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Freshly rebuilt engine - Oil light on!

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Oct 10, 2016.

  1. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,301
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Depends what is out of adjustment. Sender range should be 10 to 73 Ohm. The gauge and voltage regulator are calibrated on production. The VR has an adjustment screw to produce a voltage output and the gauge has 2 adjustments, one for the range and one for the zero position. All are very delicate adjustments! I figure that empty is the important end of the fuel gauge reading and I live with a not quite full reading.
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2018
    Chidori and paul77 like this.
  2. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Unfortunately, the gauge shows just over half full when full. That leaves about 1/2 a tank of unknown.
    Does the sender have to be removed from the tank to be adjusted or is the adjustment on the top of the sender?

    Thanks!
     
  3. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,301
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Sender is calibrated by bending the float arm and adjusting the stops. Not something you can do unless you know the parameters. As previously should give ohm output 10 to 73 ohm over full travel.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
    Chidori likes this.
  4. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Did the first oil change in the new engine last night. Whsts everyone's thoughts on the gunk and dark coloured oil? I assume the gunk is just sealant etc that was used during the build?


    [​IMG] https://photos.app.goo.gl/KvSqg08NNAmDzEPf1
     
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,842
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Strange photo format.
     
  6. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Haha, I can create a link directly from my phone to the photos I have taken as they sit on the google server.
    Haven't worked out how to imbed the photos yet.

    I believe the format is 4:3.
     
  7. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,603
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    I just use "snipping tool" - copy - paste

    upload_2018-2-8_10-51-39.png
     
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  8. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,603
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    The gunk isn't shiny - so not metallic / bearing?

    What does it feel like?
    Would rather not see it there
     
  9. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,842
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Rubbery bits will be extruded sealant.
    Crunchy bits that break between fingers and often look like bits of circle usualy valve guide seals but not normally or needing to be fitted.
    Hard metal bits nasty warning.
    Expect a heavy film of fine metallic grey deposit on plate. Its bearing material .certain amount normal wear.
    Oil looks quite black,?
    Shouldn't be on a new engine.
    Is engine running rich?
    Check plugs and exhaust.

    First change?

    One would have been done after start up bed in and at 500km ?

    This your first one at 5k km?

    Should be done by installer so no excuses if goes belly up but builder seems to have backed work ok so far
     
  10. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    It was rather sludgey... I thought it might be sealant.
    Yeh, this was the 500km oil change - we really haven't clocked up too many k's or gone to far in it to make sure it was running ok.
    I imagine the builder did one at start up after initial run in. Who knows.
    I wonder what would cause it to be so black. This is a 'replacement' case... not my original case that I gave to him.

    Not sure if it was running rich - engine builder had some sh!tty carbs on there because he misplaced mine for a long time. It also had a 009 dizzy on it because he misplaced my OG one as well.
    I've got my parts back now and they've all been tuned down at VW Performance earlier this week (didnt want to risk it myself on such a new engine - would have done it myself on the old one) and it seems to be running better than it was with the dodgy carbs/dizzy that were in it from the builder.

    Unfortunately the builder is about 100km from home and I've done that drive way too many times over the last 2 years to go there for a oil change.

    I saw just a few small flakes of shiny metal like you would see when gold panning at sovereign hill, but nothing too nasty looking.
     
  11. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,842
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Did the builder also do last install.?
    Especially given engine history I would have driven the 100km.
    And same for first 5k change.
    Tappets and all mounting bolts should be checked as well.
    Don't alter tappets. Just check gaps..
    Oil should have been clean other than any odd bits. And they should be few.
    Your bits of ' gold ' are just normal.

    All my expectations anyway.
    Others may view it differently.

    I would do a 2k change for follow up comparison.
    Just because ;)
     
  12. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Yeh, I agree on the 2k change... can't hurt.

    Yeh, engine builder did last install.
    I'm VERY reluctant to ever take my bus back there.... everything progresses slower than lava there with no updates from him unless I chase him. At least I have my bus for the remainder of the nice weather now. If i took it back for an oil change - i hate to think of when i would see it next.

    He didn't ask for the bus back to do an oil change and it wasn't a requirement of the warranty that i bring it back to him.
    I checked the tappets the other day and all was good there too - there wasn't any need to change them.

    Which mounting bolts do you mean? engine to transmission? moustache bar? Or just everything? :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2018
  13. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    just read some posts on another forum and somebody suggested assembly lube could cause the change in oil colour??
     
  14. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,842
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Yeah. Case not properly cleaned was a thought but wouldn't expect it , especially given prior issues.
    Oil cooler ?

    Expect most of the gunk in oil is silicone. Don't want that blocking a gallery.
    Any signs aviation gasket goo has been used? It dissolves with alcohol. Don't know re oil.
    Most lubes are clear ish.

    Tempted do change at 1k again and ensure new filter and clean screen/ plate again.

    After that 5k.
    Should settle down?

    Bolts.
    Just a once over to check most things associated with install.
    Engine mounts, support bar, earth cables, battery, Alt, carb to manifolds and heads, exhaust.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2018
  15. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Sheesh... you still on this?
     
  16. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Basic run in... from a freshly built motor... Run in oil.. 1/2 hour including bed in of a new cam and initial valve clearance adjustment.... then dump it with all assembly lube. Then refill with run in oil...run for 500km.. load the motor up...hills...start/stops.. but no sustained speed over 80kmhr.... then dump it.. then fill with good oil.. not penrite or ace 30.. or any of other local rubbish..
     
  17. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    oil filters changed with all oil changes. If the motor were built with care.. excessive sealant will not be evident.
     
  18. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Unfortunately we aren't all Volkswagen Savants like you 1500! ;)

    Well the mechanic did the run in and I just finished the 500km oil change, plus checked tappets, timing and carb mixtures.

    What are your thoughts 1500 on the dark oil and chunkiness of it?
     
  19. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    I'm thinking it might be worth sticking my USB endoscope camera into the block... maybe via the oil breather to see what I can see?
     
  20. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    885
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    For comparison - here's a photo after the first rebuild that went t!ts up, due to low oil pressure. There were definitely more metal flakes in there but not as much gunk. Oil was much cleaner too. upload_2018-2-9_7-48-45.png
     

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