Discussion in 'Performance' started by roverbay, Mar 22, 2013.
Heh heh, woops. can't win them all.
yes true Nils but it has left me with a better idea By cutting the lever off the part with the cotter pin hole that fits onto the shifter shaft & placing it facing down I can put on a longer shifter lever to relieve the pressure need to shift with a lever only 75mm long so goods things come from fails.
Oh My....but keep at it. How'd the Torago roof go?
this is the final set up for the intermediate shaft between the Toyota gearbox the Nissan transfercase. Hi Lux double cardan joint with the a Toyota spline welded to it. the spline is needed for plunge between the 2
Good evening all. I did some last minute stuff on the steering column today sorted the lower bracket mount set up. The position of the wheel is good I can now set up the seat to line up square with the wheel & pedals. I bought a new accelerator pedal & clutch & brake pedals to use in place of the Original VW stuff
I have a bit of work to do on the floor getting the glue off & derusting it
Lift I'm aiming for
The next Modification to get a better area of wipe
I figured out away to hide the engine from view
New pedal $25 free delivery simple cable set up good quality product for the price
pedal pads to move pedals over to line up better leg position simple job of cutting pad of & threading the posts
Yesterday was deciding day for what to do with the position of the alternator. there are 2 alternatives
1st is to run it of a hydraulic motor powered by a Holden Astra electric power pump
2nd of a vee belt through a shaft facing the front of the Kombi similar to the jack shaft on a Tarago. Run it It could be an easy solve so I will be under there tomorrow with the reciprocator saw. I plan to remove the top half of the xmember. the remove section will be replaced wit 3cm x 3cm heavy walled tube welded into the bottom left over part of xmember. with some further work I hope to be able to use the factory oil filter
Good evening all I have had to change the wiper set up going to use pommy cable type. By turning one of the pivot gear box over it will turn it into opposed type. so on the look out for some parts on the coast. One job turned out ok. In the early days of setting transfercase & gearbox up I was using a single CV shaft. After a word with Matt Berry I had to start looking at an alternative set up. Here is the partial unit It had to have a spacer ring made to allow the Toyota flange to locate into the Nissan flange the Nissan flange had the Toyota bolt PCD drilled & tapped into it. I fitted a new centre swivel. the uni joints are the wrong size so I have to get more tomorrow. there is movement now the 1st attempt was a tight fit. the transfercase is off it's mount hence the angle.
Good afternoon all. I can't complain about the service I ordered the wiper arms off a LHD & RHD Stag from a UK firm they arrived on Friday. I'm using the articulated arm type similar to the HQWB Holden driver side wiper arm. this will allow the wiper blades to square off with the outside edge of the screen. I didn't realise the pommie ones are different to what AMI used with the local content laws at the time. so I had to order the complete blades today. this is the arms check the different bend in the 2nd arm
I would think they would have to be different to allow the opposite positions would align at diferent angles due to their arc?????? both are not in the centre
How you going Earnie say hi to Kerry
Hi Pete we must be due for a visit if your home next week. Let me know or ring Kerry.
sounds great don't bring tools I have plenty to keep you both occupied
G'day all. Nice new wheel box's. Now to enlarge the kombi post holes & fit the wiper system. The blades are different to OZ blades so I had to order from the UK
Good evening all. a couple of pics of the Peugeot 307 wiper motor with the Lucas cable drive cut a bolted to it so I can use the cable drive to give me pantograph type wipers. the Wheel box's are new. along with the blades & arms.
Did some sorting of the brake & clutch mastercylinders & cleaned up the pedals ready for paint.
I used my home made linisher for the pedals coarse grit to start then a fine grit used roll to finish off. Then paint them black. I have modified the existing Cross member that was aleft over from the lowlight where VW mounted the drum brake master cylinder. I had a plate folded to mount the cylinders to for extra strength. I also had the rear tailsahft finished of witha final machining job to square off the end & fit a circlip groove this was a time consumer getting a final length.
I had to lenghten the brake rod between the pedal & booster due to relocation. I had it bored & the new enfd spigotted to press fit then welded by workshop.
I had to turn the clutch cable arm upside down & reversed on the pedal bar then extend it for travel on the master cylinder. The floor is for settingup it's not ECLECTIC'S FLOOR.
the booster location
I linished the pedals to clean them up for paint. the linisher is home made out of bit's i had laying around. A mate gave me the aluminium drive drum for it this is convex & helps line the belt up with the front wheel. I used a heavty grit then a used fine grit belt to get the final finish
this is before & after
the final job in the front wheel drive was having the magna CV joints modified tofit into the commodore diff. The engineer shop machined the CV to form a spigot where the spline used to be then machined the commodore output shafts to accept the spigot these wer pressed together & welded by the tailshaft man. I ran the weld down on the linisher.
In looking for something different I decided on these. I had the brackets folded to mount them behind a set of clear bay lense's
I screwed them one in to paint it to get the shape of the hole to trim the waste out
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