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Fitting Rear disc brakes to my 79 Bay

Discussion in 'Steering, brakes & Suspension' started by felixqld66, May 24, 2009.

  1. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Well we all toy with our buses to make them our own and I always try to do stuff that will possibly reduce maintainence.

    I had to get some front calipers rebuilt and I organized that through John Sherman at Volksconversions as I like to keep things as local and small business as I can. While I was talking to him about the front calipers he sold me on the advantages of the rear discs as well. What a canny old salesman hey! Sell ice to an eskimo he could!!!!:lol:

    I did a lot of searching on the net but couldn't find anything listed on fitting discs to the rear, but they sounded like a good idea and promised a reliable handbrake with no adjustment required as the shoes wear.

    So I got a Rear disc set sent up with the reco front calipers and decided to give it a go, They didn't come with any instructions apart from John assuring me it was "pretty straight forward mate... any problems just give me a call!"

    So I stocked myself up with some tools ( including a bloody big socket for the rear castellated nuts...thanks Glen) Brake fluid, tasty new braided lines for the front calipers, some paint ,some kombi helpers, a good few hours up my sleeve, and three contact numbers for John Sherman just in case :lol:

    I left the camera at the workshop so will upload stuff tomorrow night just thought I would get the thread started so I don't get slack. So this first post is a bit of a teaser really
     
  2. jon ward

    jon ward Active Member

    Messages:
    5,759
    Location:
    Travelling Australia
    Love to see what type of caliper you got.
    Most of them you have to adjust the handbrake at every pad change.
    Full credit though in having a crack at it yourself! Will be watching this one!

    Can you put up a rough estimate of costs involved when your finished too please?
     
  3. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Something hiding behind those rear mags

    From this

    [​IMG]

    To this

    [​IMG]
     
  4. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Disk Brake conversion
    So when the box of goodies arrived from John It consisted of;
    · New backing plates left and right 2 extra bolts to complement the existing bolts that would be used to fit the backing plate
    · Two machined to fit inside the new disk stud axles these arrived pre-fitted to the new disks.
    · Calipers left and right with pads fitted
    · 4 bolts to mount Calipers to the backing plate
    · Two new flexible brake lines
    · Two handbrake cable mounts
    Of course being an old rev head I painted them red with caliper paint after clearing machine oil off them. Note to self ( and others) if you intend to do this clean them several times as I had some adhesion issues. I also had on hand new cotter pins for the castellated nuts.


    [​IMG]





    Of course while I was doing the rear I intended to replace the front calipers, flexible line and the passenger side front wheel bearing. I had changed the driver’s side last year but was a bit short of cash and only did the noisy side. For this I had
    · Recon Calipers
    · Brake pads
    · Flexible Braided Stainless steel brake lines
    · Brake fluid
    · Bleeder hose
    · Font wheel bearing
    · Grease

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  5. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    The sexy braided lines I got through Kombi whisperer Geoff Scott


    [​IMG]

    Tools needed were
    · Brake bleeder spanners 8mm and 11mm
    · 12, 19 , 22 mm ring spanner sockets of each size handy too
    · 12mm socket
    · 19 mm Ratchet and extensions
    · A rattle gun is pretty handy if you have one
    · Car stands
    · Drill
    · 8.5 mm drill bit
    · Flat screw driver
    · Pliers
    · Small lever or wrecking bar if the drum sticks a bit after backing off the shoes
    · A bloody big socket for the castellated nuts couldn't get proper metric made do with 1 inch and 7/8 ( fitted a 6ft extension bar to it to get the leverage required) Cheers Glen
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  6. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Because I had the mags on I had to fit the standard spare (more on this later!!!!!!) On so that I could access the castellated nut with the car on the ground.
    Mag on
    [​IMG]
    Mag off changed to standard rim
    [​IMG]

    1. This is the big sucker remove cotter pin and undo castellated nut.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    1. Back of the star adjusters inside the brake drum to release the drum
    After getting the drum off
    [​IMG]

    1. To get the shoes off disconnect the handbrake cable and the retainer spring at the bottom of the shoes.
    2. Disconnect the brake line from the from the brake cylinder you can put a brake bleeder dust cap over the line to slow down the loss of fluid.

