Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Mr Beckstar, Apr 5, 2017.
My second "Oh My" to you & the best of good fortune but why the box also?
There are a couple of oil leaks around the drive shaft flanges and the housing so I want to have a good look over that. Much easier for an old fart like me when it’s out of the bus rather than trying to see (with blurry eyes at close range) up under dark bus.
Also, the automatic was just fully rebuilt and I want to be certain I don’t cause any damage to the automatic oil pump when reconnecting to engine. With it outside the bus I can easily see what’s going on and have better control.
Lastly, I’ve read in plenty of places it’s just as easy to remove motor and gearbox as it is to remove motor only so in that case it’s a no brainer when the above is considered.
Gotcha...totally understand now. I've got old eyes also . & yeah not much extra miles to go so why not.
What b**tard didn't replace them with gear box overhaul? Or has all that heat buggered them?
No Dave it wasn't a b**tard. The automatic is different to a manual. Whilst the manual gearbox is kind of all one housing, the auto gearbox has a separate housing for the gearbox/valving/clutch packs versus the final drive/differential housing. I'm sure Auto Medic would have been happy to overhaul the final drive too if I had of splashed the cash. However, at the time, I was in a hurry to get Harry registered and on the road so I could make it to Bus Stop at Swansea. Plus, I didn't know where any of the oil leaks were because I literally hadn't driven Harry anywhere. So, all good mate
Here's what I mean. Just the clean bit was overhauled. The drive shaft flanges/seals are on a separate housing.
Here we go with engine and gearbox removal
Gearbox front locating bracket
Engine support brackets
Disconnected both drive shafts at the gearbox.
Removed the left side drive shaft because it was going to foul on the auto transmission dipstick tube
Loosened the two top support bolts and then setup the jacks.
Engine and gearbox out
Where's the rest of your gearbox? Oh... & what's that filler pipe for?
Now's a good time to do a compression test......got to be easier with the engine out...just take 30 mins!
Yeh, I’ve got a leak down tester to check where number 2 is losing pressure. Helping a mate move a lounge in the morning and flying to Perth tomorrow arvo so not sure I’ll get time to check it out until I get back.
Oh well. Harry be there when you get back. At least it won't matter if Sharyn parks him in.
So the leak down with engine cold gave about 29%. Most was coming from crankcase so it would seem it’s cylinder leakage past piston/rings. I could hear a little coming by the exhaust valve but perhaps 5-10% of what was coming from crankcase. Nearly nothing from inlet valve.
Anyone have lots of experience with leak down tests on here? I’m mainly interested whether the exhaust valve leakage warrants taking the head off to ensure I don’t burn or drop a valve.
hmmm perhaps I should take the head off and reseat the valve anyway. I’ve come this far...
If engine is out then easier to do things on it.
When I had the '73 I had a leak down which ended up being caused by LHS inlet manifold gasket (was not the metal type but one off an efi engine which were bakealite ??) it had blown a section out = rings shot SO to save dropping the engine again just did both sides with new new rings and barrels honed & all over clean up, new seals, gaskets, rings etc - exhaust gaskets also Would have saved time and money by only doing 1 side but @ least we got to check everything out and knew more about the engine after it all - 1800 case with 2000 internals.
Yes there’s something to be said for “knowing it’s right”. Especially when the history is a bit unknown. It’s interesting I can see hone marks in the barrel with the endoscope. Might be worth double checking that work in light of the relatively low compression figures.
I plan to take all the tinware off and respray it, so I guess heads and barrels are pretty easy from there huh?
Do it once, do it well....
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