Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Aug 28, 2012.
Take the drag link off and give the neighbours dog an enima.
Might be a stupid question, but how old and hard are those tyres?
Can you find the 4 digit DOT number on them?
And good to see in the final vid, you turned the device/ phone, horizontal to allow for a full screen image, on a computer, tablet or television.
Confirms w/a problem. Where was mum.
Start from the back not the front as front looks good enough to do the job. Back driving front still my view.
Still too much 'slop' in front tho' for wheel movement.
Can I see a photo of the bus from the rear down both sides with hub caps/ wheel/tyre centres lined up in the photo? Just want to check 'tracking'. One left side ..one right side.. & then one from a spot that's about 10 metres behind the bus ( as if you were the car following). & better if it was a video from the car following.
I'm no gambler but bet the centre of photo is not centre behind rear wheels.
I'm tipping that removing the drag link will definitely remove any play between the drop arm and the rest of the setup. However, I'm thinking it may not steer so well?
I'll see if I can get photos next time i'm at the van. However once I find a decent wheel alignment person - who I think I have - I will let them take care of that. My main concern for the moment is locating where that slop in the steering is coming from. It's actually worse when you're driving, compared to stationary. In the video the slop shows play of about 11 oclock to 1 oclock. you get an extra hour each side when driving.
I can't see anything that would account for play.
If the ' hand on joint with palm over joint and fingers on other rod' truck or listening for a click doesn't show an issue then there shouldn't be.
I suspect the sitting test is sidewall flex as Rick suggested.
Just move steering wheel lightly with fingertips and feel for resistance.
Natural that it will be worse when driving due to additional factors.
My suspicions still lie with my first comments of castor, camber, rear alignment.
Worth having done the joint check but expect a good alignment will give some answers and improvement.
Front suspension arms need checking for correct alignment.
Agree with all Ricks comments.
Especially possibility suspect of prev alignment.
I checked my bus this morning. The play is about the same as what was in your video 1 and 11 o'clock before I could see the rims twitching in the rubber.
The movement in the joints about the same.
My bus doesn't wander and if I take my hands off the wheel while driving (Like David suggested earlier) it tracks straight.
I think a full wheel alignment (front and back)by a competent vw savvy alignment shop is the go.
If you go that way I would be more than interested in the before and after data.
One thing, the inward and outward movement of the suspension arms (in and out of the beam) hasn't been mentioned.
Best checked on the ground, grab a front wheel and reef it in and out as hard as you can, there should be no movement or noise.
Hi all, thanks for looking at the videos - sorry about the poor quality filming, but hopefully you got the idea.
Proper wheel alignment is obviously next on the list! I'll book that in as soon as possible! Hopefully not this weekend, but the one after.
I still think it's strange though that the amount of movement up to the centrepin is lost after the centrepin.
Where there is play in the steering wheel, I can see the drop arm and the drag link moving about as much as the steering wheel is. But that movement isn't obvious the centrepin or tie rods. Is this normal that all parts in front of the centrepin would move more than the parts behind it?
If the person doing the wheel alignment is not a complete halfwit, he will be able to tell you if there is anything wrong with your suspension. Any decent steering specialist will check everything before doing an alignment. That's why you don't go to a tyre place.
Your point is a good one. I guess we will wait and see what they say.
The centre pin, as the name suggests, a solid pin. Going from memory, could be the clamps top and/or bottom aren't gripping the pin properly or have worn or stretched. That would give the symptom. I think they are a bolt that fits in to a depression in the pin. New pin but worn clamp/bolt would mean that there is some loss of steering effort through the area. Been a while since I have done one but the fact you changed the beam with no difference would fit as you would have used the same clamps.
Just a thought based on what you said:
"I still think it's strange though that the amount of movement up to the centrepin is lost after the centrepin.
Where there is play in the steering wheel, I can see the drop arm and the drag link moving about as much as the steering wheel is. But that movement isn't obvious the centrepin or tie rods. Is this normal that all parts in front of the centrepin would move more than the parts behind it?"
I'm pretty sure that a replacement bolt came in the kit. The pin was installed by the mechanic this time.
Good point about the bolt though, I will check it closer and also check that the torque on it is what it should be.
I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but....
Is the steering coupler - the reinforced rubber element that joins the steering column to the steering box - whole/not torn or cracked ?
Could account for lack of response to steering wheel movement......which would then transfer through to everything else....
Yep, it's the rubber is all good. No problems there - checked many, many times.
to be honest, I wasn't going back over the 13 odd pages to find out....
I notice but should make much difference, it looks like you have two left hand tie rods on that are adjustable at both ends. Instead of the right hand one being fixed at both ends and the left one adjustable at both ends.
You are correct - good spotting Tex!
However if anything, I imagine this would be related to wheel alignment, rather than play in steering.
Adjustable at both ends is a good thing. Especially if the suspension height is changed.
And at one stage the fixed were not available.
Been driving my bus around a little bit and I haven't replaced the Drag link or the split pin yet (need a ball joint remover, ordered one off ebay ) and I cant believe how firm it is on the road, hardly any wondering, was great on the highway.
They are harder to get but I still been able to get them. Some companies only sell adjustable as they are unable to get the fixed ones.
Separate names with a comma.