Doc, I've got a 59 splitty with a 1776 in it with standard doghouse cooler. I have to rebuild the motor and was wondering should i go down the path of a after market cooler mounted underneath midway between the chasis rails. If so do i keep the standard cooler as well as the new one? Where do i run the oil lines from either taped into the case or from the oil pump.? Do i run a high flow pump?. There seems to be a lot of different options out there. The bus gets used daily in traffic as well as long distance weekend camping trips. I'm after relilabilty so should i just keep the standard set up. Thanks Aaron
Not the "Doc" but done it a few times. Mounted on the cross members that run under the bus from side to side works well. I use the factory oil cooler aswell, cause all the write ups say thats the best. It works well with both the standard and the after market job, and that way if you have any drama's with the aftermarket job, your still in business with the factory cooler. Out of the oil pump via a specially purchased oil pump cover is good and easy. In some cases though with rear support bars, you need to examine the clearance you have from the standard pump cover to the bar, as it runs fairly close. Hope that helps.
Unless it's a wild 1776, there shouldn't be any reason to use an external cooler, the doghouse should be enough. If you feel you need one, there are several options, drill and tap the case, run a plugged oil pump with full flow cover or you can get a return fitting that fits in the oil relief spot at the bottom of the case. A lot of people don't like this option, but you could use a CB performance maxi pump which provides inlet and outlet at the oil pump, Rod Penrose fits them to a few of his engines that I've seen for sale on various forums. As for the external cooler, if you feel you need one, either go for a plate type or setrab (expensive, but awesome quality and used by nascar teams) plate type are generally larger, a setrab would tuck up by the gearbox easily. Sticking the cooler down on the chassis rails isn't bad idea, but a deep sump and AN -10 lines might be needed for extra oil volume. I run a 2180 in my 57 panel which is about to be swapped for a 2110,I don't plan on running an external cooler, but I am using a DTM, I'll run it and see how it goes. If you are splitting the case, it might be worth getting the case tapped for full flow, gives you the option of going the best route for a cooler if you need it and running a good oil filter is always good for the engine.
Thanks guys, exactly what i needed. I can now make an educated decision. Have been told the same as what flipflop suggested. Whats happened to the Doc. Aaron
I ran a 1600cc twin-port in a '66 with a big oil pump. I ran a filter from it and in between the filter and the mount I ran an adaptor to an oil cooler. I had vents on the side which were covered in winter but always open when I travelled during the summer. The oil pressure was always high and the temp low. It had no trouble travelling at 75-80mph on a 45C day coming back across the Nullarbor. Gee I miss those days.:cry: Jim PS The old girl is my avatar.
I bought a Transmission cooler with fan and plan to bolt it to the rails under the bus with a thermostat control for the fan. Where would the best point to take the oil line to and back to the motor?
I recommend that even a stock 1600 can go the extra cooler......the air flow at the rear of a split bus can be sooo easily altered eg open a pop out window and watch the temp change on a hot day.Stock pump will handle a external cooler....as mentioned use a pump plate take off and tap the case ...this can be done without splitting the case with careful use of grease to eliminate the alloy filings entering the block ----these are usually soft . The next step is to buy a 80's merc cooler This oil cooler sits besides the radiator...its great quality alloy..cheap and is thin which allows easy mounting just behind the front axle between the chassis rails....great air flow her with no chance of damage....run the 500psi hose from pirtek with a thermostat inline so the cooler will fully open at 80plus degrees. The length of hose also acts as a cooler.......I have fitted over 20 of these conversions with great success......Retain the stock cooler at all costs.....all the buses I have fitted this system run at about 85 degrees cheers steve.
i would just like to mention that hose clamps on the cooler lines are not the best way to attach the hoses barb type fittings should be replaced with screw in adaptors your local hydraulics shop ala pirtek would make crimp / scew on connections that will never blow off internally braided hose is the way to go
My engine will be a bit larger than standard and I am running an extra oil cooler. The case is tapped for full flow and also has a Berg larger sump. From the case I have proper custom made hoses that the ends are fitted at the shop so they dont blow off, from the pump they go to an O'Berg filter then to a cooler mounted between the chassis rails with a thermo fan, this is controlled via an internal thermostat switch ( also have a bypass switch in the cab), then it goes back to the case. Also runnng the standard oil cooler. We live in a rather warm country so I think we can never get enough cooling. Dave
There's obviously more than one way to skin a cat but here are some pics of an oil cooler installation we did on a customers bus last week: He already had the case tapped for full flow and was running an external filter so it made the process fairly straight forward: The oil passes out of the pump, into the filter through to the thermostat (either bypassed back to engine when below temp, or passes to cooler when thermostat opens), then cooler and back to engine. We haven't done any other work to this bus other than the cooler installation The thermo switch triggers the fan making the system automatic.
