Changing Rear Brake Pads

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by Rev., Oct 16, 2007.

  1. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    Decided to change the rear breaks pads and this is how I went about it.

    You will need two sets of shoes, two wheel cylinders, and a break kit which includes new springs and clips. I also decided to replace the drums as well. Everything is available from The Buss Stop.

    Rear brake shoes set of 4 complet $80.00
    Rear wheel cylinders, German $28.00 each
    Rear shoe fitting kit for two wheels $30.00
    Rear Drum $125.00 each

    After removing the rear wheels and the two small nuts holding the drum in place you should be able to remove the drum and reveal the rear shoes and wheel cylinder. My 75 bus looks like this.

    [​IMG]

    Firstly I disconnected the hand break cable from the hand-break so that the cable was slack enough to remove from the hand-break lever attached to the shoes in the drum. There are two cables (one for each rear wheel) that are attached to a bracket by two square nuts coming from the hand-break towards the front of the bus, just in front of the steering arm. Mine looked like this..

    [​IMG]

    Next I removed the cable from the hand-break leaver inside the drum...

    [​IMG]

    Then I loosened off the rear shoe's via the adjusting stars at the bottom of the drum so that the pads where as lose as possible. I sprayed some WD40 on the stars so they would turn easier. You want to wind the stars so that the pads move to the center.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    Next I removed the bottom spring that holds the two shoe's together with a pair of pliers.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With the break cable and bottom spring removed I was able to remove the shoes by pulling them from the adjusting adjusting screws at the bottom and and then out of the wheel cylinder at the top. The pad's came out with the spring at the top and the bar between the shoes still attached.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    With the shoe's off you will need to remove the break-lever from the shoe (so you can attach it to the new one) by removing the c-clip that holds the lever onto the pad. I used a screw-driver to open the clip and then a small hammer to remove it.

    [​IMG]

    There is a new c-clip in the break kit to hold the break-lever onto the new shoe. I closed it with a pair of vice-grip pliers

    [​IMG]


    Replacing the wheel cylinder involves removing the break line, which is the metal tube that goes into the back of the wheel cylinder with a nut on the end, and undoing the nut that holds the wheel cylinder onto the break drum (it's the larger nut under the break line). Undo the break-line first other wise the the wheel cylinder turns when you try to undo the break-line.

    [​IMG]

    With the break-line and nut removed the wheel cylinder should pull out.

    [​IMG]

    Replace the wheel cylinder, and attach the break-line and nut. Be careful not to cross-thread the break-line.
     
  4. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    To fit the new break shoes (with the break lever attached) I attached the new spring with coils to the back so that the ends of the spring came through the front. Replaced the metal bar that sat between the top of the shoes, the bigger slot in the bar fits over the break-lever (don't forget the metal clip that goes over the bar and clips onto the spring).

    I then stretched the shoes over the hub and put the bottom ends into the adjusting stars and then to the top of the shoes into the wheel cylinder – you may need to adjust the slots on the wheel cylinder so they line up with the shoes.
    One of the last things to do is replace the bottom spring, which I found a little tricky, but eventually got it. Then I put the break cable back on the break lever – did the same on the other side and then fixed the brake-cable's back onto the hand-break at the front of the bus.

    Rear shoes replaced.
    [​IMG]

    Run out of the time to do the front pads and bleed the breaks – but will post when I do.

    Rev.
     
  5. Mike_76T2

    Mike_76T2 New Member

    Messages:
    153
    Location:
    Belair, Adelaide
    Awesome picto-tutorial. Thank you. :)
     
  6. ttmck

    ttmck Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,783
    Location:
    Hallett Cove STH AUS
    well done rev good description and great photos made this a sticky so all too see !
     
  7. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Great thread !!!

    I am a visual/hands on learner so the pics help a great deal for me. This will be another job I will feel happy to give a go in the future.

    Now I just need to find one for CV joints!

    Cheers Alex
     
  8. Rev.

    Rev. Active Member

    Messages:
    1,435
    Location:
    Eastwood NSW
    Hi Alex

    Glad the post was helpful. I figure we are all learning here and sharing what we know or learn ourselves can only make the world a better place.

    Rev.
     
  9. ttmck

    ttmck Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,783
    Location:
    Hallett Cove STH AUS
    good on you rev. once again , i wish more people would share their little projects .
     
  10. ick72

    ick72 New Member

    Messages:
    374
    Location:
    western sydney
    Started doing mine using this but I'm stuck now due to wrong parts supplied
     
  11. lachie

    lachie Member

    Messages:
    159
    Location:
    terranora
    if the wrong shoes then just use the old ones until you get the right ones.
    wrong wheel cylinders- better to renew especially if leaking.
     
  12. Roo

    Roo Active Member

    Messages:
    309
    Location:
    Riverina
    Can you buy cylinders for splits at the busstop also?
     
  13. vassy69SC

    vassy69SC Active Member

    Messages:
    994
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Nice run through

    One of the best things you can do to make your life easier is to wire brush the threads on the adjusting star threads and put some anti-sieze on them before re-install.
     
  14. ick72

    ick72 New Member

    Messages:
    374
    Location:
    western sydney
    Classic replace all the sto g supplied stuff and it went back in just ran out of light till morning for the adjust and bleed
     
  15. nomadic

    nomadic New Member

    Messages:
    12
    Location:
    Bellbrook NSW
    Terrific thread, as many of them are on this site. One problem I've just identified though is that on the brake pads I have just removed from my 77 bus the hand-brake lever attached to the brake shoe looks like a permanent fixture. There is no clip holding the lever to the shoe so I'm sitting here scratching my head about how to remove it, given the new shoes don't come with the lever attached to them. The strangest thing is that I know I have done this job a couple of times before so I can't understand why I haven't run into this problem before now. Any thoughts on how to remove the lever from the old shoe and get it onto the new shoe(s) would be greatly appreciated.
     

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