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heat and noise insulation for a van

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Paul Maguire, Sep 6, 2019.

  1. Paul Maguire

    Paul Maguire New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Elderslie via Branxton, nsw
    Hi I'm new to all this ... in every way.
    I'm seeking practical advice about thermal and acoustic insulation for a van that we're intending to have converted into a camper.
    An old machine didn't suit my wife Julie (realistically it was well outside my abilities to do myself or pay for) so we've just bought a new empty VW transporter.
    I want to install insulation before we hand it over to the converter but have received confusing and conflicting information.
    We live in the Hunter Valley and intend to spend a fair bit of time in Canberra (where it gets really cold and really hot) as we have children and grandchildren there.
    Any thoughts on what's been suggested to us would be appreciated.

    Autobarn suggests.
    Van floor to get a Dynamat xtreme coat, plus 16mm ply and vinyl flooring.
    Bottom half of walls to get Dynamat xtreme coat, dynaliner (foam) and carpet-covered ply.
    Top half of walls to get dynaliner then carpet covered ply.
    Fibreglass pop-top to get dynaliner and ply.

    Some people have suggested Thermoshield, a reflective paint on the top of the pop-top (and inside the walls) as it's said to reduce heat by about 40 to 45%. Others say this would not work.
    A spray expanding foam (for heat) has been suggested but others say it clogs everything up and makes it impossible to run wires where necessary.
    We've ruled out fibreglass batts because of their unhealthy dust and breakdown potential.
    "Rockwool" has been suggested but I've never heard of it.

    We live at Elderslie, near Branxton, and could meet anywhere in the region with anyone who may be able to offer advice.
    Thank you, Paul Maguire.
     
  2. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,991
    Location:
    Gosford
    Dont put any house insulation in the van or spray foam as the first will trap water & cause rust and the 2nd is as you have already mentioned cause problems with wiring as well as it could expand too much and cause buckling of panels
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,759
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    As Phil said.
    Definately no " batt" type insulation regardless of fibre.
    They absorb condensation and create rust.
    Observed.

    Have seen lizard skin in a split and impressed with solid sound compared to usual non " proofed" version.

    https://soundproofcentral.com/lizard-skin-dynamat-difference/

    If using Dyna mat then major gain is with centre 1/3 of panel covered.
    After that it's a case of diminishing gains .
    It's heavy stuff.

    My choice for thermal is a closed cell foam that won't hold moisture.
    Not a great difference in R values.
    I would probably pick urethane foam and glue to panels after treating seams with penetrol.

    For max gains thermally check out vacuum panels.
    Serious thermal properties

    http://www.proctorgroup.com.au/thermal-insulation-vip/
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2019
    Paul Maguire likes this.
  4. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    14,849
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    Welcome Paul.
    I removed your phone number - trust me- you don't need the spam texts.

    Have you spoken to the conversion company? They may have some preferences and know what works and doesn't interfere with their installations.
     
    Paul Maguire and cbus like this.
  5. Paul Maguire

    Paul Maguire New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Elderslie via Branxton, nsw
    Thank you very much for all responses to my query.
     
  6. Paul Maguire

    Paul Maguire New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Elderslie via Branxton, nsw
    Thanks Melissa for your advice and removing my phone number. I have spoken to the installer. He was going to put fibreglass batts in the pop-top he installs but won't now. I'll check out the suggestions from others who have replied to me before I do anything. (I wish I had an old machine like the red one in your photo, but the next best thing, a newer one will hopefully do a similar trick, without looking quiet as cool C-: Thanks again, Paul.
     
    melissa likes this.
  7. Paul Maguire

    Paul Maguire New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Elderslie via Branxton, nsw
    Thanks cbus for your thoughts and the link. I'll check it out. Yes, I did wonder about full coverage or not, the effectiveness, cost and weight. Thanks again, Paul.
     
  8. Paul Maguire

    Paul Maguire New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Location:
    Elderslie via Branxton, nsw
    Thanks Phil, and I'll check out the links cbus has sent me, Paul.
     
  9. Jurgen Grossmutter

    Jurgen Grossmutter Active Member

    Messages:
    388
    Location:
    Ipswich
    For sound deadening only a 1/3 of the area. But for heat, the WHOLE ROOF should be done. 60%, 70%, 80% & 90% is pointless as heat will enter at first uninsulated point.
     
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