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'63 11 window

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Mid West Dubber, Mar 27, 2012.

  1. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    While on school holidays during the year I wanted to get something achieved on the bus, so I decided to tackle the broken engine lid hinge mounts. Took a little longer than I had expected but it came up not too bad.

    A few shots to show the damage and what needed to be repaired...

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  2. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Started by cutting out, repairing and welding the hinge guide/ outside sections
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    Then I started to fabricate the sections for the inside. From factory the tapping plates are spot welded to the hatch. For adjustment purposes I decided to create a cavity for a tapping plate. The OG tapping plates were buggered so I made a couple of new ones...

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    Syncro27 likes this.
  3. old grey

    old grey Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    755
    Location:
    newcastle
    Nice one. I'll getting back to this step soon as I've gotta do something similar.
     
  4. brindog

    brindog New Member

    Messages:
    19
    Location:
    FNC, NSW
    Great work so far! Going to be following this thread closely
     
  5. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    About due for an update I think...

    So I got the engine hatch repair done ages ago, just forgot to post about it!! So here was the result with the repairs all welded in...

    These sections proved to be very fiddly but I got there eventually.
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    Syncro27 likes this.
  6. ruby6689

    ruby6689 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,422
    Location:
    Burnett Heads
    I would love to have the ability to weld and make replacement parts, well done.
     
    Miss Rosie and Syncro27 like this.
  7. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Front door hinge pin repair - Part 1

    I attempted to remove the left hand side front door pin using one of these Bob Drake hinge pin tools. Unfortunately I had no success and the shortest push rod from the tool snapped clean off and didn't budge the pin.
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    The driver's side (RHS) mirror stalk had been snapped off years ago so I decided to try the method of drilling the door pin out and then reaming to suit the oversize mirror stalks or hinge pin.
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    To make the drilling process easier I decided to remove the hinge from the door. The first step to remove the hinge was to drill out the factory rivets until the heads broke free and the rivet could be removed. I started off with a small hole and went up in size until the rivet head broke loose.
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  8. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Front door hinge pin repair - Part 2

    Pic of the rivets removed from the door
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    The next step was to mark out and cut two sections which would allow the hinge to be removed from the door. I used a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel to make the cuts. The sheet metal was then carefully peeled back and the hinge removed
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  9. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Front door hinge pin repair - Part 3

    I ground the top and bottom of the existing pin almost flush with the hinge surface then centre punched both ends so the drill bit would locate.
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    I then drilled out the pin, size by size until there was just a small layer of the pin remaining inside the shaft.
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    This pic shows the thin layer remaining inside the shaft
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    This step is where the dremel came in handy again. This time with a small tip grinding tool.
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    I used this little grinding tool to carefully grind out a small section of the remaining layer of the pin. This released the pressure from the pin and broke the rusted seal.
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    I could then use a small flat punch to drive out the remainder of the pin and leave the shaft inside the hinge untouched and undamaged.
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  10. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Front door hinge pin repair - Part 4

    A 5/16 drill bit was used to open the hole in both parts of the hinge
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    The 5/16 drill bit allowed the .3220" reamer (Purchased from Wolfsburg West) to accurately remove the remaining material and create a hole which would be spot on for the new oversize hinge pins/ mirror stalks.
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    Using the reamer in the drill press at a low speed
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    The new pin fitted through both parts of the hinge and was firm and moving freely. I used counter-sunk bolts and nyloc nuts to re-attach the hinge to the door. The hinge will soon be removed so I can sand blast and paint the cavity behind the hinge. The hinge can then be re-installed and the cuts I made can be welded and ground back.
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    Syncro27 and Grantus like this.
  11. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,671
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Love your attention to detail, and the method, taking the time to sort the best way of doing it just once, properly........excellent stuff! :)
     
  12. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,474
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    Nice work, a bit of well placed heat can often persuade parts that have been in situ a long time to move again, I've seen big nut that don't move with a six foot lever undone by hand after heating red hot then hosing off till stone cold......

    Looks like you have a nice shop with a bit of gear to plod away with.
     
  13. OSF

    OSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,110
    Location:
    Sutherland NSW
    Good on you Mid West Dubber. You are inspiring me with your detailed/quality approach. I'm probably 3 times your age with 1/3 of your skills. Keep at it and don't get sucked in to taking corners. All the time you put in now will be so worth it in the end and in so many more ways than you think.
     
  14. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Spent a little bit of time messing around with the tail lights for the bus last week.

    I've always been a fan of tail lights with a chrome bezel but I couldn't seem to find any apart from the all red US spec ones. I wasn't really all that keen on running the stock Red and Amber lenses with the painted silver style bezel built into the plastic.

    So, I decided I would just fit the chrome bezel over the lenses.... But when I had all of the parts, I realised it wasn't going to be that simple.

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    As you can see from this pic, the Hella lense is too large for the chrome bezel...

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    and the screw hole sticks out the back of the lense too far, not allowing it to sit flush...

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    I started by using the bezel as a guide and marking out how much plastic I needed to remove from the outside edge to ensure the bezel will fit over...

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    Having ground off the excess from the edges it was now time to remove the bulk of the screw hole so the lense would sit flush at the base...

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    The bezel now fits around the outside...

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  15. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    The next step was to counter sink the screw holes on the lense due to the counter sink on the bezel...

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    Because I had to grind so much off the edges of the lenses, I now had to space the lense back out to tack up the slack from the removed plastic. So I made up a spacer from a piece of alloy...

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    All screw together and satisfied with the result. Much nicer then the silver paint on the inside of the plastic.

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  16. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Got the tail lights finished off this weekend. I think they have turned out not too bad..

    Spacer made..
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    Grantus likes this.
  17. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,671
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    I can only imagine the cost, if someone asked you, "Can you knock me up a pair too?" :D
     
  18. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,666
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Don't mates rate apply here (Kombi club members rates):D

    I like the extra mile you are taking to make thinks fit and work .Wish the companies that make the tooling for these aftermarket parts went to the trouble you are to make them fit correctly in the first place. Make once fit once not make once modify twice to fit :mad:
     
  19. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC
    Bought a pile of rusty pop-out frames from the DOVW swap meet the other weekend as I would rather try repair originals then buy repo frames. Some would have looked at these frames and thought they were all beyond repair. Just proves that one mans trash is another's treasure...

    After studying the many rusted frames, I came up with an idea on how I could make these work for me. I will let the pics do the talking. Pretty happy with how the repairs are turning out.

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  20. Mid West Dubber

    Mid West Dubber Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Natimuk, VIC

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