Introducing Pompi - my first Kombi

Discussion in 'Members Rides' started by Gordon D, May 1, 2017.

  1. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks for the recommendation @David H and @Wayne murray ... I will order two and make sure they're both good to go :)
     
    David H likes this.
  2. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,131
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Spare Clevis Pin for securing cable up front as they have been known to break :eek: ....... cheap insurance ;)
    We like spending your money for you Gordon :D ..... :confused:
     
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  3. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thought I was doing a good enough job of that myself ... but I suspect I needed assistance ;)
     
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  4. onetrackwonder

    onetrackwonder Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    Central Tilba, NSW
    And don't forget a spare wing nut for the clutch cable as when they break you loose them down the road
     
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  5. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    557
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS

    Your engine might have come from here
    http://theengineshop.info/acatalog/Bay-Window-2000cc-029100031AXV.html#SID=11
     
  6. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
  7. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Woo-hoo, we have movement at the station and the engine is now underway (*finally* I hear you cry)
    First step was cleaning a few flange faces of crusty old gaskets. This one on the oil filter mount took an absolute age! (Before and After followed by Fitted)
    2018-08-11 22.08.36_small.jpg 2018-08-12 15.07.34_small.jpg

    Next was the underside with the sump plug cleaned and torqued into place as well as the the oil strainer. Note that I have fitted the two oil strainer gaskets either side of the strainer - any issue with that?
    The Haynes seemed to indicate this was correct but what I removed had both gaskets together and between the block and the strainer ... nothing between strainer and the cover? (Oh, and I paid close attention to the 9ft/lb torque)
    2018-08-12 16.05.54_small.jpg 2018-08-12 16.28.10_small.jpg
    Then came the refitting of the removed studs with Loctite, cleaning the cylinder housings, prepping one bank of the new piston/cylinder combo (they were actually quite mucky) and then fitting to the block.
    2018-08-12 16.42.10_small.jpg 2018-08-12 19.12.17_small.jpg
    2018-08-12 18.12.33_small.jpg 2018-08-12 20.14.05_small.jpg

    So, having gotten this far yesterday, this morning I have decided to step back slightly.
    1) I can't get to the circlips on the "inner" sides of the two pistons as the 'changeable' circlip pliers are actually too bulky to fit between the studs so I will have to get a dedicated pair of circlip pliers
    2) I was thinking carefully about the work that I need to do on the main seal, flywheel and fan seal ... and I think I would rather do all of that without the cylinder&pistons on so I don't damage them
    3) It will be lighter to lift on and off the engine stand without the cylinder&pistons on ... and there are more handholds available

    With Ekka Show Holiday on Wednesday, I may get an extra day to play and progress :)
     
    David H likes this.
  8. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,963
    Location:
    newcastle
    Great to follow your thread Gordon D & nice to see the clean progress:).
    Cheers
     
    Gordon D likes this.
  9. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,131
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Gordon, re gaskets on the oil strainer you've done it right with one each side - this is also the way the 1600 engines (including Type3) have to have them fitted ;)
     
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  10. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,131
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Reason one each side is becasue the stainer base (as no doubt you have found) is very flexible/flimsy and bends easy so you have to ensure you get the edge as flat as possible and then the 2 seals ensure leaks prevented/minimised.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Gordon D

    Gordon D Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Yay for EKKA Show Day holiday - a gift day to keep cracking on ... and everything went to plan with only two little surprises
    1) I have managed to lose my pack of shims so have been forced to reuse the ones that were already on the main drive ... but they were in good condition and the end play is pretty good
    2) Went to replace the fan mount O-ring ... and discovered there wasn't one to replace :confused: - seriously, my predecessors are getting a real reputation smacking in my head :p

    Business end of the block all cleaned, freshly sealed and shimmed and ready to go (Before and After)
    2018-08-15 11.47.15_small.jpg 2018-08-15 12.49.57_small.jpg
    Flywheel all prettified and then clamped in place with my new shiny flywheel locker (I love that tool)
    2018-08-15 13.47.53_small.jpg 2018-08-15 14.11.12_small.jpg

    Notice anything missing from the rear (?) crank seal ... oh yeah, the O-ring :eek: - all fixed now
    2018-08-15 14.38.59_small.jpg

    ... and finally the fan end and business ends all tarted and torqued up ready to get onto the next step. One thing learned is that once I put that flywheel on, the weight really went up so the rest of the build will be completed at roller height :D
    2018-08-15 15.56.45_small.jpg 2018-08-15 16.01.26_small.jpg
     
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