Re filters.. I keep connections inside the engine compartment to a minimum. Fuel in to a T piece to each Carb. One filter should do the trick and should be between tank and pump so you do not get gunk into pump. From the fuel tank into a filter then to pump and cut-off if fitted then into engine compartment.
Our 79 has a plastic concertina hose fitted from the air cleaner box to the drivers side vent cavity. On your battery picture you will see a little bracket welded to the panel. A large cable tie is used to hold the hose. Believe this was original fitting for our 79.
The covered apertures on each side are from the heater boxes - originally there would have been hoses from each to a fan which would blow air through the heater boxes up to the cabin. With respect to the fuel lines, I bought a metal tee to replace the original plastic one . This sits through the fire wall with the hose to each carby coming off at the inside of the fire wall, which means you don't have hose rubbing against the hole in the fire wall. Contact member Komisaint in Toowoomba and see if he can help you with the bits and pieces you are missing.
Thanks for the advice re fuel filters. I will make the necessary changes ASAP. I'll also try to source some concertina hose to connect to the air filter box and connect a hose from the charcoal canister to the top of same. Apal, in answer to your question, the 76 is an 1800, the 77 is a 2 ltr.
Me too. That's why I suggest that the advice I've received in previous posts is spot on. However I will made sure I accurately measure the oil I use in the next change to ensure the dip stick markings are accurate.
Mordred, re your post. I have removed the air filter box to get a better view. There is no pipe connected from under the air box to the air intake. I did suck on the outlet pipe andthe flap opened and closed. I take it from your comments about the carbs that this pipe should be in place. Could you please confirm that this is so.
I know we've moved past the issue, but looking at the two pics of the dipsticks, you can still just see the original marks and where somebody has ground over them, they are a little wider spaced than the top stick pictured but are in pretty much the right place, and would have had cross hatching between them to help hold thin or clean oil on the stick making it easier to check the level before the oil slid lower down the stick. The bottom one with the wider spacing between the ground off marks is still also off a 76, my 76 has the wider spaced marks with cross hatching between the marks, yet I have seen 76's with the smaller spaced ones as well. I have no idea why somebody would have ground the original marks off and re notched lower ones, unless they used that stick in something else and just forgot to re-etch the correct markings when they stuck it back in the donk you have.
I did do another oil change yesterday to flush out any remaining nasties. After a few hundred k's from the last change, the oil was a long way from being clean. I did not change the filter on this occasion, will do that in another few hundred k's. I measured 3 ltrs exactly, put that in, and the oil level came up to the high mark on the "new" dipstick. I'm satisfied that I now have the correct dip stick installed.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Ok, The first pipe I was referring to is actually the right hand nipple on the right hand air horn between the Filter box and the right carb (where the little asterisk is). It goes to the hot air flap that you describe. The other nipple connects to a pipe that goes under the heater box off the cross pipe (in blue in the pic). ( You will not have the thick blue section that goes down to the fan housing from the join, nor any of the red piping) This diagram has a few more pipes than usual as it is an american one with emmision control. The 1972 only reference is once again only for americans. We still have it on all the carb engines. Hope that helps a bit. Adrian