1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Hot Foot Syndrome

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by rowansnow, Nov 25, 2019.

  1. rowansnow

    rowansnow Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Australia
    I have used some Roof Flashing Tape to try and stop heat radiating from around the new Radiator. I used - Aluminium backed with rubber/butyl adhesive used for weather sealing joints and seams around the radiator before I changed it. I dont think it worked though I still notice radiant heat from the floor. Its a Syncro..

    Also some hot air coming in on the feet with the controls in the off position.

    Any advice on that?

    Cheers

    Rowan
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 25, 2019
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,590
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Don’t think roof flashing has much thermal properties.
    Might be better with some Armaflex sheets.
    Like the black foam on fridge pipes?

    I find air always come out - it’s either up or down.
    Believe it’s the foam on the flaps?
    You can get a kit from somewhere that shuts off air coming in the vent behind the head light grille.

    The hot air is your valve not shutting off properly.

    It is either the wire has kinked or the valve is jammed

    Simple solution is a fuel clamp on the inlet heater pipe in summer
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2019
  3. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    Caravelle floor insulation helps a lot but wont work well under rubber mats. I wouldn't use a fuel clamp as it will eventually stuff the hose. I put an inline valve in my heater feed hose up under the clam shell, works great just switch it on or off depending on time of year. You can put it in behind the vent cover just in front of the gear stick so it can be reached without getting under the van. My problem is caused by the heater valve not shutting off completely due to the control cable not allowing enough movement due to my custom dash design.
     
    grumble and Syncro27 like this.
  4. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,866
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Good find! :)

    13ABC41B-7105-469D-B945-2211A3B9668A.png
     
    grumble likes this.
  5. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,590
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Mmmm..... might grab one
     
  6. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    Mine is this exact one, I also have a spare as I bought 2 would sell for $40
     
  7. Wattie

    Wattie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,078
    Location:
    Mildura. Victoria. Australia.
    I fitted a cable operated 5/8" universal heater tap way back when living in Perth.
    The cable and tap was sourced from Repco and I mounted the cable through the lower dash next to the steering column cover
    2nd heater tap R.jpg
     
  8. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    As usual Geoff a very nice solution :)
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  9. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    OK
     
  10. rowansnow

    rowansnow Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Australia
    Have sourced replavement heater tap as the cable was not bent. I have measured up with cardboard the area and cut some auto insulation from under a car bonnet to fit. That should fix it in theory..
     

    Attached Files:

    Barry likes this.
  11. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,373
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    This is awesome - great idea.

    Thankfully both of my T3s dont need it ....yet
     
  12. Andy.

    Andy. Active Member

    Messages:
    498
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Looks like a standard plumbing fitting.
    I put two in the hoses to the rear heater when I installed mine. I bought the taps and fittings from Powell Industrial in Brisbane.
     
  13. Wattie

    Wattie Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,078
    Location:
    Mildura. Victoria. Australia.
    Note about OEM heater taps.
    Before fitting if you close the tap fully to off, then look at the valve spool you will see a very small groove connecting the two ports together,
    I assume this calibrated leak is to assist in the elimination of potential air locks in the heating circuit.
    The problem arises in a 30+ year old T3 with the seals on the heater control flaps having rotted away allowing a low airflow over the
    heater core.
    I took the cowards way out rather than dismantling the dash and heater unit to replace the air control flap seals and just fitted a
    aftermarket heater tap instead, see post #9 this tread.
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  14. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Typical T3 people looking for a problem the doesn't exist. Hot foot syndrome is a completely different thing for LHD. This should be called old worn out heater valve syndrome. They have sold millions of these valves and all of a sudden the Australian T3 owners think they need to redesign them.:rolleyes:
     
  15. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    Well we are smarter. And as Geoff said above its probably not the valve so much as the worn or missing foam seals on the heater box itself. The LHD version of the problem is the same as ours plus the location of the gas pedal right at the outlet and the common to both of us, warm floor from the radiator heat right at the gas pedal.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 1, 2019
  16. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Think about what you wrote. If the valve stops the heating what difference does the foam seal do? It is not a constant flow heater. They do not have valves.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2019
  17. grumble

    grumble Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,118
    Location:
    Taree
  18. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,493
    Location:
    Gosford
    You need to read what I wrote in context with what Geoff wrote. He was saying that a small amount of hot coolant still gets past the valve and yes there is a valve see https://www.gowesty.com/product/fresh-air-heating/3386/front-heater-valve?v=
    I did think about what I wrote, dont think you read what I wrote. The problem with HOT FOOT is as I explained warm floor and hot air from faulty valve and yes it is a valve that dosnt quite shut off combined with crumbled foam on the heater vent flaps allowing any wayward heat to be directed onto the drivers right foot (LHD) hence hot foot. Even if the heater is completely shutting off the heat the yanks still get hot foot from the floor heat.
     
  19. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Only if it is defective.
     
  20. rowansnow

    rowansnow Member

    Messages:
    68
    Location:
    Australia
    A VW mechanic installed the new replacement tap.
    The heating system may have been clogged and he revved it for a while to get it really hot to flush it out and rusty water came out.
    It was a bugger of a job, its so tight in there. Pays to turn the heater on now and then to stop the problem arising.

    I have insulated the floor with form shield and I will put insulation on the pipes up front to stop the heat radiating through the floor as much through the gear shift holes..
     

Share This Page