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Headlight switch testing

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Ian and Shelley, Nov 30, 2018.

  1. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,705
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Type_2_-1800_from_August_1973-4.jpg

    Alternately, you may have a broken or damaged wire in the black and yellow which feeds the relay and then to the low/high beam globes. With the relay out you should be able to check for continuity or a 12 v supply at the relay end with the switch full on with the ignition.

    Adrian
     
  2. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Member

    Messages:
    83
    Location:
    Umina Beach
     
  3. Ian and Shelley

    Ian and Shelley Member

    Messages:
    83
    Location:
    Umina Beach
    Alternately, you may have a broken or damaged wire in the black and yellow which feeds the relay and then to the low/high beam globes. With the relay out you should be able to check for continuity or a 12 v supply at the relay end with the switch full on with the ignition.

    12 V at black yello wire at fuse 10 counting left to right..and 12 V all way back to ignition

    At relay I have 12V to red wire, brown/grey wire and white / black wire..

    No Volts to yellow or white..from relay

    Are we looking at bust relay?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2018
  4. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,705
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    OK, yes Park is one click. Without volts on the grey, sounds like the switch may have a burnt out contact. ( you say voltage on all with full on and ign on but it is hard to confirm whether the grey is on or not at this time as it shouldn't be if not on before). Could we be looking at a mod some one has done to make sure when the ign off the the park lights are as well? Just putting it out there. Maybe and added bit of wiring with a relay that is not working?

    You can prove the park lights are working by carefully connecting the red to the grey. A piece of wire touching both connectors will do. That should at least give you voltage on fuses 1 and 2 and if the park lights are connected you should get them too. If you have a multi meter it is safer to check it with an ohm meter first to see if there is not a short. It should show a few ohms between it and earth. If nothing you are going to blow a fuse. If they work doing this it is likely that the switch is faulty. If no park lights but voltage at the fuses, there is problem between the fuses and the lights.

    I have the cover for the fuse box, and there are numbers on it that correspond to the german diagram. 1 and 2 are marked with 58 which corresponds on the light switch for the grey for the park lights. 56 b and a on 3&4 and 5&6. 7 is the fresh air fans at the front.

    At the relay for the headlights you should be able to workout the numbers for the terminals. 30 will be 12v. If you pull the relay out there are 4 terminals arranged in a square and one off the the left. If you are looking at it that way around, the one on its own is 30. 56 is the top, 56a and 56 b are either side of the middle and S is at the bottom. 30 should have 12v on it all the time, but 56 should be only 12v when the headlights are on(black and yellow cable) There should be a connection between 56 a and fuses 5 and 6 and between 56b and fuses 3 and 4. S should be an earth when you operate the dip switch. The relay itself it a work of art as it has a little lever that switches from high to low each time the dip switch is operated. As a result you will never get voltage on fuses S3, 4, 5 and 6 at the same time. only 3&4 or 5&6. To change from one to the other pull the dip switch.

    If all that checks out find all the earth points front and rear and double check them. One under the dash on the front panel, one each side of the engine bay rear hatch opening, one each around the headlights possibly behind the kick panels. They cause all sorts of issues.

    Good luck

    Adrian
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2018

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