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Her name is Viv

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Michael.H100, Apr 26, 2020.

  1. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,172
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Don't get dis-heartened .... you've just joined the rest of us with trying to work out a problem with blinkers or the electrics in general.

    Had a cracked housing on the rear RHS light housing on my (ex) T3 SC ..... found a pair @ a swap meet in great condition :D so set about replacing the 2 rears.

    All lights worked fine ..... removed housings and bulb holders then swapped the bulbs into the new bulb holders after checking and cleaning connections .... this is when the LHS decided not to work :( ..... swapped back to original bulb holders ..... now the RHS :confused: ..... checked fuses and relays and cleaned connections = still no joy. Found an old trailer light wiring look so removed it in case it was the cause = nope.

    As the old bulb holder had corrosion and the bulbs old decided to go down the get a set of new bulbs + fuse and relay ..... expense not great ..... put new bulbs in newly acquired bulb holders and re fitted, replace all fuses and relay ..... will they work :oops: ..... we got illumination on all lights as it should be :)

    Moral .... auto electrics is a mongrel of a thing to work out & on :eek: ..... wiring up the turn indicators to blink separate to each other on the fuel gauge in Paddy the Type3 Fastback was a nightmare but once we worked out that in the instrument cluster the lights were on a reverse polarity we got them to work ;) right for right & left for left not both @ once as per original VW design.
     
    Michael.H100 likes this.
  2. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Yes mate it’s only the beginning I believe, it was a bit of a headache swapping bulbs, fuses and jumping from the front to back of van to check the video I was recording to see which lights were/weren’t working, but in the end it was a triumphant feeling getting it all working. So it was a learning experience if anything, good to see everyone help out too, great forum to join :cool:
     
    oldman, KahunaKombi and micklyan like this.
  3. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,172
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Next words of advice - if it ain't broken then don't try to fix it ;)
     
  4. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Thanks for the advice! Will try my best ;)

    Have been busy working on the van in previous weeks. I painted the rims so that they matched and they look so much better now. F81EBCEE-180C-44C2-A451-9874FEAA2E93.jpeg
    38ACA14F-B67C-41A2-8ACB-3D6FDF91F56D.jpeg
    88F7E1FE-C362-4F0E-8875-4D541251A547.jpeg
    I put a plywood floor in, after attacking all the old glue with a wire brush. Painted the floor and the ply to protect it. 6F5F84C0-58CD-4724-ABC9-3353EDC9AD1A.jpeg

    I got the r&r bed back in there, then started setting out the aux battery. Got it installed with a intervolt dc-dc charger. BD387886-63AF-42A7-8614-16FFCD92C7C5.jpeg Got an extra fuse box(not installed in photo) for a few things I’ve got planned, I started with a 12v socket for my new fridge and a dual USB port.
    C0B6BE88-7A78-44D4-9744-4F5832635C21.jpeg EAF8F54F-5E4C-4A65-A957-A1D8304F9618.jpeg
    Took her on a weekend trip down the coast. A54E60EF-FD0C-4836-B154-715F3E95D2DD.jpeg

    Had a bit of trouble with the indicators and the brake lights, sorted them out. Test fitted some driving lights I got off a guy on t3oau fb group. Super stoked on how they look, keen to get them wired up! 94C50B37-7E49-4243-82C4-28DA504F66BF.jpeg
     
  5. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Fiddled around with the indicator and wiper stalks, because whenever I flashed the high beams or tried to rinse the windscreen the horn would sound, so I removed the steering wheel and realised I was missing some screws so I fixed it with some 3mm bolts, got the genius idea from Grantus, worked like a charm bolts were a touch too long but they’ll be right. 45957689-DBA6-4390-82EE-B5F9AD23642F.jpeg 99A10F48-7B5B-4CAA-9046-7EE11FD5E7E2.jpeg 6E142137-177B-4FE0-8899-3021FFD3B8A0.jpeg

    Also, with the photos I’m uploading I need to keep cropping them so they don’t rotate ninety degrees, am I doing something wrong when I’m uploading straight off my phone? Thanks!
     
    Wattie, Syncro27, melissa and 3 others like this.
  6. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,077
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    As I recall, that was what prompted me to investigate and solve the same issue on the Single Cab.

    I actually didn’t mind that feature, coz when some idiot pulled out or cut me off, one action would both switch on high beam, along with the driving lights AND sound the horn, all with one finger......so one less action required from the drivers seat! :D

    However, as it wasn’t a designed factory feature, I changed it back to function independently, as VW intended.
     
  7. General Vee

    General Vee Member

    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    2500
    That sounds a great accessory Grantus! Must have for driving around Sydney..
     
