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broken valve?

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by Wolf River, Dec 22, 2016.

  1. grumble

    grumble Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,373
    Location:
    Taree
    That is good if you have the equipment and know what you are doing after a lot of years in the trade and rectifying problems caused by "my mate knows everything and he's cheap" usually ends up costing 2 or 3 times the original repair needed. But do what you feel is right. Good Luck.
     
    Grantus likes this.
  2. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,622
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Thanks for the correction Phill. ;)

    I'm not fully sure of which tasks the ECU does or doesn't manage. ;)

    (Obviously the engine running is it's main task, but a faulty original Triumph Adler one, that was in the bus since new, caused my tacho needle to bounce wildly under 12oorpm, yet behave anywhere above 1200. When replaced with a used Bosch ECU, the tacho has worked perfectly since.)
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  3. Dapom

    Dapom Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    788
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I took the advice from here and replaced all braided earth straps with new cable type. If nothing else it's peace of mind knowing that they're definitely 'right'. I learnt the long way how important good earths are ;)
     
  4. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,288
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    That was a factory recall along with the pink coil. They must have been a bad ECU as I have a dead one here.
     
  5. Wolf River

    Wolf River Member

    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Gold coast
    I have replaced all the sensors but the temp level is still all over the place. :confused:

    Then my son called from Germany and asked me to sell the Kombi for him so I listed it on Gumtree.
    This morning a chap from Brisbane came and looked at it this morning (first time it has been running for over a month) and there is now a fairly steady drip coming from near the water pump. I checked the water level and it was pretty much empty :eek:
    He had just repaired the water jacket seals in his Caravelle and told me this type of leak is very common in T3s. It also sounds like a big job, something I simply don't have time for in the foreseeable future.
    Anyone had experience with this issue?
     
  6. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,046
    Location:
    Gosford
    Yes had it done twice, IF everything comes apart without breaking a head stud And goes back together without breaking a head stud it is straight forward job for a competent VW mechanic and it is normally done while engine is still in the van. and it is a $1500 job. If your choice of mechanic claims it is a big job requiring the engine to be removed get another mechanic. However other problems are often detected ie the exhaust nuts/bolts will most likely need to be cut off to get the exhaust off. condition of heads could also be a problem as a good mechanic will inspect & report on the condition of valves/seats & lifters etc. BUT don't be scared as this job if runs smooth is almost like routine maintenance.
     
  7. Wolf River

    Wolf River Member

    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Gold coast
    Thanks LuckyPhil.
    I'm gonna put it on the market for him anyway as is and if no-one wants to buy it I will do it myself and possibly get that decoupler installed while I'm at it :)
    Did that $1500 include new seals?
    The chap today said he liquid welded the head coz it was pitted and if pitted too bad would need new heads at $750 each?
     
  8. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,046
    Location:
    Gosford
    Yes that was including all parts & coolant. Liquid weld I guess he did JB Weld which is a common fix but yes if heads are no good it can be expensive. The block can also suffer from pitting. Has it always been run on the correct coolant.
     
  9. Wolf River

    Wolf River Member

    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Gold coast
    As far as I know. When I bought it there was a bottle of German coolant in the van but it only had water in it.
     
  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,622
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Even with correct coolant, the added tap water is the corrosive bit............ as I found out. :(
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  11. Wolf River

    Wolf River Member

    Messages:
    95
    Location:
    Gold coast
    So... to prevent this you have to use distilled or tank water?
    I think, from memory, that tank/rain water is less acidic than town/tap water. My son was using Gold Coast tap water to top it up before we fixed the leak by replacing the pipes (or thought we had fixed it anyway) while I was using tank water so I guess it will be a lucky dip as to how corroded the heads are.
    :confused:
     
  12. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,288
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Australia is probably the only place in the world that puts tap water in radiators/batteries/irons.

    People need to read their owner's manual.

    Tank water may not be good either. It could be acidic. Dam water has chlorine.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2017
  13. hairyman

    hairyman Active Member

    Messages:
    410
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    You can get distilled water cheaply and easily in IGA or Supercheap Auto or any of the rest. Putting tap water in just seems like a recipe for disaster.
     
  14. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,288
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Or Woolworths or Coles.
     
  15. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,046
    Location:
    Gosford
    But water is more expensive than petrol :)
     
  16. hairyman

    hairyman Active Member

    Messages:
    410
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    But it's still cheaper than a head stud :p
     
    syncro likes this.

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