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A pillar repair bits

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by lawso21, May 9, 2018.

  1. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi
    I have just removed the whole front skin and purchased a new one however I am having trouble finding some way of replacing the outer skin of the A pillars eg just underneath the roof line to the bottom of the windscreen. Any advice would be great
    Thanks
    Adam
     
  2. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,555
    Location:
    newcastle
    Now you've set a challenge. See if bern has any cuts.
    Cheers
     
  3. 76kampa

    76kampa Active Member

    Messages:
    125
    Location:
    Perth
    I think there are 50 million people waiting for these very rust repair panels.... And yet no one makes them, only way it seems is to do it yourself.
     
    David H and Syncro27 like this.
  4. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi
    David H, the challenge is definitely on I will post some pics later. I have spoke to Bern he has some however they are also rusty, looks like I will have to try and make some
    Cheers
    Adam
     
    David H likes this.
  5. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,555
    Location:
    newcastle
    Probably your best bet;). They will be quite the challenge to make given the number of folds in a short distance but if the back edge is okay you're halfway home:p.
    Cheers
     
  6. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,738
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Of all the now available replacement parts for T1’s through to T3’s, (in various quality and price brackets), I’m surprised no one has picked up and made these “A” pillars, for a market that’s waiting! :confused:

    Just a matter of time I guess, but until then, it’s either find a solid cut from another bus, or go the custom / self fabrication.
     
  7. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    I've got this to look forward too. I've watched a lot of videos about panel fabrication over the last few years, yet to attempt that one though. Currently working on the roof of the Type 3 Squareback, that's bad enough.
     
  8. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi
    Just worked how to post pics again, here is a few of the task have embarked on, inner A pillars made and in need a bit of filler to finish off, took ages to get it done I don't have the necessary tools to make in one piece so had to go with piece by piece
    Cheers
    Adam
    IMG_0838.JPG IMG_0834.JPG IMG_0837.JPG IMG_0836.JPG
     
    chris taylor likes this.
  9. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,641
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    Luv it when someone makes a part from scratch and have it work the way you want it to, damn good stuff Adam . Not sure whether the filler will adhere to the paint though usually bare metal is required .But never mind im sure you will sort it, dont forget to spray the inside of the pillar with Penetrol .will help to prevent further rust intrusion.
    Chris T
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
  10. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi Chris
    Thanks for the kind words and advice eg filler and Penetrol, I realise this is going to take some time to complete, its great to get encouragement t keep me going
    Cheers
    Adam
     
    David H likes this.
  11. Marlyn

    Marlyn Active Member

    Messages:
    914
    Location:
    Eleebana / Newcastle
    Hey don't forget I'm always available for a beer and immoral support
     
    cbus, Grantus and David H like this.
  12. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,641
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    Is all good mate, as they say ,thats what this club is about, I did my r/h pillar a while back for the same reason, used lots of Penetrol , made a skin out galv sheet metal ,no rust showing through so is good.
    Cheers Chris
     
  13. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,921
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Maybe a bit late but the principle can be noted.
    Pillars are a very important area regards survival in a smash.
    Ensure you match original strength.
    Critical to ensure measurements for fitting windscreen as well.

    Staggered lap joins normal in such areas.
    Fully weld by stitching if necessary.
    Weld thru primer a good practice.
    Penetrol needs a few coats with at least 24 hrs in between to ensure coverage of sharp edges.
    My preferred would be 1 or2 penetrol then, after allowing up to a week for penetrol to dry, hit with tectyl 506 which has a heavier build.
    Available in aerosol cans.
    Or where there is access, clean welds mechanically or by blasting, phosphoric acid then removal with water/ dry with metho and compressed air, zinc epoxy primer, tectyl into hard to reach spots.
     
  14. volksdays

    volksdays Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    gold coast
    IMG_4019.JPG IMG_4020.JPG Make these all the time. Looked into getting die made to press these parts, but was to expensive ( even to make them out of a hard rubber to make a limited number ) you use to be able to buy the front nose cone with an upper section that went up and around the whole front screen ( wonder where that pressing is now ? )
    See "volksdaze" on Instagram as I'm doing another one today.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    wombatventures, David H, nils and 2 others like this.
  15. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi
    Thanks for the extra info, I am big believer in doing things right when it comes to safety, do it once do it right
    Cheers
    Adam
     
  16. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,641
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    Hi Col ,what is Tectyl and how does it work when used in conjunction with Penetrol. chris
     
  17. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,921
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Hi Chris.
    I have noticed that penetrol ,being thin, doesn't give enough film thickness on rough or angular surfaces.
    But I like its ability to penetrate and form a dry,recoatable film.
    3 coats with a 24hr intercoat dry time should work ok.
    An alternative ,better ? , to ensure encapsulation would be something like tectyl which gives a permenant build over 1mm.
    The aerosol may be thinner than the 4lt can so check dry film thickness.
    Advantage of the spray cans being lower viscosity it is useful without the penetrol if desired. ie I anticipate better capillary action than the 4lt version.?

    It lasts and protects better than items like fishoil and is easily removed if needed.

    Good quality lanolin, heavy duty lanotec, works well also . also remove able if needed.
    Have some on a rusty battery tray and no loss or change over 2 yrs.

    The critical point in our busses is penetration into seams and folds.
    Apply any of above on warm days to ensure low viscosity.

    Following sheets mention protection of clean metal but all products work well to protect rusty metal.
    I would use a rust converter like fertan if the area is rusted if not using penetrol first.
    Phosphoric acid is the alternative but ensure it is rinsed.

    https://qclubricants.com/tectyl_506.htm

    Repco charges around $30
    Supercheap $20.

    If buying over $99 you get free delivery.
    https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/valvoline-6174
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2018
  18. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,641
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    Thanks Col ,i do have some rust to take care of around the wheel arches and this seems to be the way to go .
     
  19. lawso21

    lawso21 Member

    Messages:
    563
    Location:
    Newcastle /Merewether
    Hi
    Couple of update pics on the front replacement, I managed to get the paint colour matched from Bunnings in a rust guard paint. I will get proper spray paint for the outer skin
     

    Attached Files:

  20. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    Good job. Nice feeling to get jobs moving.

    Volksdays - those a-pillars look good. Will assess mine and keep you in mind if they're too bad.
     

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