    Grantus likes this.
  8. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,172
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Phones and photos - I've taken in landscape and they save in portrait :confused: ..... no idea why but expect it's not the way the phone/camera is held ..... may have something to do with the software and how it decides it wants to interpret the picture.
    The other thing is that phones as far as I am aware do not have a VGA camera setting for photos so they are always greater than 1MB and thus you need to crop for size which may in turn cause the rotation :rolleyes: ..... if confused just join the rest of us ;)
     
    Michael.H100 likes this.
  9. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Saw a big patch of coolant under the front of the van this morning. 922F20D9-E72E-4772-818D-27B55F2BB6F1.jpeg

    Slithered under to have a look and it had a drip from a hose clamp, gave it a tighten but not sure if that’s going to fix it. I’m not sure if the clamp is in the right spot. Is the end of this tube flat or is there a weird shape to the end of it? Because it looks like the rubber is blown out a bit. 584029FD-F341-442B-9CED-64FA6D2056F7.jpeg

    This could’ve been the result from driving along a very long dirt road on the weekend whilst I was away, I’m hoping there hasn’t been any air sucked into the system. Van drove fine on the way back.
    Cheers
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  10. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,773
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    @Michael.H100

    the original pipes are what you have (PVC or something) and there is a steel insert in the end.
    This rusts and I would suspect this is your problem.
    The pipe goes over both but the clamp is on the steel.

    You can try loosening off and pushing it further down and a 2nd clamp but ideally a set of new stainless pipes is the answer
     
    KahunaKombi, Grantus and Wayne murray like this.
  11. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,773
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
  12. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,773
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
  13. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,617
    Location:
    Gosford
    Your problem is exactly what Barry described. You can either change to S/S pipes at great expense or do a common workaround.
    Disconnect the rubber hose and if the steel insert has just been forced out over the years it can be carefully tapped back in and a pop rivet installed to stop it migrating out again. If the lip has separated from the rest of the plastic pipe, cut the loose bit off and tap the steel insert back in, sometimes need some gentle heat, install a pop rivet as above. The reason this happens is corrosion and constant heat up cool down cycles. The steel insert is important as it stops the end of the pipe crushing when gets hot. Of course you are likely to loose a lot of coolant but if you clamp the rubber hoses you can minimise this. When done keep an eye on it as a failure will cook your motor.
     
  14. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,077
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    I’m also not a fan of those style of hose clamps. The original ones allow for expansion and contraction, while keeping the same clamping pressure, and don’t chew into the rubber,unlike the ones you have.

    upload_2020-7-7_11-38-10.jpeg
     
    Barry and Luckyphil like this.
  15. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Thanks guys, I’ll have to give it a go on the weekend. Where’s the best place to get those type of hose clamps you’ve showed? If I lose a lot of coolant, is it as easy as just topping it back up from the reservoir under the number plate?
     
  16. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,617
    Location:
    Gosford
    You will have to bleed the air out of the system and you fill it from the pressure bottle with the blue (or black) cap. The tank behind the number plate is just an overflow tank and for topping up only. When you have done the job on the pipes you will need to bleed the air out of the system. The less coolant you loose the less air to bleed. Start by opening the bleed bolt on the top left hand of the radiator. Dont take it out just loosen a few turns. Next undo the bleed screw ob the top of the thermostat housing. Turn you heater on full heat. Take the cap off the pressure bottle and get as much coolant in as possible. Replace cap then start the engine and from the engine bay bring the revs up to 2500 to 3000 revs & keep it there. with your other hand or with the assistance of someone else remove the pressure bottle cap and get more coolant in. Dont let the revs drop or the coolant will spew out the pressure bottle. when you feel you cant get any more in put the cap on and let idle till the radiator fan comes on. Monitor the bleed bolt on the radiator and as soon as no more air is coming out then you can tighten it back up. Turn heater off and tighten the bleed screw on the thermostat housing. Take for a drive and when you get back leave it idling & take the grill back off nab "burp" the radiator. To do that you slightly crack the bleed bolt to release any trapped air. Do this several times & I like to do it again in a few days till no air comes out. Make sure you check the overflow bottle and fill it between 1/2 to 3/4 with proper coolant, I use Nulon red from SCA. Reuse the current clamps till you can get the proper ones
     
  17. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,172
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
  18. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,773
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Ooops :confused:

    :D
     
  19. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,172
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Nearly ooops also Barry as there is a 32mm one as well :eek:.
     
  20. Michael.H100

    Michael.H100 Member

    Messages:
    53
    Location:
    SYDNEY
    Thanks guys, I’m going to have to get onto it sometime this week, this weekend has gone too quick
     

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