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Engine out... What to do???

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Bay_Buddha, Jun 15, 2008.

  1. Bay_Buddha

    Bay_Buddha Member

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    Berowra Heights,North of Sydney
    Hi Guys... Hope you're all traveling well!

    I have a question tonight regarding jobs to do while the engine and fuel tank are out.

    I pulled them out on Saturday and aside from a good tidy up I would like to know everyone's thoughts on what should be done.

    A few points:
    • Engine is a stock 2lt with an electronic fuel pump.
    • Fuel tank is very clean on the outside (the condition under the dust that is).
    • The inside of the bellhousing has a good layer of oil and the engine would drop a few spots of oil when parked nose up on a hill. It seems that a significant leak is coming from the starter/fuel pump area.
    • I don't intend on splitting the case at this stage nor will I be buying any 'performance' bits as I'm painting the whole van and that has soaked up enough cash for now. I would however like to set up an electronic ignition, rectify the oil leaks and do all the solid jobs so I will be able to put as reliable an engine as I can afford back in.
    The engine bay and tinware will be painted, breather/fuel hoses replaced (again!), and the filler elbow will be replaced.

    So i guess after all that I am looking for advice on identifying and fixing oil leaks and anything else I missed.

    Thanks for your time kids!

    Phill.
     
  2. kombimatt

    kombimatt Active Member

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    Dodges Ferry, TAS
    Very interested in responses here. I'm at the same point Phil!
     
  3. Schmoburger

    Schmoburger Active Member

    Messages:
    4,381
    Location:
    Nowra/Jervis Bay area, NSW.
    Phil, I'd say replace both the front and rear oil seals on the motor and the gearbox main seal for starters... this should clear up your leak into the bellhousing and prevent trashing your clutch. In fact this may have been what made your clutch go bad in the first place. :)

    What does the leaking fluid from the starter area smell like?... does it smell like motor oil, gear oil, or petrol?

    While the engine is out I'd probably take off the heads and put new valves in but this depends how motivated you feel. :)

    CHeers!
    Kieran
     
  4. kombidaze

    kombidaze Member

    Messages:
    466
    Location:
    Uki NSW
    ok heres a few suggestions to keep you busy
    the oil in the bell housing could either be a weeping rear engine seal located behind the flywheel bit of a job to get to it or it could be the drive shaft oil seal which is located behind the round sleeve that the thrust bearing slides on in the bellhousing probably requires you pulling out the gearbox to change it, at least thats the way i have done it.
    there should be no oil leak around the starter but the fuel pumps can develop a leak especially if the bolts are a little loose and those bolts are usually the 12 point allen type heads which require a special socket to undo em. any good tool shop should be able to get one for u
    i would retorque the head nuts whilst i had the tin ware off and change the spark plugs and leads and make sure all your vacume hoses are in good condition especially the elbows at the rear of each inlet manifold electronic point replacement is a great idea no more hassle with points and timing
    probably a good idea to clean the carbies even if you only squirt the outside with some carby cleaner that way if there are any problems they are easier to see
    to take the tinware off you will have to remove the carbies and inlet manifolds anyway
    its possible one of your push rod tubes is leaking sometimes the location of an oil leak can be deceiving but when you remove all the tinware you will get a better idea of whats going on.
    ps. shouldn't mention it but whilst the motor is out and the rear end is up it gives you really great access to the cv joints might be an idea to repack em whilst your in the mood
    should be fun all the best
    john
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2008
  5. peterbro

    peterbro New Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Freo, W.A.
    If you are changing the front engine seal, check the 'end float' and if need be adjust.
    You may find that the 'pushrod cover seals' are leaking (there will be oil leaking onto the tinwear under them), and you can replace them without removing the heads.

    Give the internal of the fuel tank a good inspection and chances are (given its age) it would be prudent to give it the 'POR 15' treatment (about $120). That will give it a long trouble free life.
    And given the age of the petrol tank sender for the fuel gauge and the difficulty of getting to it otherwise, it may be worth considering replacing that.

    Good luck.
     
