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Air cooled T3

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by vannin, Mar 30, 2011.

  1. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Hahah....no!
    But seriously has any one takled this problem, the are completely rotted so need full length.
    Nik
     
  2. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,632
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    I think you will need a donor Nik.

    I dont think they make gutter repair sections for T3's as yet.

    They are making lots of panels now though and the South Africans kept making them for many years so there should be a few potential donors around.

    Ring a few wreckers.
     
  3. Kombi Dad

    Kombi Dad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,457
    Location:
    Bungendore, NSW
    I spoke to Nick out at Volksparts in Bungendore today. You can give him a call on 0412 345 126 as he may be able to help with rust repair panels or at least cut some from one of his donors.

    Ian
     
  4. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Thanks I,l keep that in mind.
    I went to see a panel beater today (who dosnt fix rust anymore just in and out insureance jobs:( ) but he did say from what Ive described it is fixable without going to a new roof section.
    How are the poptops held on? There is large rivets at the front and rear but what holds the rest on? I removed the interior lights above the driver and passenger and the roof is rusted through about 2" up so I need to see how far around it goes.
    Any ideas on rust repairers in the maitland cessnock area?
    Nik
     
  5. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,625
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    Get Karstan to give you his contact from East Maitland.
     
  6. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,632
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Nik,

    The Discoverer and Trakka Pop tops are screwed along the front and rear and just glued to buggery along the sides.

    They take a fair bit of pursuation to get off from what I'm told due to all the glue and sealant.

    Its amazing water could get into yours and rust it so much - I have looked at many T3 early Discoverer Pop tops (ever since I wanted one) and even the one that lived within 1km of Coogee Beach had no sign of rot at all (it was an 85 model) even though it was always parked out in the weather.

    But as the Poms always say - everything is fixable.
     
  7. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    I think what caused it is on the front moulded section (like a luggage rack) there is two bungs not sure what the holes are for but 1 of the bungs is missing = cavity above the roof filled with water for a long time Id say.
    Its amazing the amount of non vw (or any camper for that matter) that try to talk me out of it "get a car and to a caravan"...they just dont get it!
    I had a look at just campers site I think I could build a whole new T3 but didnt see any gutters, ar there panels any good the price seems ok.
    Nik
     
  8. Kombi Dad

    Kombi Dad Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,457
    Location:
    Bungendore, NSW
    My camper roof has the two holes with no bungs. It does have drain holes near the front of gutter above the windscreen. The later Camper Industry conversions did away with the large holes and opted for two channels that run from about where the holes are to the outside. It may be worth considering such a mod when the top is off. I am too afraid to remove my roof as I think there would be rust in there but there is no sign of it externally. Maybe the drain holes did the work with no water lying on the original roof.
     
  9. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    If it does have drain holes they are covered by bog at the front.
    Ive started removing the headlining so I can remove the top. So far it looks promising its 99.99 % metal from the front seats back so it must just be the outside gutters that are rusted.
    I found screws all the way along going from the inside would these hold the top on?
    [​IMG]
    I was hoping to not have to comletely remove the headlining but it seems I,ll have to if I have to get to the screws.
    How do I seperate the join in the lining?
    [​IMG]

    I was going to have a go at getting it to run better but air cooled...Ive got no clue:eek: so until my manual arrives if anyone is out this way swing by and say hello (show me whats what)
    Nik
     
  10. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,632
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Those screws must hold the top on. I watched them install mine and they definately didnt use any screws along the side and my front roof only has the front drain channels that drain to the outside over the windscreen. There is definately lots of screws alongt he front and rear but none along the side.

    These were installed by different tradesmen so I would say yours must be side screwed as well. I would suggest removing all the headliner just to make sure you dont find any rust later on. Much safer.

    Good luck,
     
  11. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Whats the best way to get service parts?
    Genuine, local parts (supercrap etc) or online stores?
    I had a look around the engine but Its not much point looking when I dont know what Im looking at.
    Suposedly the choke is buggered but even when its warm it runs rough.
    Ive orderd a manual for it so hopefully some progress soon, and the father inlaw has found someone local that does rust repairs on kombis.
    Nik
     
  12. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,632
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    JustKampers has a lot of T3 stuff for engines - I'm not sure of the quality though.

    I had a look at some of my previous photos of my conversion and those screws were evident along the sides. They must screw into some timber reinforcing along the sides. Hence to remove the roof I would suggest they will all need to be removed.
     
  13. Terrordales

    Terrordales Active Member

    Messages:
    4,679
    Location:
    Earth
  14. NZVWNUT

    NZVWNUT New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Auckland, New Zealand
    I love the colour of your van! Does anyone know if those vented side windows can be bought anywhere? I would love those for my 83. Also, one of the posts someone mentioned that the fibreglass area of the roof fills with water - is there a fix for this as my Trakka also does this.

    Great van purchase - go the Orange!
     
  15. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Yeah the orange is starting to grow on me.
    Ive got some more done today, the interior is stripped almost bare to get it ready for the rust to be cut out.
    [​IMG]

    I managed to get the headlining out, for those that havnt done this arounnd the front doors and along the join between the front and rear is a little tricky, I gently opened up the metal channel the lining pushes into and it slides out.
    [​IMG]

    After several tries and looking for screws the rear view mirror twists out and the bows for the lining bend down and out of the locating holes.
    [​IMG]
    Nik
     
  16. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    I got the engine running a little better as well. One of the vacuum hoses had holes in it so Id replaced it with a piece of brake booster hose but it didnt seal properly.
    To see if the rough running was just the vacuum leak I wrapped the original hose in duct tape and refitted it, now the engine runs better although it dosnt sound quite right (but I am new to air cooled) so I,ll wait for my manual and try again.
    While Im waiting Im going to tidy up the grill its been painted and is flaking off whats the best way to clean it up before painting again?
    Nik
     
  17. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    I made a start today on cleaning up the grill, someone has painted over the original so its all flaky. I didnt want to go too course sandpaper but I,ll be there forever with fine stuff. Is there a paint stripper that wont harm plastic?
    Maybe Im better buying a new one?
    Nik
     
  18. Terrordales

    Terrordales Active Member

    Messages:
    4,679
    Location:
    Earth
    Try Callintons Paint & Varnish Remover.
    If it's still available.:umm:
    Non caustic, I used it when I did a furniture restoration course some years ago. So safe you didn't even need gloves or masks.
     
  19. kombijon

    kombijon Member

    Messages:
    747
    Location:
    Perth, WA
    if the paint on the grill is flaking off, use a high pressure jet washer, the rest will just blow away. works for me, but it didnt work on the trailer even tho i tried!
     
  20. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,625
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    Buy a new one
     

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