Harry - 1976 Campmobile Adventurer Deluxe 2L Twin Carb Automatic

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Mr Beckstar, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    17,719
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Even though the restorer/engine/transmission builder - one person did the lot he was unable to tell me what was in the engine - when we had to do the flywheel and starter crown drive is when we discovered the case was 1800 so a 2000 flywheel wouldn't fit even though I had sourced a brad new one from a KC member - the leak down was unexpected as builder was a (VW) drag racing champion so knew how to build engines BUT it was only when we pulled it apart did we realise the rings were oversized and mediocre quality and the size we needed well there was only one set to be found in Australia fortunately enough only a couple of days delay while it sat atop old dubbers hoist.
     
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  2. Lenzy

    Lenzy Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Caloundra, Qld
    hi I have a similar looking camper and I also scored a driver's seat with a rail.....did you figure out what it is from as it looks kombi.
     
  3. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Yeh Lenzy I think the driver’s seat is from a T3 whilst passenger’s seat is still original but recovered.
     
  4. Lenzy

    Lenzy Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Caloundra, Qld
    yeah I have one too but ended up fixing my stock one. so got a spare if anyone after it
     
  5. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    The strip down has begun. Here’s some photos.

    BC2005E2-BCE7-4F37-8221-58730795BBD8.jpeg 467FF7AD-DD22-446A-AE17-F20B6E785D36.jpeg BEAF6FB2-23F4-47D4-BBB7-16FB60E50F59.jpeg 9F688D75-7D08-463E-A4EC-FC94B63381A0.jpeg 2182D8E1-53F2-4E02-AF12-89AAFDD2B021.jpeg
     
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  6. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    And here’s the pesky Welch plug that was leaking oil. It turns out it was so loose, it pretty much fell out. The only thing stopping it falling out whilst driving was the fact it was held in by the engine mount bracket.
    6430817A-C54C-4C63-8693-26BA21A4CDCA.jpeg
     
  7. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Anyone know what sort of Welch plug is standard in these motors? I bought a brass Welch plug down at Repco but not sure if VW air cooled motor Welch plugs are different compared to your average Holden red motor.
     
  8. robmich

    robmich Active Member

    Messages:
    505
    Location:
    buff point
    not sure, but do know that brass and alloy will react badly together i would not use it
    Rob
     
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  9. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,808
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    It would be better to get the proper one just to make sure.
     
  10. AC-T3

    AC-T3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    779
    Location:
    Woy Woy
    Go steel.
     
  11. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    What’s the proper one? It’s not mentioned on the JustKampers web store.
     
  12. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,765
    Location:
    newcastle
    Now that's going to reduce oil consumption:p. Don't know the right welch plug but any mix of metals in your alloy case is going to be an anodic argument. My mechanic (new to me) likes to thread these plugs. Did one recently on the front of old boys engine with thread. I seem to remember 1500king also commenting on this.
    Looking good;).
    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
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  13. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    518
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Yes, it dripped oil in only a few minutes after cleaning, and that’s with cold oil!
     
  14. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,591
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Would be interested to see what someone suitably qualified thinks but given that the Al will have an oxide layer, no electrolyte present, plug should be bedded with a permenant locktite or epoxy then epoxy sealed ( if not tapping and using threaded plug) then I wouldn't expect a significant issue. ??
     
  15. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,765
    Location:
    newcastle
    From the inside.....but there is always the outside:p.
    Cheers
     
  16. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,591
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    B
    Best of luck with it remaining on a hot ( often oily) case ;)
     
  17. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,765
    Location:
    newcastle
    Just need to connect some copper to some zinc & run the 1.5v light until the zinc disappears. No electrolyte (or battery) needed;).
    Sorry for the thread hijack MrBeckstar:oops:.
    Merry Christmas All:D
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
  18. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,591
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    If the zinc is in contact with the copper then where does the bulb sit?
    If you create a circuit using wire then the wire has same function as electrolyte
     
  19. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,765
    Location:
    newcastle
    The bulb just shows anodic argument. Use a thin wire to the bulb if you wish;) & the bulb will stop sooner as the wire will leave town first:D
    Between the two & metals not in contact other than thru the wire. It glows & shows there is an anodic disparity & will do so until the end of one of the metals in the contact circuit!:rolleyes:. Light bulb for display purposes only:D. To illuminate the disparate energy problem;).

    Cheers
     
    Last edited: Dec 21, 2017
  20. Jethro

    Jethro Active Member

    Messages:
    155
    Location:
    North West Sydney
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