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How much for a 1800 bottom end rebuild

Discussion in 'Kombi Club' started by beerboy, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. beerboy

    beerboy Active Member

    Messages:
    990
    Location:
    Sydney
    I know this is probably a bit of how long is a bit of string question. any ideas on a bottom end rebuild of a 1800.
    i.e regound crank engine case check, new barrels and pistons heads rebuilt?
    actually that just sounds like a rebuild engine lol
     
  2. Syncro27

    Syncro27 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,877
    Location:
    Terrigal, NSW Central Coast
    Probably $5K plus
     
  3. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Bottom end only, Approximate costs(but close)..

    Case work-$1200(line bore, milling work, galleries, oil pump prep)
    Crank(if OK to grind-not rusty or cracked, not cut by shims at #1 main, not bent)...$200-ish for the grind.
    Main bearings to suit the case and crank $50-$150.
    Cam bearings- $30
    Cam, gear and lifters-$400-$500...standard cams are rubbish.
    Oil pump and cover(a decent pump)-$200
    Rod bearings-$50
    Rebuilt rods(Resize and rebush)-$150
    Seals +Gasket kit-$100
    Balancing-need to check..

    Above will just about get you a short block/bottom end in parts and machining(no pistons/cylinders, no heads or other bits to make it work...and no labour to build it).

    Expect $500(landed) for decent P&C(worthwhile looking for NOS KS/mahle/Cofap)

    Expect $1500+ for a decent pair of 1800 heads.

    Expect another $500 in valve train parts and minor machine work to get it to long block stage.

    So yes...$5K(ish)...but above is only parts and machining.

    On top of that, you will need to sort out the cooling system, fuel/ignition system, engine mounts and exhaust system..

    Have just started a thread doing exactly the above :) Thread link below. Keeping it 1800 too!

    http://forums.kombiclub.com/showthread.php?47030-Abby-s-Ressurection
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  4. beerboy

    beerboy Active Member

    Messages:
    990
    Location:
    Sydney
    many thanks for taking the time to post that and break down prices. There isnt really much point on trying to not buy decent parts we all know how that will end up.
    i was interested if any of the parts or work could be done a bit cheaper. i.e the heads. but it isnt really worth it. even considering if you can pull the engine and do a bit of a rebuild yourself.

    I think the saying is pay once cry once isnt it
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  5. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Well, the engine and trans is still in the car I'm doing... It isn't worth going through IMO as most of it will end up in the scrap bin...hence why I'm starting again. It is easier for me to start again than pull down the crapper that is in it, easier than working out that I should have pushed it out onto the side walk in the first place...

    In regard to heads, you need to find heads that have not gone soft(aluminium hardness), have not had the deck machined 10 million times and are not cracked. If you have acheived here, then you can get on with new seats and guides and machining. Then.... finding somebody who knows how to install the seats to air cooled specs, not holden specs...so they don't fall out and destroy the rest of your new engine...

    Start collecting parts when they turn up, not when you need them... I have landed some great deals...like $100 Piston/cylinder kit, NOS cranks, etc,etc.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  6. beerboy

    beerboy Active Member

    Messages:
    990
    Location:
    Sydney
    and definately no point putting a worn out part back in to save a few hundred bucks :)
     
  7. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA

    Correct...

    When you have done a great motor, you will see what I mean in a few years time... You will be spending nothing on it, it will be reliable and leak free, you will forget all about the initial cost and you will be looking over at others spending their hard earned 2x-3x over in throwing away good money after bad...

    NOS 1800 cranks for example can be well priced when you find one, they have the benefit of the original factory balance(Check it anyway), not heat or shock cycled(major contributor to failures), not bent(most used cranks are at the centre main), not cut into by the thrust shims... Well worth the look around.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2014
  8. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    You can also "2L" the 1800 by going up to 96mm pistons and barrels....create an engine that loves to rev...but will still pull like a train where you want it.
     
  9. REB

    REB Member

    Messages:
    298
    Location:
    sydney
    I had mine done for 2100,dropped it off and picked up when ready.
    Pistons and heads were still good in my car.
    I think he gets the parts cheaper as he quoted about 1200 for heads
    Cam shaft rivets came loose.
    full engine rebuild was going to cost 4800
    Got this done by gary at Vee dub classic,very good engine builder
     
  10. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA

    That's AMC heads out of the box...
     

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