    [​IMG]

    1. Undo the bolt holding the brake cylinder on then remove.
    2. To remove the star adjusting mechanism you need to undo the two bolts above it then drill out the rivet. I used a drill with an 8.5 mm drill bit.
    [​IMG]

     
  8. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    7. With the old drum backing plate removed clean the area and fit the new disk backing/adaptor using a bolt supplied for the top hole that was the brake cylinder mounting hole. Replace the bottom two bolts that held the star adjuster mechanism.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With no written instructions next came fitting the handbrake cable mount below is the wrong location DO NOT TRY HERE!!!! You are wasting your time

    [​IMG]
     
  9. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    This is more like correct location

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    1. Fit the bracket above where the solid brake line exits the swing arm in the picture below.
    2. Fit the disk complete with stud axle onto the spline.
    3. The caliper fits over the disk and bolts to backing/adaptor plate with the two bolts supplied with spring washers.
    [​IMG]


    This shot show wear the caliper bolts on to the backing plate the disc is not on so you get the idea

    [​IMG]
     
  11. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    11. With the disk and caliper in place you can fit the castellated nut but not yet done up – we put it back on the ground to do up the castellated nut and fit the cotter pin. At this point if you have not got at least a 15 inch merc rim with the correct offset you will be cursing as your standard 14 kombi rim will not fit over the new brake set up and will as a result ruin the paint on the caliper. Have your new spare organized first before you start the job!!!!!

    12. You can also fit the brake line and the hand brake cable a bit of bending of the steel line is needed to make sure everything clears everything else.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  12. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    1. So after putting the wheel back on skewiff and scratching the paint you can do up the big nut and fit the cotter pin.
    2. Repeat on the other side then bleed the system.



    NB Because of the shockies I have the handbrake cable mount had to be modified, it cleared the shock when not engaged but came a bit too close to it when applied. I contacted John and arranged to take the Kombi to him. He was fantastic; we looked at the problem and worked out how it could be modified to suit. Awesome after sales service.
    John is considering doing the mod to all his kits because it doesn’t affect the performance of the disc brakes or the hand brake.
    To make the mods necessary for the cable to not foul the shock on my vehicle we cut a bit off the activation lever and ground it to tidy it up. Then we drilled it with a 6.5 mm drill. A 6mm diameter x 40mm long high tensile bolt with Nylock nut was then used to attach the hand break cable to the handbrake activation lever.
    Here are some photos of the mod
    Before things are a bit close

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2009
  13. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    So this is the cut and ground end of the lever

    [​IMG]

    This one shows the hole drilled for the bolt to take the handbrake cable

    [​IMG]


    This shows the washers in place to space out the cable and keep it free of the rubber boot on the caliper


    [​IMG]
     
  14. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    All together again

    [​IMG]


    Job done


    [​IMG]
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  15. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Apart from the shockie hiccup they were very easy to install, including doing the front calipers, new flexible lines, one front wheel bearing and the disk brake conversion it was just over 6 hours. I reckon you could do the rear disks alone in about 2 to 3 hours on your own with some instructions (possibly under two hours if you were working on both sides at the same time. So that’s why I have put this basic run down together. I am pretty handy but no mechanic so just like me you could give it a go with some kombi mates on hand to support!

    AND THE RESULTS
    The Kombi pulls up nice and straight, it squats down when the brakes are applied didn’t do any tests about stopping distance and they would have been compromised by my front weeping caliper anyway.

    Have a great handbrake for the first time in three years and it won’t need any adjustment as the pads wear.

    Thanks to John Sherman, Stan and Denise, and the old bloke who doesn’t like getting in photos (the guy in the background with all the opinions)

    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]
    Guess who?????
     
  16. dan_b

    dan_b Member

    Messages:
    570
    Location:
    mackay-
    a rough idea on the price?
    i have seen kits but they dont include a hand brake,
    pretty kean on getting this set up
     
  17. Vanders

    Vanders Active Member

    Messages:
    1,450
    Location:
    Launceston, Tasmania
    Great stuff. I just made it a sticky.
     
  18. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Kits $990 plus freight give John Sherman a call if you are interested. Top guy super helpful

    Business Hrs: Mon - Sat. 8;00am - 5:00pm
    Ph: 07 55 377 770 (+61) Outside AUST.
    Fax: 07 55 912 723 (+61) Outside AUST.
    After Hours: 07 55 912 723​
     
    Groffo likes this.
  19. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,847
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Fair guess that John will have a site at clubfest if anyone wants to see what he has.
    Lots of GOOD adapters etc.
    col
     
  20. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,473
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    Does he do a kit so you can keep your stock rims?
     

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