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Doing CV's DIY

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by StevieVW, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. Doc

    Doc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,902
    Location:
    Gunnedah
    After sustaining two subungual hematoma's (very painful) here are the finished products and I used at least a dozen pair of surgical gloves and still got grease everywhere.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    Mmmmm... Shiny....
     
  3. Van Housing

    Van Housing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Williamstown Vic
    So, do you do you your own trepanation? I had a vision of you with a large hammer drill, with massive drill bit ... ouch....


    Thanks Steve and Doc! :) We'll follow this guide when we do the CVs on Loona and Woger.... great stuff! :)
     
  4. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,473
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    They are TOO clean, you could eat off them!
     
  5. OberonViking

    OberonViking Active Member

    Messages:
    1,809
    Location:
    Bathurst, NSW
    I need to replace just one rear outer boot. Can I do this without removing the entire driveshaft?
    I figure I will need to support the drive shaft on the end I remove.
    I will have the body supported and wheel off, I think there will be enough space around to work the CV off and back on.
    The CVs are all relatively new - I don't think I need to clean and repack them unnecessarily. I'd rather only do that to the one that has split.
     
  6. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    Just 2 cents worth but I'd sooner remove the axle and just put a plastic bag over the good end, secured with a rubber band doubled over a couple of times. Not to say you can't do it under the car but some aspects require both hands the way I do it and the axle would tend to move around and be a pain in the neck - a lot easier in a bench vice I reckon. Also a chance to get a glimpse of the grease in the "good" end and satisfy yourself that your new joints aren't wearing prematurely.

    Then when it's time to put it back just reattach the newly repacked end, then remove the bag at the last minute before reattaching the other end - the joint will remain clean and you don't lose too much grease on the inside of the bag if you're careful. Have fun :)
     
  7. OberonViking

    OberonViking Active Member

    Messages:
    1,809
    Location:
    Bathurst, NSW
    Thanks nikferatu. That is a good idea. I hope I can get all 12 bolts out easily - that's my main concern.
     
  8. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    save yourself some trouble and buy a 6mm allen key socket. Makes it easy as and save your hands trying to undo the bolts with an allen key. much easier to torque up later too.

    Adrian
     
    Gordon D likes this.
  9. OberonViking

    OberonViking Active Member

    Messages:
    1,809
    Location:
    Bathurst, NSW
    Indeed, and a good set of circlip pliers.
     
  10. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    Ahh! So, you have minions to do your dirty work? :)
     
  11. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,672
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I am going to repack mine soon and I think I will get them all out and the 2 pares and do them all in one go, then qrap the spare ones up in plastic so they are ready when I need them. Get the worst of it done in one hit.

    Adrian
     
  12. OberonViking

    OberonViking Active Member

    Messages:
    1,809
    Location:
    Bathurst, NSW
    G'ah! The Patrol needs more work. I have taped the CV thoroughly. The split was small and new, and at the narrow end. It'll have to wait till I get the Patrol fixed up. Should only be a week at most.
    I'll probably drop the engine when I do the CV boot. I need to insert the cooling flaps, and if I am taking one transaxle off I might as well take both and drop the engine/gearbox at the same time.
     
  13. OberonViking

    OberonViking Active Member

    Messages:
    1,809
    Location:
    Bathurst, NSW
    I changed the CV boot yesterday - easy enough job though messy, especially when you put the hub in the wrong way round and don't notice till you wonder why the transaxle won't twist up to reach the gearbox. Still, it all helps to develop an understanding of how things work.
     
  14. Nigel

    Nigel Member

    Messages:
    624
    Location:
    Canvey Island, Essex, UK
    Removing CVJs

    Some CVJs are held on with XZN 12-pointed spline (triple-square) socket screws!
     
  15. Serious85

    Serious85 Active Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Logan
    Is there such thing as too much grease when packing these? Mine are currently out waiting for some shiny new boots. The boot kits come with grease but I got some extra Moly grease just to be safe.
     
  16. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    I usually load the joint up until you literally can't get any more in there. I'm not sure that filling up the boot really proves anything and it might be counter-productive, I usually find that any grease in the boot tends to just end up sitting in the grooves where it doesn't achieve anything. I haven't bought grease in the tubes for years but am I right in saying that one tube = one joint? I think the vital aspect is making sure that all the available airspace in the joint is full of the stuff. Some kind of pressure gun would be handy but normally I end up working it in by hand with ice cream sticks!

    I think there's definitely a strong argument for not waiting until the new boots are totally split in half like the old ones before regreasing the unit, new joints cost a lot more than the boots and grease. I've reused many a boot after a good clean and check for any cracking starting to appear. I'd do mine at least once every 2 years and often less than that, probably a lot less than the spec mileage but after you've had a couple let go out on the road and leave you stuck it doesn't seem like too big a deal to service them more often. With a bit of practice you can smash it in a couple of hours.
     
  17. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,953
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Yes, there are warnings against this in the workshop manuals.
     
  18. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    Thought so. When I said "load the joint up" I meant just the joint, not the entire boot as well.
     
  19. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,953
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    There is a specified amount. I think that it is 90g.
     
  20. Serious85

    Serious85 Active Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Logan
    Yeah I think the packets that come with the boot kits are 90g each, so you must be right. I bought the extra grease because I was going to just buy boots from my local VW mechanic, but his prices just aren't competitive compared to the online stores who do the whole kit.
     

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