Bullbar Fitting?

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by LEVI, Jan 6, 2018.

  1. LEVI

    LEVI New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Coorparoo, Brisbane
    Hi

    I’m in need of a bit help. I’ve recently purchased this front bullbar and honestly don’t have the faintest idea on how to fit it to my bus/if it is even compatible. Our Bus is a 73 tin top and believe the bar came off a 74 model.

    It came with 2 plates with bolts welded through it and another 2 bolts with 6mm steel welded to the top.

    Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

    Thanks
    0D7B5FFF-B0D4-4EB3-9C04-62890E042FCC.jpeg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 7, 2018
  2. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    17,287
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Get a couple of mates around to help hold the bullbar up so you can see how it fits against the chassis rails @ the front of the kombi - picture a bit small to really gleam too much from.

    Expect it'll need some drill done on the rails to mount it.

    Should have no issues from a '73 to '74 mounting position(s)

    Cheers
    Bert
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,432
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Looks like its been bastardised a bit.
    Cross bar at base looks like a cut from a tow bar?
    Normally the vertical pipes bend to go under and to the rear.
    From the pipes underneath there would be vertical lengths of flat to reach chassis.
    The 2 bits of 45x8? flat shown in foreground look like they are for that purpose.
    Or the smaller could be a plate for front bolt.
    Front lower crossbar probably bolts thru compression panel behind bumper.
    At very least I would be checking quality of weld where uprights join lower cross member.
    Beef them up if necessary as they take a big load in a hit.
    Some solid tabs of flat off the verticals going along the Chanel in bumper to existing boltholes will help.

    Mounting point for spare wheel looks wrong for boltholes to take wheel.

    Being non stock I think Bert's suggestion of sitting in place and determining fix points makes sense.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2018
    Sahara Hilton likes this.
  4. Sahara Hilton

    Sahara Hilton Member

    Messages:
    45
    Location:
    Canberra
    We have not fitted a Bull Bar, although I did buy one, intending to do so.
    You mention bolts with a 6mm bar welded on.
    I had Four such tee-shaped bolts; None were welded into the Bull-Bar itself
    ...
    IF that welded-on bolt is in the shape of a 'T' with its thread down the T-vertical, then after my
    jacking-up the centred Bull Bar under the van front, it became evident that the body's sub-frame
    box-section 'rails' had to be drilled through from underneath*, and then using 'magic' (? !!) I'd have to get
    (in my case, all four) each T-shaped bolt inside the box-sections, & get the thread out and down, line up
    the Bull Bar and raise it, and then with the T-bolt preventing from turning by the 6mm steel atop the bolt,
    fit and secure spring washers and nuts on those (four) bolts.
    ( *that drilling-up needed a good working clearance under the van.)
    There is an access hole in the box-section, but the prospect of getting four T-bolts inside, seemed v. hard.
    ..
    I came to the (cautious) conclusion that the whole shebang being bolted-upwards (with the special bolts
    inside a box-section) seemed to me inherently unsound. AND worst-case, to imagine my trying to re-secure
    it if any nut came loose/lost (at night in pouring rain in the middle of the Nullarbor in the mud), was therefore
    a no-go for us.
    (I decided against welding the bar up to the box-sections, as another possible way of doing it.)
    Not fitting that bar saved its excess weight too.
    ..
    I accept that Splittie and Bay crashability is compromised (compared to current ADRs/construction).
    A Bull Bar does not necessarily improve a van's crashability, however, i.m.h.o..
    ...
    Aside - anyone interested in buying a Bay's bull-bar. (Fitted at least once** ?? - But never by me.)
    ** God knows how anyone could ever retrieve those four unbolted T-bolts from inside the box-section.
    ..
    Good luck with all that ..
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2018
  5. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,285
    Location:
    newcastle
    Or a lot:mad:. It's not a 'standard' bar so will be interesting?

    Fully support this comment (with beers) & your mates support of the bar to get a 'feel' for how it may mount & what is needed. Firstly check that horizontals of bar match with sub frame;). Then look for 'spacer' need for the horizontals to subframe so verticals clear bumper.

    That bar looks like it had a 'block' under sub & 2 mounts to sub & nothing up front:rolleyes: around the front bumper?

    Originally they had a right angle section hanging off the upside of the underside of the bumper going to some vertical lugs off the horizontal part of the bar. The bumper cracked under the load over time:(.

    Good Luck,
    Cheers
     
  6. Blunderbus

    Blunderbus Active Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    St Helena, Melbourne .
    The bar i took off my bus has a length of angle iron bolted to the bottom of the bumper and the bull bar bolted to the angle iron, then it used the front suspension mount bolts to hold the rear of it with longer bolts.
     
  7. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    402
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Here are the bits that came with mine. I’ve been trying to dig out a photo of up underneath but nothing which is weird because I thought I took a thousand photos at the time.

    Anyway, mine is different to yours, but you might find something useful in it. This is one of the incarnations of the VW Campmobile factory roo bar which I believe was used from around 1975 through to 1979. I think the earlier ones had a different spare wheel mount but not sure on that.

    The angle piece that bolts to the bumper bar is attached to the bent tubes on the left of photo. That whole assembly is of those three parts is basically upside down in the photo.

    The piece in the foreground bolts between the chassis rails.

    The two bent tubes on the left have a drilled flat plate at the end that bolts to the chassis rail piece.

    The roo bar then slides into the two vertical tubes of the bent tubes.

    Need to bolt everything up loosely before inserting the roo bar into the two bent tubes. Otherwise, you’ll probably find the roo bar tubes won’t line up with the bent tubes.

    I had to use a bunch of spacers and slot most of the holes so the roo bar was fitted at the right height and level.

    D46F5614-D816-4466-8913-92EF727D6002.jpeg

    In this photo, you can just see the angle piece bolted up under the front bumper.

    6EBD39EF-7D31-4FFF-9EB9-E5191D02468F.jpeg
     

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