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How long is a piece of string department

Discussion in 'Buying and selling help' started by Longrasser, Jul 7, 2014.

  1. Longrasser

    Longrasser Active Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Orange, NSW
    Good evening people, I am after a bit of price advice.

    I recently purchased a white bay at a recent auction (Barnawatha), with the purpose to grab a seat and move on the rest as parts.
    The thing is, it turned out to be a bit better than a parts pile, so I've got a bit of local interest to buy it whole.
    The question being; what is a comfortable price that I should be putting on it to start the bargaining process without ripping myself (or anyone else) off.

    After the pressure clean, I can tell you this;

    It is a 76 bus with a 72 nose on it, which looks like a factory job (?) . The compliance plate shows it is licensed to seat 3, so this along with 2 central roof aerial mounts and extra dash switches may indicate it has other duties when purchased. (Ambo, police, govt' ?? , did the compliance plate get extra coding to indicate this ?)

    No engine, no box but all loom, controls and lights.
    No seats mats or interior cards/ panels.
    Dash is intact and still lights up, wipers work, lights work etc. when a battery was put in.
    No front windscreen and missing one side window.

    Rust has got the top of the nose below the windscreen, but not into the seal-sill for the screen. This rust looks to be restricted to the exterior body steel and does not extend anywhere down on the inside of the dash or forward of the foot plates.
    The floor has rusted mainly on the passenger floor but does not extend into the seat pedestal or the dog leg and door aperture. There are lesser rust holes in the drivers side floor.

    The rust stops there. No rust back from the front floor to the back of the bus. All doors and hatches rust free. All window sills are clean. Engine bay is also free of rust. The cargo floor and parcel shelf is in very good condition. No sill rust, no gutter rust.

    The paint is a old paint job in white over an off white original. The body is very straight and does not show any reason for the paint job, the parts that I rubbed the white paint off, the original off white is in fine condition.

    It rolls, steers and brakes.

    Sorry about the essay, but that's how I describe it as I see it.
    Here's some photos to help.

    Many thanks for any help or comments.
    Regards Dean

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  2. Longrasser

    Longrasser Active Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Orange, NSW
  3. Squidy

    Squidy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,756
    Location:
    Eumundi
    Depends what you paid for it ;) if you've got your seat and have no further need for it perhaps sell it for what you paid, that way you've got the seat you wanted and you get your money back. Just a thought.
     
  4. Iwantakombi

    Iwantakombi Member

    Messages:
    390
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Agreed. And if someone wants to offer you some price ridiculously higher than that, all good. Ebay is a great pricing indication as people tend to cough up much more on there than stuff is actually worth.

    From what I heard, most stuff at that auction went for next to nothing so it would have been a bargain anyway whether for parts or as a restorer. Looks like a solid basis for a restoration.

    Are you sure its a 76? apart from the nose being earlier, the slider is early as is the instrument panel and the ignition switch/pod/indicator switch. Even looks like it has a fuel flap which was stopped after 73 (hard to tell from the pics). Given that a lot of this had been sitting there for 20+ years ie before the days someone would have bothered with such a mod, seems a bit funny.
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2014
  5. Harribo

    Harribo Active Member

    Messages:
    309
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    How about you stick it on ebay as an auction with the reserve as the price you paid for it that way you are guaranteed your money back if someone buys it?

    And post the link so we can follow its progress!!
     
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    11,003
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    You won't be ripping yourself off unless you sell it for less than you paid.......& that sounds unlikely!
    Remember that people have to choose to buy something....if they agree on whatever you are asking, you won't be ripping them off.....ultimately they can say no, or make you an offer.

    As suggested, e-bay is a place to go if you're not sure on a top-end price.....but I'd be leaving on there for at least a couple of weeks to generate interest.

    A lot of folks think nothing of paying a panel shop 5-6K on rust work before paint, seals & upholstery etc.
    Good luck, it'd be a shame to cut it up.
     
  7. Longrasser

    Longrasser Active Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Orange, NSW

    So I went out tonight to investigate the plates a little more closely so I know what I am selling here.
    What do you know, it is a 1975 bus rather than what I thought it said (76). This plate matches the chassis number. Then why the low blinkers ? Is there any thing else to give me tips to it's possible former use ? It's always a bit of fun to do the sleuth thing, and I can brush up on my bay general knowledge too. ;) Maybe they just liked low-lights. The little trailer blinkers up high on the front flash side to side when you flick the switch on the dash too. I thought that was a cool trick !

    [​IMG]

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    Fuel flap detail..... So many finer points.....

    Maybe I just ask for the 'what-ever you think its worth' thing.

    It cost me $500 from the auction plus the fuel to drag it 5 hours back home, plus it would be nice to have it help fund a few new bits for the 23. ... Problem is that this reply would never sit right with my interested parties and they would demand me to 'put a proper price on it !'

    Ebay might be the go, but then you get no returned karma whatsoever.

    [​IMG]
    The hanging gardens of kombi have now been pressure-blasted away. They were very nice while they lasted and I got some nice close up pics. I'm surprised how quickly lichen and moss grows. This is 15 to 20 years worth.
     
  8. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,794
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    its been rebadged. that is not a 75 nor a panel van
     
  9. Iwantakombi

    Iwantakombi Member

    Messages:
    390
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Yep. 20 years ago you wouldn't have bothered making a high light look like a lowie.

    Check the area where the numbers are on the body. To see if they have been re stamped. Might pay to check if its listed on any databases of questionable vehicles.
     
  10. Iwantakombi

    Iwantakombi Member

    Messages:
    390
    Location:
    Brisbane
    The amount of work to change the fuel cap alone would be excessive.

    Possibilities:

    1. It was stolen back in the day and rebadged.
    2. It was an ID swap for a written off or damaged one.
    3. Someone with mad skills or lots of $$$ really liked lowlights (and lichen) and did it on purpose.

    Would be worth checking up on the first 2 possibilities since these will make onselling near impossible.

    If it is indeed a lowlight then worth plenty more than the $500 you paid, given the condition with a little fixing up it would be pretty good left in the OG paint.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014
  11. Longrasser

    Longrasser Active Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Orange, NSW
    Mmm, so the rabbit hole is deeper...
    Yep, definitely isn't a panelvan... Something else I didn't take notice of on the plate.
    Can any one tell me if the body stamp number looks like it should for a bay ?

    [​IMG]

    At least it matches the one on the plate on the drivers seat side. ..... Hah , ! It's feeling like a parts bus......
     
  12. Iwantakombi

    Iwantakombi Member

    Messages:
    390
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Curiouser and curiouser!

    Maybe look at the back of this plate area or at the immediate joins for any signs of welds, cuts etc.

    Interesting thought though - I looked at buying a 73 dual cab kombi last year. It was a lowlight, even though in 73 the high lights were well and truly in. It had the old style round bumpers and everything. Maybe, like a lot of companies, they used up parts from earlies on later ones destined to be commercial models (such as taxis). Could be worth checking into.

    Does it have lowlight style front step areas and early bumper fittings or later bay ones with the larger step inside the door frame? That would provide a major clue. And it doesn't have an engine hatch in the back so definitely made for a 1600, mine is a 75 and factory 1600 - it has no hatch opening but has an outline - no outline at all means pre 72 or so as the 1600 was the largest engine at the time.

    If it all looks kosher, maybe ask your local constabulary, consumer affairs or transport department to run the chassis number, they have done this for me before and this will confirm. Or pay the $20 or so and get a history check. Considering the gains it would be worth the punt. Or buy an engine and box, chuck it in and get it up to running condition.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2014

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