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Hard to get into 1st

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Jason Smith, Mar 5, 2019.

  1. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Hi all. Gearbox has a lot of play that hasn’t been a issue BUT I have noticed after highway driving it is sometimes hard to get into 1st at a complete stop.
    Remained of gears are no worries changing into and no noises.
    1 to reduce play is it just the bushes? How hard are these to replace?
    2 trying to sort out 1st gear. Any ideas of why this could be happening. Not all the time FYI

    Cheers
     
  2. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,925
    Location:
    Seven hills
    To replace the bushes in the gear shaft tunnel it is a motor, gear box out job to replace them. There is also a bush at the front underneath where the shaft coming from the rear ends up the front ,it depends on your year model what bush you will need but the removal of gear stick and the front section of gear shaft under the car is all to be able to replace the bush in the front.
    It could be sector plate under the gear stick but if it is only first I wouldn't think it wouldn't be that.but could be.
    Depends on age of gearbox since or hasn't been rebuild it could be the selector in the box is worn and playing up.
     
    David H likes this.
  3. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    497
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hi Jason...as per Wayne's post - the front nylon bush is reasonably easy to do and usually the one that goes first

    ..sometimes sliding the stick backwards into 2nd before pushing forward into 1st works on an old gearbox

    Old gearboxes usually benefit from a squeeze of Nulon G70 (smooth shift) into the filler hole.
     
  4. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks all. Booked into mechanic to get a part installed so will get him to have a look. Cheers
     
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,753
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Front Bush and rear joint account for most of play which will usually fixes selection issue as well once base plate readjusted.
     
  6. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks cbus. Hopefully the mechanic can do the bushes tomorrow at the same time. Do you know roughly how long it takes to do these bushes?
     
  7. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,753
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Dead easy on a hoist.
    The original design for front can be fitted without removing gearstick although it's prob as easy to remove it.
    If there is considerable wear to the metal then you might need a " home fix" .
    Some cut a nylon breadboard to act as a bush is one option.
    Works well but a bit more time involved to make it.
    I had a solid bush turned up at work that slid into place and screws from front.

    If stock part allow roughly 1/2 hr to fit and adjust as an average.

    Rear easy as long as nothing extra needed.
    Prob 1/2 hr max.
    Recon I could do it in 15 min on hoist.

    If rear metal parts are ok then it's ok to just replace the blocks.

    I modify mine to take a 10mm machine bolt and nylock nut rather than the screw / sleeve arrangement in factory part.
    Removes a bit more slop.
     
  8. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks champ will see what he can do when I see him tomorrow.
    Since I have your attention haha. I found a pet of the fuel breather pipe that had come loose from a connection just left of engine hatch. I have noticed a bit of fuel smell out of left air vent on bus. Would this be the culprit? The elbow by spare wheel well is fine.
     
  9. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,753
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Definately possibility.
    Check all your joins ( as per manual or ratwell site)
    Replace with correct fit efi fuel line.
    The ones behind firewall are usually ok.

    If concerned about them buy a remote camera off eBay to fit your phone for under $20.
    Same as $70 ? at Supercheap :)

    Have a check of all your fuel lines as well if not already done.
    Check carbs for weeping.
    Have mechanic check the screws holding top to base of carb, dripping from accelerator pump lever on carb, nuts to manifolds, that fuel spiggot into carb is tight. Have it tie wired.

    I have strong preference for modern efi hose of correct size rather than braided.
    Don't use cheap clamps.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2019
  10. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Cheers mate I have also noticed that the T piece in centre of engine bay run I g along the top there is a piece that is t connected to anything g? Is this right? It’s the pet of the T facing the actual engine
     
  11. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,753
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    All has to join somewhere but can't remember without checking.
    Quite often bits missing.
    Check ratwell.
    http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html
    Ask again if no luck and I'll check mine.
    On carbs it may go to filter box lid ?
     
  12. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Mate looked everywhere and can’t see where it goes to. Are you able to have a look and advise?
     
  13. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    497
    Location:
    Canberra
    hose goes to air filter --- sometimes via a charcoal canister --- it's where all the petrol tank vent hoses end up
     
  14. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks mate. Looking through the manual so hopefully I can find out where it goes haha
     
  15. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    On the below photo where the arrow is pointing. There is a gap there on both carnies. When engine is turned off should there be a gap?
     

    Attached Files:

  16. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    497
    Location:
    Canberra
    usually straight into the top of the centre piece of the air filter - sometimes an adaptor (bit of rubber hose?) is needed because of change of diameter

    IMG_20190306_134315.jpg

    or it might go via a charcoal canister like this
    IMG_20190306_134331.jpg
     
    David H, Wayne murray and cbus like this.
  17. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    497
    Location:
    Canberra
    Hard to see from photo - Is that a gap or are you looking at the thick cardboard gasket?
     
  18. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    I think it may be the throttle arm? Is it suppose to be hard against the base play or a gap between the 2?
     
  19. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    497
    Location:
    Canberra
    oh, there - yes that's supposed to have a gap - and the gap is bigger when the engine is cold and the choke pulls the throttle arm around
     
  20. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    142
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    I do have a point on top of the air filter case which has a cap on it that can be removed. Might see what the mechanic says tomorrow. I can’t seem to find anywhere else for it to go and hope it may be the answer of the fuel smell.
    I had a feeling that maybe the accelerator or something g maybe slightly open when turned off
     

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