Damaged thread in dizzy, can't tighten the point - HELP (please)

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by becjane, Mar 21, 2018.

  1. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,432
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    If you use Chrome you can add an extension that shows the pics.

    Trouble is if the Botophucket has been fixed by the ~original fix.................. you cant :(
     
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

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    2,432
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
  3. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

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    8,280
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    Melbourne Bend of Islands
  4. PICT

    PICT Member

    Messages:
    83
    Location:
    Perth
    This happened to me recently, I ended up replacing the base plate, got a spare broken dizzy from V-dub spares and repairs in Freo to use the baseplate, though now i've replaced the whole dizzy with a 2nd hand one I found on eBay and it now runs as it should, might get the old one rebuilt to keep as a spare.
     
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  5. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,135
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Thanks Barry, what I'm doing BUT have to have the time to do it so it's a work in progress when I get the time. So far the ~ fix is working through Chrome.
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,711
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Its an option IF one was available.
    I have no idea how readily available these sizes are for screws or taps.

    For a permenant fix I would want to check how much thread was created when tapped.
    Depends on how much metal still in baseplate.

    Checked...
    Drill size for 8-32 UNC, 3.454mm.
    Not enough for permenant fix.

    Next size up 11/64. = 4.365mm
    Prob screw in if you found one.?

    A 5/32 screw is same size as 4mm but coarser thread.
    Would screw in without tapping.
    Might bite better,??
    Cleaned with method on a cotton bud then used with temp locktite might hold for the trip ?
    Widely available.
    Epoxy or superglue would be second choices for adhesives.
    Both can be removed later.

    By now Rick will be pissing himself over our dodgy " repairs" ;)
     
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  7. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,767
    Location:
    Perth WA
    Try the screw first, see if it will bite. If not do as suggested by Syncro and pull the dizzy (its easy, mark the base and crankcase with a paint pen so you can get the timing close when reinstalling), then either remove the base plate yourself or take the whole thing to your local mechanic (or even a welding/fab/machining shop could fix - weld, drill then retap...).
    I dont think I've got any old dizzy's around (besides the ones running these old engines!) but I'm sure we could sort it if no-one down there can.

    On another note, has anyone actually tried one of those cheap chinese type 1 vac dizzy's on feebay? The curve is probably crap but I wonder if they have interchangeable internals?
     
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  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,711
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Have worked or delt with a few.
    Have a pertronix in the shed based on what must be a Chinese copy.
    ( few hundred km. Removed by owner. Needs sorting due to widely scattering spark causing bad driveability)

    Without a check, ( can check the pertronix copy in morning) they seem identical.

    Problems I have observed on multiple units are ...
    poor advancement on curve due to crap springs giving a non smooth advance.
    Scatter across rev range. From memory about 10 deg min.
    Driveability poor enough to have owners seeking what the problem was. ie significant loss of driveability.

    Comments from mechanics re short life of bushes . needing rebushing under a year from new.

    Know a sparkie who uses a particular Chinese copy as a base for rebuilds.
    From memory....
    Rebushes, adds springs, regraphs, new condenser.
    May change other bits as well but can't remember.

    But the caveat on what the 'genius' does is I had an original dissy rebuilt by him for someone and the " pick of replacement condensers" failed after about 1500 km plus the base plate earth braid was literally hanging on its last thread.
    Timing was also set at 4BTDC.:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2018
  9. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,767
    Location:
    Perth WA
    Yeah thats what I figured, was wondering if they would be a good donor for the breaker plate but I guess it'd be easier (or at least quicker) for the OP to just repair the old one.
    I'm guessing the 113905205AN that JK sell is the same chinese unit. It's a pity they dont perform well, for $80 bucks you could just buy a new one every time the bushes wore out!
     
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,711
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Biggest issue in my view is the extremely random spark from new.
    Don't know if the JK ones are any better but haven't heard of any acceptable cheapies and lots of supporting criticism generally on most forums.

    Ditched cheapies possibly useful for the plate.
    Think Andrew has good cans.
    JK advertise a Brazil vw shaft

    Should add that some of the real cheap sissies and alternators on eBay from sunny coast are apparently real rubbish and often not suitable for models advertised.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
  11. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,767
    Location:
    Perth WA
    I hate cheap sissies :p:D
     
  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,711
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    :D
    Yeah.
    Not much in favour of expensive ones either. :rolleyes:
     
  13. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,135
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld

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