Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by Wolf River, Dec 22, 2016.
Might as well, if he owns a $yncro he had better get used to it
Could have dropped a valve seat that's a air cooled issue but sounds awful too do a comp test
I thought the oil you talked about was on the spark plugs too.
Pull the spark plugs and see what they are like. look for fresh oil on the plugs that would indicate worn piston rings.
From your description it doesn't sound as bad now. Maybe a lifter taking a while to pump up. The lifters can be very rattly before they pump up. It sounds like a solid lifter with 15 thou of slack in it, like a small hammer being beaten on the side of the engine 400 times a minute (the cam and valve system runs at half the speed if the crankshaft).
Having said that, the lifter won't make the engine choke out when you rev it.
Have you checked the connections to the AFM? I found my engine would idle very poorly and over fuel like crazy but not rev when I'd forgotten to plug the AFM back in after cleaning the air filter.
Think I could geab those from you some time Phil? I'll model them up and see if it is worth while getting say 10 sets made up at a tube bender. I think if we could get them around the $250 aussie mark no one would have an excuse anymore
Compression felt good turning motor by hand so I got my son to turn over the motor with the key, there was a metallic 'clack' but then it turned over and started, sort of.
It felt like it was only running on two or three cylinders but no more metal on metal noises... just running real rough. It takes a bit of cajoling to get it to start and when it does it dies unless I am playing with acceleration.
It feels like how it ran when timing was way off but how could timing suddenly go right off?
I pulled plugs and they do look a little bit oily, especially on the left side (where I originally thought/felt issue was stemming from).
But surely if a ring was gone it would be blowing smoke?
The AFM is connected but there are two loose wires that do not seem to connect to anything (see images)????
I'd be in for two sets, Nils.
I'd be in for a set at that sort of price. I object to paying the $700 odd that Australian suppliers seem to be charging
the blue one may go to the thermostat housing temp 2 semsor.
First wiring appears to be for the Diff Lock. Second Temp sensor maybe?
I bought mine a few years ago from JK -UK, before they opened over here. Pretty sure it was around $400ish landed? They are $469 (+freight I guess?) on there now, no way I'd pay more than that...
Tell them they are dreaming.
Oops I was looking at the early t3 32mm pipes... Yeah what Phil said^
I've got a set of plastic pipes at my place, save the trip to Phil's. I just changed out my sons with full length stainless I bought from Vintage VeeDub for $350. Admitedly, they had had them in stock for a long time. Bugger to fit, yep, but not impossible!
Worth noting the asking price of the plastic ones, as they are no longer available, as a comparison to Wattie's SS ones he had made.
The stainless pipes need to be cut in 2 to allow easy fitting. Thats how the main sellers JK, vancafe, Gowesty sell them
After seeing the oil on the left side plugs I popped it on the back of a car trailer and hauled it up to my mate's place in Maroochydore.
He's retired but still fiddles and believes the motor was cooked. Even if it only a head issue I would prefer to do a total rebuild now rather than later as it likely would need it soon anyway with almost 300k on the clock (I will work on it with my mate).
On another note, my mate suggested that rather than put a decoupler in at huge expense, why not put in locking hubs?
Anyone done this?
It would require getting out of the vehicle to lock the hubs when 4wd is needed, but so what?
Yeah, that's what I said in an earlier post. I can't imagine putting entire pipes in. With plastic you have a bit of flexibility but not steel.
You must have uttered a few choice words putting your son's in, Jed.
I really think that it be very expensive and probably impossible.
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