Freshly rebuilt engine - Oil light on!

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Chidori, Oct 10, 2016.

  1. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    What brand and weight do you recommend for a new engine, and which for an engine with hi miles?
     
  2. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Finally got to chat to Engine Builder... he reckons it's assembly grease.
     
  3. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Ok... the man of many questions is back...

    When checking the carbs last night to make sure all was balanced ok... I noticed that with the air cleaner horns off, it was getting quite 'fumey' in the engine bay (nothing to do with the curry for lunch I swear!)

    Anyway - i noticed a decent amount of fumes / smoke coming from the air cleaner... is this normal? Especially on a new engine?
    I tried to video record what I could see... the smell is quite strong...

    Video:
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/3VBU8kHMNQKmwkPv2

    any ideas?
     
  4. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,342
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Video seems good to me - couldn't see any smoke that would concern me?
     
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,644
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Assume its from crank breather hose?

    Give engine some hard runs up hills to help the rings bed. Don't over rev tho.

    Not oil on heater boxes?
     
  6. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Awesome. So I should be expecting to see some fumes/smokiness coming out of there?
     
  7. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Did lots of hills on the way to and from Wilson's prom on the weekend.

    Yeh I'd say from breather hose.
    I don't think there would be any oil on the heater boxes. I'll check!
     
  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,644
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Just sounds like rings not bedded yet.
    No big deal.
    Takes about 8k km ish.?

    Trick on hills is not light throttle and revs as per normal driving method but 3rd gear 2200 rpm and floor it to about 3k revs ,back off n repeat few times
    Puts pressure on rings plus a bit if heat. Needs doing when engine fairly fresh. Usualy around 100km
    Or before the 500km oil change.

    That my pick anyway;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
    Sahara Hilton and Chidori like this.
  9. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,503
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Bearing clearances are for nothing more than a 20w-50. If you have a bigger oil pump you can run a thinner oil and still keep good pressure.

    By the time you are getting to a motor that is breathing/ worn rings and guide and smokey, then you can try heavier, like 20w-60.. but days are numbered on the motor when they are there.

    I've been using synthetics of well over a decade.

    Firstly, an oil that would fit the additive profile and viscosity for the motor, I started using Mobil-1 V-Twin Motorcycle oil-20w-50, SJ API spec.

    As support for oils grew for the Type IV, I also now use Driven DT-50 15W-50.

    They are the only two I use. Both exceptionally fluid over anything mineral for cold starts and getting oil around the motor when cold for less wear, thermally stable to much higher temps than minerals.

    Thats just my experience from over the years. I have used Brad Penn #1 Green oil(mineral), which is good for motors with low tension rings(race only) as the synthetics can be a little too slippery for them.

    The synthetics I fave found to be exceptionally clingy too and great if you are driving periodically where you start up from a period of sitting and the bearings still have a good film on them.

    I use a high zinc running in oil (Driven BR 20-50) for running in a new motor.
     
  10. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,503
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    ..So..why not dump the oil after initial bed in??? that rubbish should have not ever made it to you..... amateur IMHO. You serious???... Sheesh..
     
  11. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    hi 1500king, are you using a full synthetic oil or part, i am currently using part synthetic {Nulon } but not sure how air cooled engines will perform ,there was a noticeable difference when i went from mineral to part synth ,is full synth ok for long sustained runs .will it get ,does the viscosity go haywire with higher temps ,especially around the heads where the temp is extreme .
     
  12. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Engine seems to be using a lot of oil though...
    After a 3 hour drive... the oil dropped from just over the full mark to right on the low mark. Engine was on flat ground when checked both times. There is a minor oil leak - yet to find the source yet... somewhere down the fan end - possibly dipstick seal. But i wouldn't have thought it was bad enough to leak that much oil... i've only seen a few spots when parked up after a drive. I will have to have a closer look as soon as I can.
     
  13. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,342
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Will burn a bit until the rings bed in
     
    Chidori likes this.
  14. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,220
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Top end rebuild now about 500km. No oil leaks. Very little oil use. No visible smoke/fumes.
    Getting me worried that there should be more indication of 'bedding in' rings.
    Engine working really well.
     
    Chidori and rstucke like this.
  15. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    481
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    looks like you're on your way to a long life engine;)
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2018
  16. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,503
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    I use a full synthetic. They are more stable at high temps.
     
  17. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust

    Ok ta , do you see any difference in oil temp ; ie ; higher or lower,than you would get using mineral oil.
    Chris
     
  18. Chidori

    Chidori Active Member

    Messages:
    868
    Location:
    Fitzroy, VIC
    Wanna swap? :)
     
  19. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,220
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Daunting to read about you ordeal Chidori. Hope it's sorted soon so you can enjoy the ride.
     
    Chidori likes this.
  20. chris taylor

    chris taylor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,345
    Location:
    adelaide sth aust
    Still asking questions regards the suitability of full synthetic engine oils for aircooled engines ,and have come across a site in the USA at www.aircooled.net ,a good read.
     

Share This Page