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Aloha 71 lowie reno

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Richard Bickle, Sep 11, 2021.

  1. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Hi all. Just new to this but as i start the process will need to ask a few questions from the group
    So here goes
    1. Tried getting rear engine door off seems to be a few philips head but cannot budge .. any advice tricks ,?? before i get the drill
    2. My panel guy wants to acid dip the entire body less all panels etc but is it possible? Since the body and chassis cannot be separated .. what about the running gear . I assume that all needs to go first ?
    Thanks ill post pics here when there is progress
     
  2. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,350
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Try soaking the engine door bolts / screws with WD40 or similar, for 24 hours, then use an impact driver, to crack the ceased threads.
     
    tintop likes this.
  3. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Thanks yes ill give a try.. think my makita not enough grunt too
     
  4. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Also gravity is against me.
     
  5. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,350
    Location:
    Southern ACT
  6. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,525
    Location:
    Seven hills
    As mentioned above first, also if the Philips head is buggered from trying to loosen it, I sometimes tighten it first as it may be enough to crack the seal on the threaded screw. Once the seal is broken try and loosen it straight away. If this fails the heavier equipment need to come out.

    If you plan on acid (chemical )dipping, you have to strip the car clean of every component on the car, down to shell only. As acid dipping is going to eat everything, including the body (rust) leave you with well hopefully some kombi left for you to rebuilt.
    There was a Kombi club member in Victoria that done his double cab kombi in this manner. I find the link and add it hear for you to have a look. From post #12 he mentions " going off to get it dipped"
    http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/starting-my-restoration-of-a-1975-dc-bowie.56330/
     
  7. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Thanks wayne, ill keep you posted. Seems the process went well however he mentioned dipping twice and some extra holes to allow chemical to flow but I'm getting ahead of my self. Still stripping. Taking all glass out next tues

    Question,,, are the little quarter windows worth saving ? Reusing? i love the look of them and mine actually work but the frames are all rusty and obviously they must have been leaking as there is a ton of hot melt around them still that style was a classic back then i remember my dad had them on some old car can't remember what.. maybe a BM but i still remember pushing them right around so the air just flowed in .. those were the days when no ac was fitted .. lol
     
  8. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    And thanks grantus too very helpful
     
  9. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,525
    Location:
    Seven hills
    You revering to the rear 1/4 windows.
    This all does depend on you. If you like them you can put them back in. You can get most of the parts know in Aluminium instead of steel, and reuse what you can salvage from what you have. Which that's what I did on my DC build, rebuilt what I had and replaced what was beyond repair. 1/4 window rubber getting a good one that fits was more of a problem then anything else. I went through 3 different ones before I was happy.
    You can get new complete rear 1/4 windows, just be seated when you see the price.:eek: Have heard they fit well. I still reckon they are a pain to install.(swear jar needed).
    On my 72 microbus (avatar photo) I replaced with sliders, if I had the choice I would put sliders in but this is a personal choice.
    Post 39 on 1/4 windows being painted etc.
    http://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/my-72-dc-jigsaw-puzzle.53854/page-2
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2021
    Wiz likes this.
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,442
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Welcome.
    Heat is also a good screw/ bolt loosened if you have a concentrated source.
    Cherry Red then cool.
    Otherwise 6mm or 8 mm drill bit should release head then often the shaft will unscrew with multigrips.

    Yep. Everything off for dipping.

    Big job ahead to break job into sections to protect the brain. :)
     
    oldman likes this.
  11. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,849
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Quarters can get real expensive to rebuild.
    If the frames are rusted there is a good chance there is rust underneath in the body.

    I have just replaced all the window rubbers in my bay and I replaced the flippers with original sliders from a 77 + bay.
    You can get aftermarket and Brazilian but they look a bit different and the aftermarket can be a bitch to seal up properly.
    I replaced the rear driver with a solid glass just like the 77+ had. You can get a slider for here but it will be a mix of styles if you go for OG sliders.

    You can see what I did here

    https://forums.kombiclub.com/threads/my-bay.58941/page-6
     
  12. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Thanks all. Yep. Looked at those links. Ill what state they are when they come out and decide later. But i do like the quarters. Just saying
     
    Barry likes this.
  13. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Hello all I got the rear door off thanks for that !
    All glass coming out today so ill take the remaining doors etc off after that
    Questions
    1. What is this thingymagig? See pic
    2. Any idea how to get at these little suckers located in the rear door catch see pic
    Thanks

    20210913_203425_resized(1).jpg

    20210913_203447_resized.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 17, 2021 at 6:39 AM
  14. Wiz

    Wiz Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    392
    Location:
    Near Ballarat
    I reckon its a wigwam for a goose's bridle - very popular in the '70s.
    PR
     
  15. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,808
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    flux capacitor
     
  16. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,808
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    actually it's the solinoid for a second battery (disconnects it from the charging system and starter battery when the engine is turned off)
     
    Barry and oldman like this.
  17. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,849
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Should be in "who remembers"

    Well done Rick
     
    Wiz and oldman like this.
  18. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,483
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    I thought it might have been some sort of relay from another era…..
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  19. Richard Bickle

    Richard Bickle Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    Narrabeen, NSW
    Wow you guys are the best
     
  20. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,525
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Your second photo of the rear catch, previous owner has talent. They normally have a Allen head countersunk metal thread m8x20 . They have managed to put nut and thread rod /bolt fix. Spray some WD40 and see if it comes loose. It may have a bolt on the inside door cavity ,in which case you need some sockets on both side to undo it.
     

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