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Changing Front Disk Brake Pads

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by Rev., Oct 21, 2007.

  1. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    Got some time today to replace the pads on the front discs on my 1975 camper. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought.

    Once you remove the front wheel, remember to loosen the wheel nuts while the wheel is still on the ground – they are a lot easier to loosen with the wheel on the ground. With the wheel off you should see something like this.

    [​IMG]

    To change the pads you need to remove the two pins that hold them in place. This will take a hammer and center punch. I couldn't find my punch so I used the flat end of an old drill bit and hit the pointed end.

    Hitting the pin
    [​IMG]

    Removing top pin
    [​IMG]

    Both pins out
    [​IMG]

    Note: The fluid mark on the bottom pin was a squirt of WD40 as the pin looked a little rusted and wasn't coming out as easy as the top pin.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 27, 2017
  2. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    With the pins removed, taking out the old pads required a little help from a screw-driver. I also used a hammer for leverage.

    [​IMG]

    With the old pad half-way out I was able to wriggle it out the rest of the way.

    I did the same with the second bad.

    There were also two metal spacers (not sure what else to call them) between the pad and caliper which I put back in with the new pads.

    [​IMG]


    This the difference between the old pads and the new.

    [​IMG]



    Putting in the new pads required pushing back the pistons which I did with a large screw-driver. I used the wooden handle of my hammer to protect the disk. Not sure if this is the way you are meant to do it but it worked for me.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    With the old pads out and the pistons pushed back it was an easy task putting in the new pads.

    [​IMG]

    Don't forget to put the metal clip back in that sat between the two pins.

    [​IMG]

    I put the bottom pin in first with a a few taps of the hammer and then put the above clip in before replace the top pin.

    And that's it. Shouldn't take any longer than around 30 minutes.

    Do the same on the other side and your done. All that is left to do is bleed the brakes.
     
  4. ttmck

    ttmck Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,733
    Location:
    Hallett Cove STH AUS
    another sticky well done !!
     
  5. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    Just the bleeding to go! - I'll post that as well to complete the brake overhaul.

    Rev.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 27, 2017
  6. jae

    jae New Member

    Messages:
    363
    Location:
    Ashgrove, Brisbane
    One thing i would add to this would me to make sure that the brake fluid reservoir isn't 100% full before pushing back the pistons as there's a chance it could over flow when fluid is pumped back in. Or was I the only one silly enough to get this wrong?
     
  7. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Another good tip is unless you are cleaning out the entire sealed brake system don't pump the pedal to the floor when you bleed the brakes cause if the is any crap in the brake fluid reservoir then it will make it's way into the system and can make it all go to hell in a hand basket. Bummer if you are in a hurry and don't have the time to then rectify the new problem created.

    Passed onto me as a tip but very experienced motor mechanic who has spent a lot of time working on old cars. Not a prob 99% of the time but when you need it to go smoothly is the time it will happen.

    Cheers Alex:D
     

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