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Crankshaft end float

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by BrissyGeorge, Jul 11, 2017.

  1. BrissyGeorge

    BrissyGeorge Active Member

    Messages:
    318
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hi,

    After getting my Ute serviced the other day my mechanic tells me that there is too much end float - way to much. He didn`t measure it but when you pull on the fan, back and forth there could be at least 1 - 2mm of movement. The rattle it makes I always took to be just a VW sound. Like everything, once you are alerted to something you suddenly can`t stop hearing it. Plus, if I roll slowly down a hill in neautral and apply the brakes, the sound stops - my logic being that the crank shaft then moves forward against a shim and stops rattling(?)

    So..................I understand the fix - everything being equal, engine out, split the case, crank out, insert new spacers and back together - bingo........ BUT........... all that work for a $10? spacer/shim:(

    This is where project creep starts - seeing its apart you may as well ........... While I understand the logic of this, financially now is not the time for me to recon the engine - ie north of $3K(ish), assuming the case is ok.

    Is an option to only do the bottom end if the crank shaft and bearings are looking a bit worn, leaving the top end till a later date? From what I understand, new pots/pistons and heads can be done without dropping the engine.

    BTW, the engine is 2L and is running well - plenty of power, no smoke

    I would value you thoughts, esp if you could put a guestimate cost to it as well.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,158
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    mmm............... wrong

    IF it is the crank moving back and forth shimming it up is a bandaid fix
    I am a type 1 person and gathering this is a type 4
    I am unsure if the fan can come loose

    So - if the crank IS moving back and forth 2mm - that is 80 thou - 7 thou is the limit

    That bearing fave is FLOGGED................ no amount of shimming will fix it
    If it is flogged badly back and forth I will be surprised if the up/down tolerances are not out as well

    You need to get another opinion on that end play
     
  3. BrissyGeorge

    BrissyGeorge Active Member

    Messages:
    318
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks Barry,

    Can you do a bit of a Pauline Hanson on this and help me out please, (yes it is a type 4).

    When the block is split - I assume the crank and bearings are mounted in one half?
    When you say the bearing face is flogged, do you mean the bearing shell(replaceable) or the stand that the bearings are housed in - 2 halves - if this is the case, I assume BUGGA? or is there a solution to this (other than a new case - if not, again BUGGA)

    The crank does move back and forth - I have felt it. So are you saying the minimum I should expect is the crank ground, new big end bearings and of course shims?

    George
     
  4. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,738
    Location:
    Seven hills
    That the Case needs to be line bored and new bearings put in. Check the crankshaft wear tolerance, also might need to be machined. Check cam for wear and bearings. You basically have done a rebuild of the short block,while it's out,I would check and possible do the rest.As for me disturbing the heads and barrels,will they seat the same as before and cause you more problems later. It's easier to do it all in one hit and you don't have to worry about any of it later.
    I can't tell you about cost!
     
  5. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,158
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    George
    When the crank moves back and forth the flanged face of the case where the baring sits cops a beating
    I believe you can get thicker bearings and you machine the case face but this all gets to a certain point where it is not feasible to repair

    The fact you are saying 2mm concerns me
    That is a LOT
     
  6. t4camper

    t4camper Active Member

    Messages:
    330
    Location:
    rainy Maleny
    End float bearing is loaded when clutch is depressed, the throw out bearing pushes on the pressure plate and consequently the flywheel.
    Was the motor from an automatic at some stage.
    Auto's don't have thrust load.
    Bearings are technically called thrust bearing, crescent moon shaped, same style as main bearings just a slide surface.
    Only fitted to one face of crankshaft, to take flywheel load.

    Check it is not a loose fan.
    Does it move to rear each time clutch is depressed, may need pushing manually each time, with motor off.
    If thrusts are as bad as described should visible move each time clutch is depressed at idle and rattle wil likely stop.
     

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