to compare when you get a good muffler .
    Going equally length headers?
     
    rstucke likes this.
  6. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Nice work Rick. Bit of a shame about the incident with the ute.
     
  7. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,888
    Location:
    Goulburn
    thats awsome getting the AFR metering in. It makes life SOOO much easier having tthe right tools rather than just guessing....
     
    rstucke likes this.
  8. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Thinking about equal length that cross over (2 into ones). That puts the pulses 180 apart which would help scavenging and lower cylinder head temps
    Don't know if there's enough room for that without sticking out and looking ugly
    having said that, the bus has plenty of power now. last run between Ourimbah and Wyong on the m1 (very slight up hill grade) saw 140 kmh and not at full throttle
    The run back from Red Rock was mainly 110kmh (it's all freeway) oil temps steady at 115 don't know outside air temps but pretty warm
     
    David H likes this.
  9. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    That's how I saw it too
    Soon as I get it spot on Blitz is going to a dyno tuner in Sandgate to set up the 123 Ignition system in him.
    2 curves, one for 98 fuel, one for 95 fuel. Atm he's got a std bus curve for an svda dist
     
    cbus likes this.
  10. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS

    I can test your bus when I'm done with mine if you want Chris
    just need to make another end pipe for yours
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  11. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,477
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Was just thinking same on each side at least gets lengths a bit longer and similar.
    Doesn't fix the firing order issue but at least a part improvement then into a 4 to one.
     
    rstucke likes this.
  12. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS

    you mean like this


    [​IMG]


    I'm thinking this to get the pulses to work with each other

    [​IMG]
     
  13. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,477
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Was thinking these
    https://store.vintagespeed.com.tw/TYPE-4-CJ-HEADER-EQUAL-LENGTH-STYLE-p132821829

    Eventually will make my own then extend with the first pic above but with longer 4 into 1 converge and smaller outlet dia.

    What you have picked looks better but might be out back of van a bit and prone to fouling on road in some situations for my driveway . :)

    I need to ditch the heater boxes to balance up initial gas exit.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2019
  14. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,154
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    That would be awesome Rick :D
     
  15. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Catching up on posting photos

    The air/fuel gauge setup

    IMG_0452.jpg IMG_0453.jpg

    The 47 low speed jets went in and it made a noticeable difference to the mid range.
    I also backed the accelerator pumps right off then turned them in a turn at a time then revved the engine. When popping through the carby stopped I turned them in an extra 2 turns.

    Went up Thunderbolts Way to Armidale last weekend which tested the whole setup.
    Went really well till the last long (steep) pull that went forever with sharp corners.
    Ended up slowing for a corner and going into second gear where I could easily get to red line but after that 3rd gear was just too far away. So sat on just under 50kph at just over 4000rpm for a few kilometers which was a good test for the engine. The engine didn't complain and the oil temp stayed under 120 deg C.

    I'm going to re-graph the timing in the 123Ignition system on a dyno when I get Back From Kangaroo Island in a couple of weeks (not sure it'll make much difference).
     
    Mr Beckstar, Pisces and cbus like this.
  16. robmich

    robmich Active Member

    Messages:
    564
    Location:
    buff point
    Hi Rick how did you remove the long studs that hold the heads on from the case I have tried the 2 nuts locked together without success I have someone who can acid dip the case but the studs are in the way
    Rob
     
  17. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    The studs have friction fit threads and some sort of thread locking compound.
    Be careful or you could put a twist in them.
    I used a heat gun around the base (about 100 deg C). If the double nut (make sure they're as long as possible) doesn't work you might have to start with an eccentric stud remover but be careful as it can dig in and mark the studs which would bugger them (wrap something around the stud where the remover locks on)

    When I put my studs back in I used high temperature Loctite (can't remember the number but it's a green colour)
    What sort of acid are you going to dip the case in ?
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2019
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  18. deeksy62

    deeksy62 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    773
    Location:
    Sawtell
    Great thread and fantastic workmanship! Plus it did fill an hour today at work on a quiet Tuesday after Easter.

    Steve
     
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  19. Campervanstu

    Campervanstu Active Member

    Messages:
    89
    Location:
    PERTH, WA
    I know this is an old post so sorry for the late comments. I have opened up my heater boxes yesterday and they look similar to yours by way of corrosion. Can I ask what did you use for the insulation, I’ve looked all over the web and am not prepared to pay 100 bucks for 1 tiny piece. Did you use exhaust wrap? Is there an other options here that won’t break the bank??
     
  20. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,854
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    attachment 36923 in your post shows my photo of the exhaust wrap strips that I played inside the tin cover with hi temp silicone.
    You can see the roll the strips came off to the left.
    wasn't expensive from memory
    Motor cycle exhaust packing works. You can peel the sheets to whatever thickness you need.

    [​IMG]
     

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