Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Oct 10, 2016.
It's under warranty - so if it goes bang - i'd prefer it to happen sooner rather than later!!
Do some k's and see if it rattles.. See you at DOVW?? Should arrange a Kombiclub gathering?
Yeh, I should be there - but I reckon I'll be driving the Squareback!
I replaced the oil pressure switch and have taken the bus for a 30 min freeway drive. No more idle light so far at lights after getting off the freeway.
Hopefully it was just a faulty switch. The light does seem to stay on for half a second longer than I'm used to on start up - maybe i'm just being overly paranoid there.
That sounds very promising.
A pressure gauge reading from a tested gauge would be my next step
The quality of some of those switches is pretty questionable. In my experience the new pressure operated brake switches seem to not last very long. I wonder if it is a similar case with the oil pressure senders.
Agree with Adrian.
Bit like the ford power steering switches that got bought by the boxload.
Usual fail is at the crimp as well and dumps oil on top of engine.
Second Barry's suggestion to have a proper pressure test.
That way you wont be double guessing the light .
Rely on the test results, not the idiot light.
It is just to indicate a major fail.
(or low oil on corners if you let it get that low )
Did about 120km on the freeway on the weekend - as soon as I got off at the first set of lights - oil light was on. It was pulsing at exactly the same speed as the idle of the engine. Any sort of pressure on the throttle turns the oil light off.
It doesn't sound like it's idling low at all - but possibly an increase in idle speed would fix this... which check with the a tach.
Just wondering if the $40 universal oil pressure gauges at Supercheap auto would be sufficient for testing the oil pressure of the engine?
Checked oil level when the light came on and there was exactly the right amount of oil in the engine - right at the top line.
Still no noticeable engine noises. Got us there and back (approx 300km all up) without any issues - other than oil light at idle.
However I'm still suspecting that the engine is running slightly hotter than it should be. Will have to plug my oil thermometer back in and test it out.
I've just read your post. Have you got any added gauges. Why I asked when the builder (I'm assuming ) pulled the engine out ,when he rebuild it he put it back. Is there any chance that wires have been crossed ,somehow. If you had a tacho it depends where the power was taken from might affect oil light. I had extra gauges added to the car before I bought it ,I had a pressure gauge and oil temp gauge .Problem was they had put them into a H pattern connector ,therefore nether gauges was working correctly as they were reading each other signal from rear to front. Just a thought for you to chase if you have extras added to the car. As electrical problems are hard to track down.
The engine builder pulled my temp sensor dipstick out and tied it up out of the way because he preferred the original dipstick. I tried to put it back into the engine the other day but it started sparking when it touched the engine!
Wonder if that has something to do with it??
If it doesn't then it definitely needs to be looked at.
Definitely should not spark!
The dipstick I have experienced dipstick sender should have 2 wires on them. One is connected to ground and the other is the lead from the gauge (usually carrying a voltage). Check that is what you have and then check to make sure the ground lead has a low resistance to the negative on the battery, and that the earth strap from the drive train to the body (on the gearbox) is fitted. There should be almost no resistance from the metal of the engine to the negative post on the battery or from the dipstick case to the engine or the battery. If it isnt, the metal of the case of the dipstick and the metal on the engine will have a different potential (maybe on a few volts) and give you a spark.
The point I am trying to make here is either the engine or the dipstick is at a higher voltage than the earth of the battery. Current will try to flow in one direction from higher potential to ground. you need to find which one is the higher one and why, which is normally a poor electrical connection.
Wow, not having much luck..
Fairly certain you have a pressure problem, need a test gauge to confirm and should be done by an independent workshop as a first point of contact.
Ive run motors for 1000's km 1 litre+ down and never any idiot light issues, hot pressure @3000rpm 60+PSI and hot idle (Engine with thermostat) pressure after highway run always 15-20 PSI on a 15w-40 oil. Billet HV Type 4 pumps I have these days are good for 0-40 oil also, achieve 15PSI Idle, 60PSI hot pressure @3000rpm and still bounce off the relief valve(70PSI) when cold.
Something is either missing/ excessive clearances or the oil pickup/pump low pressure side is pulling in air and there are factory installed o-rings to prevent this when they are in place and in good shape.
Welcome back Andrew!
Thanks Andrew. Engine is going back to the engine builder next week for a looking over incl a oil pressure check. He's a lovely bloke and has 20-30 years experience building these engines, so I have no reason at all to doubt him. He's agreed to sort it out under warranty. We were hoping it wasn't going to result in dismantling the engine again, but it looks like that's what it's going to come down to - once he's done the pressure test.
I can only assume that because the problem occurs after a freeway run that there is something like a crack inside the engine that is expanding when the engine heats up.
According to the builder the machine shop has measured everything multiple times to ensure it's within spec to avoid this happening again. but unfortunately it has.
All that said - I've done a few long drives - eg Melbourne to Wye River and back and the ONLY issue is that the red oil light comes on at idle after a freeway run. I dont hear any funny noises at all - no grinding, no knocking, nothing!
The plan is, if it fails the oil pressure test - to do the build again - this time with a different case.
Oil cooler and oil pump was already swapped out previously to ensure these weren't part of the problem.
Weird thing is - that before the engine was rebuilt and case machined - I never had a problem with the oil light coming on - ever!
Now that it's rebuilt is when the oil light is coming on.
Something else to note is that the first time the engine was rebuilt - I was running it in at high rev's and is pi$$ed out oil from the flywheel end.
So, I stopped the engine and had it towed to the builder for review. He confirmed bearings were shot and must have been no oil pressure.
He rebuilt and bench tested and virtually same thing happened - bearings starved for oil. He could hear it.
So, this is actually the third build, which we thought was all ok - until the freeway drives and redlight at idle.
Lucky I picked a good builder who stands by his work and is happy to sort it out for me.
Just a shame we miss out on another summer of camping.
Personal call would be after a thorough test with calibrated equipment , fit quality calibrated pressure and temp guages and plot numbers when problem exibits.
Confirm that you do have an issue first.
No aftermarket oil coolers etc fitted?
have ruled out the sender for one thing - as it's a new one that I've installed... unless its an electrical issue somewhere.
Builder will do the tests - save me forking out for and installing gauges/senders, etc.
However, if he says there's no problem - i would consider installing a gauge to monitor pressure just in case.
Everything is stock-ish. No additional coolers or anything.
Only difference to stock is it has 1800 heads on 2L cylinders (for bigger valves apparently?)
Builder recommended this and to resolve any difference in deck height he has added lash caps....
I'm sure that's a can of worms right there for people's preferences - but i dont think that would affect oil pressure?
Sender being new means nothing.
Plenty of new parts out of the box that are faulty.
No issues with heads.
The reason for tested guages is to give an accurate reading when the problem presents.
Its a confirmation by calibrated equipment that a problem exists .
Cross regerencing temp and pressure may confirm or indicate issues.
Also maybe it wont.
But its a first step (after a basic pressure test without fault exibiting) in my view to establish without second guessing that a problem exists and some accurate info for the builder to work with.
Likely you can leave the builders test gear connected and go for a hwy run if the issue presents with regularity.
I think I'd have to be very, very, very unlucky (or lucky) though to have 2 builds fail due to oil pressure issues and then on the 3rd build the existing oil sender is faulty and then the new one out of the box is also faulty.
I'll wait and see what the builder suggests once we've plugged in his oil pressure tester.
It's covered under warranty - so at this point the only thing it will cost me is time.
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