  6. Bay_Buddha

    Bay_Buddha Member

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    Berowra Heights,North of Sydney
    Thanks mate... The clutch/pressure plate looks clean it's just the bellhousing. Not sure if that makes sense.
    Fluid I'm pretty sure has come from the fuel pump area (engine oil/petrol)

    Roughly how much will valves and sundries be? Will I need to get anything machined?

    Thankyou John... Great advice! I gather I'd need a carby kit from somewhere yeah?
    As for the push rod tubes I do recall seeing a bit of oil near one of them. Whats the cost involved in parts to replace?

    C.V joints are good but they are on the list too.

    Thanks for the reply Peter! Pushrod seals will be inspected as will the tank and sender.

    Thanks heaps guys!

    Phill.
     
  7. Schmoburger

    Schmoburger Active Member

    Messages:
    4,381
    Location:
    Nowra/Jervis Bay area, NSW.
    Phil if the fluifd near the fuel pump is petrol, chances are the diaphragm in the pump is cactus and the pump is leaking fuel out the overflow tiube (this is designed to vent the leaking fuel to the atmosphere rather than have it build up in the crankcase, diluting th the oil.)... in that case you'll need a new pump diaphragm... wait no i just remembered your using an electric pump... inb that case i'd say that, as John already suggested, the bolts may be loose. And you will need to track down some 12 pointed bits.... I bought a set a little while back to remove fuel pump bolts and auto flexplates and they cost me about 11 bucks for a set of four including both sizes needed for VW applications.

    As for valves... WPVW quoted me I think 25 bucks each for exhaust valves and i presume intake valves would be much the same. :) Replacing the valves with new ones is just good insurance against failure as the exhaust valves in particular in VW motors (or any aircooled motor for that matter) cop a lot of punishment. When replacing the valves you really ought to take the heads into a VW shop and haver them "lap" the valves to the seats to provide the best possible seating and hence optimum performance and valve longevity.

    CHeeers!
     
  8. Bay_Buddha

    Bay_Buddha Member

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    Berowra Heights,North of Sydney
    Ok guys I have some money saved... Here is my list so far.

    PER-1847 - PERTRONIX ELECTRONIC IGNITION FOR STOCK VACUUM ADVANCE BOSCH DISTRIBUTORS - BEETLE 69-79 / GHIA 69-74 / BUS 69-79

    They recommend I get a coil as well. I have a GT 40 in the garage would that do?

    VWC-021-198-009-CGR - COMPLETE ENGINE GASKET SET - 18-2000CC - BUS 74-78 (MADE IN GERMANY)

    What are the extras I need that don't come in the kits?

    VWC-211-501-149 - CV JOINT BOOT W/ FLANGE - IRS THING 73-74 / BUS 68-79 / VANAGON 80-91 - SOLD EACH

    These are the EMPI brand boots... Are they ok?

    Does anyone know roughly what the prices are to have the valves and seats lapped? I would like to be able to get these done while i'm at it.

    Thanks heaps for your time everyone!

    Phill.
     
  9. kombidaze

    kombidaze Member

    Messages:
    466
    Location:
    Uki NSW
    the gasket kit is as it says "complete" you will have many bits left over the kit has everything to rebuild an engine from the ground up. you can buy the gaskets and orings you need as seperate items and save lots of money.

    taking an old set of heads into a head rebuilder can open up a pandoras box but if you don't want to be pulling the engine again for a while then best to do it
    the last set of heads i had reconditioned cost $320 that was to bead blast them, resurface the seats lap in the valves and replace one worn valve guide i was quoted $60 each for replacement valves so i reniged on that one.

    not sure about the gt40 have to hope someone with a pertronix set up chimes in,
    i believe ttmk (tom) is a firm believer in pertronix maybe pm him
    john
     
  10. Bay_Buddha

    Bay_Buddha Member

    Messages:
    397
    Location:
    Berowra Heights,North of Sydney
    Thanks John!

    What pieces should I get from the gasket kit?

    I know I will need the orings for the push rod tubes, valve cover gaskets and oil strainer bits. What else?

    Do the front and rear engine seals have other names? I'm having trouble finding them.

    Sorry to be peresistent.

    Phill.
     
  11. kombikid76

    kombikid76 New Member

    Messages:
    652
    Location:
    sunny sydney
    flywheel seal? fan seal?

    any good vw parts supplier will know what your talking about...
     

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