Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by gussusbus, Aug 15, 2017.
Are you making a neologism?
Well this thread suddenly headed off in a bizarre direction - obviously some good 'fuel' to be 'pumped' around the forum
Hi Gordon D,
Got a fuel leak problem? I can spell 'syncro' for you. I've been practicing !
Check participants involved. Will help you understand the personality of the member you'll meet one day! For some it's all serious & for others it's fun & then there's the ones that fit between those.
With all this talk of syncro's, why are they still referred to as 4WD?
Back on the original topic, be going through a heap of hose clamps options recently. Got a couple of the original (on T3, EFI) crimp on clips which work well, but decided no to go that way, fitted these instead. Brand is Norma
Image with the two clamps, the one on the left is a std hose clamp, on the right is what I have used on the EFI
That sure beats the 'flat edge' on 'small pipe' that others speak of. Nice choice.
One of the biggest issues is hose clamps are stated as covering a wide range of sizes. It's best to work to the largest size they are rated to do (once tightened up). This becomes more important the smaller the hose.
Off topic a little, but with coolant pipes, factory original (T3's) is a "spring band clamp", which work well and allow for expansion/contraction with temperature change. Careful though, after market ones the quality does vary.
You can also get a worm drive hose clamp with a built in "spring" or constant tension clamp.
Norma brand look like good quality, Wurth also make them (and again look good), both brands seem to be available locally, just not in all sizes needed for T3's
These clamps are brilliant they are a full circle and clamp securely they can be released with a twist of a screwdriver.
I buy them from Pirtek.
Very cool, Look similar to the factory crimp on ones (on T3 EFI).
Hi team. A have a couple of fuel line questions, so I thought I'd continue this thread. I'm fixing a small drip coming from the section of line from fuel pump to tee. (And don't worry I'll replace the 2 tee-to-carby lines while I'm at it!). Ratwell's page on this has been very handy.
First question - has anyone seen these kind of clamps before? I would hate to think they are original 1975 factory ones !! It's like they are crimped on, so here I am picking at them with tin snips or whatever I can think of, so far to little effect. But I don't fancy I'll get these buggers off easily without busting the tee. Now, I REALLY should replace the plastic tee with a metal one, so my real question probably should be does anyone know where to get a metal one?
Second question - Ratwell suggests a larger hose (7mm) for that short section between filter and fuel pump. I already replaced that existing 5.5mm hose with another 5.5mm one before I read this. Does this smaller hose size restrict fuel supply / performance? I'm always looking for a little more engine oomph
Micky, they are the original factory style clamps. They work very well but are a bit of a pain.
From the factory if you had an 1800 engine, there would have been a 7mm fuel line from the tank to the pump inlet. From the pump outlet to the tee would have been a 5.5mm line.
It did not come with a fuel filter from the factory other than a strainer in the tank.
Cut the clamps off with sidecutters and use new ones. Do not use worm drive clamps. ABA make some very good reuseable clamps and those Pirtek look good.
OK thanks Phill. Sorry I should have mentioned it is a 2L. Does that change anything?
The sections are:
tank to filter (5.5mm)
filter to pump (5.5mm but Ratwell recommends 7mm)
pump to tee (5.5mm)
tee to carbies (5.5mm)
Yeah sidecutters is what I have been using - I just didn't know that's what they were called . It's slow going because you need dainty small ones to get the access, but the clamps are made of quite thick metal.
Originally it would have been an 1800 which has the same fuel line arrangement as a 2 litre anyway, unless it is fuel injected.
Ratwell is another country and they are talking about injected engines. They didn't have twin carb 2 litre engines.
Your tank outlet should be 7mm unless maybe it was originally a 1600????? Do you have a hatch above the engine?
It's a 1975, and I'm pretty sure it came out of the factory as a 2L and still has original engine. Others may know more, but there were twin carb 2L models before fuel injection - I have two of them. (Btw that Ratwell link above does deal with twin carbs - you just have to scroll down a bit. I like Ratwell because he does RHD!) But anyway, with a lot of persistence I have now replaced 2 hoses and fixed the drip. It took ages getting the old clamps off the tee, threading the new hose through the little hole in the fire wall, and especially pulling out the entire air filter set-up so I could see what the hell I was doing! Also I misremembered - there IS a 7mm hose in the right place.
For hose clamps I had to improvise a bunch sourced from the local lawn mower bloke - it's a temporary solution and I'd like to swap them for good quality ones asap. The local Repco only sells cheap rubbish clamps, and not small enough anyway. Any ideas where I can get the good 'uns? Also a brass tee?
2 litre didn't come out in Australia until '76.
Oh yeah that makes sense. My other one's a 76. I'd better examine the provenance of my 75 more closely ...
Give us the chassis number and the engine number and I'll give you the dates.
You can go to a pneumatic hose place and get a 3/16 barbed tee in brass for around $5. Get rid of the plastic one, especially if it is that old. Another nasty point of failure you can do with out.
I'm keen to see what you think.
Chassis/VIN 226 2 116 132
Date on the VIN plate is 6/75, even though the 3rd digit in the VIN implies from August 1975 to July 1976. So maybe it could be an origional 2L?
No this is not the USA. '76 models were January to December. You do not have a German VW. It was made in Australia.
Engine was built around November December 1976. These engines were not produced before 8/76.
Chassis/VIN does not sound correct. Check the chassis number stamped on the body (not the tag). Check the chassis number on your rego papers. Check the chassis number on the Australian compliance plate. I think that the chassis number should start with 215........ (Maybe a Kombi owner here could confirm this)
Do you know what colour the car was originally? (From the dulux sticker)
Separate names with a comma.