Evie - 1966 Aussie Delivered 11 Window Kombi

I'm not familiar with the Jo Blow ecu but something else to check while your testing
Most ecu's have 2 power inputs, one that you turn on and off via the ignition switch, the other permanently connected to 12v. This is to keep the memory alive when every thing else is off.
If your ecu has this function then make sure the wires are connected the right way round.
If the wrong way round it would give you the problem you have also.

 

Just doing more reading about the non shutting down side of the bus, in order to have a plan of attack before I fire the motor up again.
Micks email mentioned a solenoid that might have to go in with the ignition light (Orange light I believe - Red is oil pressure yes?).

I did not understand this concept. But after some research I found a good explanation on the Samba, About some relays that only close when there are 5amps or less in the system. And alternators can still throw out 7amps when the bus is still running.
The 7amps runs through the circuit that contains the light in the dash.
By installing a solenoid i assume this converts some of the amps into electro magnetic field that lowers the amps going back to the relay to trigger it off? Trying to search more on that but seems like dark arts.

Based on this, is it fair to assume that if the engine overruns again and won't shut off, in order to force a shut down I can either;
1- Pull the feed from the ignition to the relay out of the relay. There by dropping the amps to zero and triggering the relay to switch off.
2- Put into 4th gear and drop clutch to stall it.
3- Ultimately trying a different brand of solenoid might work too.

I do note that pulling the + terminal of the battery off did not work, but the alternator was creating the power feed without the battery.

Does this make sense?

The following is the post from the Samba that started me on this search topic, and contains a link to the solenoid install on an MG.

Thanks folks, I really do appreciate all the help!!!

The Samba thread -
What did you change recently? I would suspect something with the power in the engine compartment?

I had the same problem when I installed a relay in the engine compartment to provide power to the coil and other devices. What I found was that the standard "Bosch-style" relay can remain CLOSED with as little as 5v of power. So as long as there was some power in the ignition power circuit it would keep the relay ON. Both the ignition coil and the idle solenoid will normally power off with less than 10v (or so).

The power comes from the Gen light in the speedo. The alternator/generator send 12v+ along the blue wire to the dash bulb. When the ignition switch is turned to OFF the alt/gen still provide some voltage (around 7v) to the blue wire as the engine spins down. This goes through the Gen light and then passes to the ignition power circuit via the fuse box. This amount of voltage is not enough to fire the coil or maintainin the idle solenoid, but if you are powering a relay which maintains power to the coil and solenoid, they will both "see" full power and remain operating.

The solution to this is the use of a diode in the circuit to the Gen light.
Give this article a read:
http://www.mgexperience.net/article/mgb/ignition-run-on.pdf


Then again... this could be completely wrong if you aren't using a relay.

 

Correct.
The car is running off the alternator.
Think of it as when you have a dead flat battery and you jump start your car.
The battery is still dead but the car runs.

Same same scenario

 

So if i pull the ignition wire should that safely mimmic the power being turned off?

 

@68BUS

That would be my assumption and understanding

 

What “turns a motor off” is removing 12v to coil and distributor.
This removes the spark and the compression stops the motor turning.

Run on can occur when the motor gets hot, for various reasons, and the glowing deposits act like a “glow plug” and cause the motor to stumble on.
Particularly if the fuel pump is mechanical and it keeps pumping fuel in there

This is why it is sometimes called “dieseling” as it is the principle of a diesel motor - ie the ability to run without a distributor and hence without spark

 

Thanks Barry.
I appreciate your knowledge. I saw the term dieseling on something this morning. Will read into that more too.
The headers seemed really hot to me considering it was running for not even 5 minutes.

Timing advance was set to 5 degree. I will try it at 7 degree and see if that helps. Might be some fuel was still burning on way out (assume this would result in back fires if too bad which did not happen).

 

Reckon I am just about ready to go for a road test.
What do you think folks?
Cannot hear any bad sounds?
Can any of you? Rather figure it out before putting load on it.

 

And for the first time since Busstop. Evie has left the shed. Damn I get good value from my fully comp insurance and full rego.

Decided to put two layers of protection on the bottom leads with fibreglass and silicon wrap underneath.

 

And............

 

Oh - motor sounds sweet to me

 

Just wanting to make sure no one can hear something I cannot. Plus I have to take the kids to swim club.

 

Agree sounds great. Enjoy

 

Great work Brad congratulations

 

Sounds good to me as well

 

That’s a sweet running diesel.

 

Sweet as 68BUS. Could you play it again for me. Oops I've done that 4 times already.
Nice job.
Cheers

 

Given that the engine is not stock, and stuff all info was forthcoming, it would be nice to check timing curve on a dyno .
Just for peace of Mind

 

That would be interesting to see how it goes versus the active spark map the software provides.

Will go for some local test drives today to see how it feels.