1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Kombi not starting after being parked on a steep enbankment

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Jenny Frappell, Sep 18, 2017.

  1. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    Hi everyone in kombiclub land,
    I had a strange experience in Bindi the other day. I had parked it on a steep slope while my husband and I went bushwalking for about 4 hours. When we came back she wouldn't start, but the lights and radio were working.
    We managed to push and clutch start her and she hasn't missed a beat since.
    Do VW's have an issue with hydraulic fuel lock? Or is there something else that I should be looking into?
    Cheers,
    Jenny
     
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,537
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Type 1 motor?
    Nose up or down?

    could be 2 things
    faulty fuel pump or leaking needle and seat valve
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,789
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Critical that you check oil level accurately and check for signs if fuel in oil. Thin and fuel smell.

    If you have type 1V motor with carbs and an electric fuel pump , the carb float can sit high and allow fuel to enter sump via piston if you are parked nose up. ( siphons from tank)
    This will naturally dilute oil and compromise lubrication.
    Alternately a full sump can blow dodgy oil gallery plugs.

    If you think there is fuel in oil dont drive , change oil and filter.

    If you have an electric pump you should fit a tachometric relay and shutoff valve to prevent above situation on slope and fire risk from any fuel line faults.

    If no fuel in sump or mechanical pump ( unless faulty or dodgy needle/seat as Barry mentioned) then likely float only allowed contents of bowl thru and engine was flooded on startup.
     
    Mordred likes this.
  4. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    Nose up Barry
     
  5. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    Thanks Cbus,
    I do have carbs, and I think I have an electric fuel pump.
    I will check the oil. I am hoping that the engine was flooded. I wont park nose up again.
    Cheers,
    Jenny
     
  6. Andy.

    Andy. Active Member

    Messages:
    439
    Location:
    Brisbane
    As Cbus said. The shut off valve is important for electric pumps, as are good needle/seat in the carbs!

    It can also happen with type 4 motors with the nose up and everything is working as it should, the heat from the engine heats the carbs when turned off, as the fuel heats up, some can leak down the inlet manifolds. Makes it hard to start 1/2hr to a few hours later, but not an issue if starting from cold the next day (or very soon after turning off). This is a harder one to fix, but ensuring the float level is correct helps (and not parking nose up!)
    Richard
     
  7. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    I have new carbs.
    Bindi is a type 2. Does that mean she has a type 2 motor?
    Thanks Richard.
     
  8. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,326
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    If only VW was that logical......:p

    Bindi is a type 2 (Kombi) T2 (Bay window), but has either a Type 1 or Type 4 motor.....o_O

    ;)
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2017
    oldman likes this.
  9. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,537
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    A Type 1 motor is (generally) an upright motor - unless it is in a Type 3 car
    Then it is a pancake motor

    A type 4 motor is also a pancake motor

    A type 4 motor did come out of a Type 4 car though
     
  10. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,537
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Type 1 motor

    upload_2017-9-18_20-24-57.png

    type 4

    upload_2017-9-18_20-26-54.png
     
    rstucke and Grantus like this.
  11. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    600
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Hi Jenny
    By "not starting" did you mean it wouldn't crank over at all or it wouldn't fire up while cranking?
     
  12. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
  13. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    Wasn't cranking at all! No sound- just lights and the radio coming on.
    I did had the headlights replaced last week.
    It hasn't missed a beat since.
     
  14. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    600
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    You've got an electrical problem not a fuel problem.
    Obviously a one off or intermittent.
    Could have been some Schmutz in the ignition switch contacts, or a loose wire down the starter motor end at the solenoid.
    Because the starter is so far away from the ignition switch some owners have added a relay down the back to shorten the electrical path and take some of the load off the switch which is definitely a good idea.
    If the problem comes back an auto electrician can easily install a relay
    Cheers
     
    David H, cbus and oldman like this.
  15. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    7,937
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Be careful with headlight replacement.......if the wattage of the headlights is increased beyond stock, the ignition switch & associated wiring can be overloaded, causing early ignition switch failure.
    Happens a lot....folks want bright lights, increase the wattage without considering the wiring....
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  16. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,789
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Check battery terminal leads are tight.
    May have been removed while electrical work being done and not refitted correctly.
     
    Mordred likes this.
  17. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,662
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Just to clarify, the Type 3 cars (fast back, sedan and wagon) have Type 3 engines, and wont fit in to a Kombi under normal circumstances. Type IV (IV is roman numerals for 4, I suppose to make it easier to make the distiction) engines are sometimes referred to Pancake or Suitcase as the cooling fan is on the end, not above it and were made in 1700, 1800 or 2l sizes, every thing smaller would be a Type 1 engine.

    A Kombi through to 1968 is a Type 2 or T2, then from the next year until 1979 is a Type 2b or T2b (technically) and the boxy van after that is a T25 or T3 (not a Type 3). The early aircooled T3's have a Type IV engine with fuel injection (as are the late T2b) before they were replaced with water cooled engines.

    A Beetle is a Type 1 (car).

    Confused now?

    BTW This is a type 3 car.
    [​IMG]


    Adrian
     
    Jenny Frappell and Grantus like this.
  18. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    14,326
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    T3 - "Boxy"? And a T2 isn't? o_O

    Third generation is still a Type 2. So the 1980-1992 ones are Type 2 T3's. ;)
     
  19. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,537
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    Type 1 engine with Type 3 cooling :D
     
  20. Jenny Frappell

    Jenny Frappell Active Member

    Messages:
    194
    Location:
    Bulli Beach
    No, I was there and the leads were not touched.
     

Share This Page