Evie - 1966 Aussie Delivered 11 Window Kombi

Agree Melissa unless it worked up & down on one of the pulleys which I doubt given the shown movement. 68BUS shouldn't leave it in the shed for so long with the engine lid open!
Cheers

 

That was my first thought. Except there is no damage to the plastic protection sleeve. And the internal diameter of the sleeve is only 1mm +/- the outside diameter of the plug lead. So there is no way something could have chewed it unless it is the size of a termite.

 

I have given up with him now. Hence the CPU dizzy change over.

I have hit a stumbling block though.
The original pully wheel came off easily.
And I have checked the new versus the old. It seems identical based on my measuring tools.
But I cannot get my new flywheel to pull the whole way home. Hopefully the photo below shows this? Is there any tricks?
I have soaked the pully in boiling water to try and expand it. Greased it. Tapped the center with a rubber mallett.
But no joy.
Hand brake on, in 4th gear. Still on chocks, so will lower so tyre bite on the ground.
I photo of the haynes manual is below. The process is what I followed. Not having luck though.

I feel like the pulley should push back another 5-6mm.
Washer is pushed right back into groove already.





And this is the process I am following.

 

have you tried putting it on without the woodruff key? if the key is flipping up it won't go on all the way

 

I think there is a slinger (pressed metal washer like thing) that sits on the crankshaft and the boss on the back of the pulley holds it up against the crankshaft.
if it sits on its own step (not sure that it does) and came forward off its step this would stop your pulley going in all the way.

 

Yep. There is one. And I think that creates some of the issue.
But I assume it was there to pack the pulley out to suit the larger offset alternator.
Fair to say that I have to run this washer?

I might have to make a different bracket to suit the sensor I think. ( it sits behind the pulley and the new pulley has a trigger plate on the back. - i need to make up 4.5mm).

 

Nah - not that

You can see in the section

I reckon it’s the woodruff key moving

 

Brilliant. I did not find that cutaway section.
I will look for the woodruff key tomorrow afternoon. I found the one on the alternator but not on the crank.
It might be sitting up to far.

 

So I have basically reached my ability limit today.
System installed, wired roughed in. And spare cables tidied into loose cable ties, ready for final clean up.

Turns out that I won't be able to remove the dizzy completely, Whilst trying to remove the drive gear from the block I realised that the mechanical fuel pump is run by a gear ring on the drive gear. So the drive gear has to remain in place to operate the fuel pump. And I need to keep the dizzy in place to hold down the drive gear so it does not come loose in the motor.
Maybe I will strip it out and hide a spare key in there or something.
I am sure an actual mechanic would have worked that out much earlier and saved an hour trying to remove it.

Auto electrician booked in for Thursday. The instructions are really good for what I do, but I don't know what to hook up in relation to the original wiring. So hopefully the Auto Elec can help me get the car fired up.

 

Get a electric fuel pump be done with it.

 

One thing at a time. At least I know the mech fuel pump works. So if it does not run I am not having to rule an extra thing this time around.

I might get the auto electrician to set up the wiring up while he is there though.
Would I just get one from Micks motors or similar. Or do people know what PSI they should be for dual carbs? Repco might have a decent option.

 

I use a Carter fuel pump that has a built in regulator with a PSI 3.5

 

Not sure for Kadrons but Webers and Dellortos's run 2.5 to 3 psi
So wouldn't run any higher fuel pressure than that
Facet make a low pressure pump as well as Wayne's good suggestion
Cheers,
Pete

 

Kadrons run at 1.5 - 2.0 PSI.
I ran my Weber and Dels at 3.0 - 3.5 PSI

But this motor has Kads

 

Thanks Folks.

 

So I kind of made progress today. Auto electrician arrived today and looked a bit confused. I ran him through the system and what was installed so far.
But the power and earthing seemed too much like hard work and he did not want to take it on.
But I did get to pick his brain on the methods of doing the power and earthing loom and cable sizes, connections types and fusing requirements.
So it was a good $100 spend to get that.
At least now I can do the wiring and I know which wire is the ignition wire and think I know which is the tacho. So I can at least proceed from there.

So I reckon I have a good days wiring and layouts and I should be ready to start the software installs and then go onto firing it up.
Hopefully I get some time on Sunday. My daughters birthday weekend so I will be slip sliding at Wet n Wild Waterpark on Saturday.

 

yep, always good to do it yourself so that you are familiar with it if it is ever necessary to revisit it

 

Looks so simple laid out. Hopefully this all works okay. I figure laying the wiring out will reduce the risk of me completely stuffing something up. Haha.