Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Jenny Frappell, Sep 18, 2017.
So Bindi being a 1974 with an 1800 engine is a Type 2b?
I have a new ignition switch and I don't think that we increased the wattage. The auto electrician just put bulbs in that would fit. I will double check. I must admit that this was my first thought.
Adding to this, if nothing happens, could be low voltage to the start motor solenoid (can be ignition switch, wiring, connectors, battery etc), or could be the starter solenoid itself playing up. Either could be likely if it only happened once.
Some people fit a "hot start relay", which is a separate solenoid at the starter, so the ignition switch is only powering a light solenoid.
If you get the red lights with the key but no crank when going to 'start' cycle this may be overcome with a bit of 'encouragement' to the starter solenoid (little round canister on the side of the starter motor). Key on & in start (crank) position & a thump to the solenoid with your favourite metal thumping device. Andy & rstucke have given the technical. This will tell you if that's the problem. Replace solenoid first if this trick works.
T2b (body style ...bay window!) came with many different engines 1600/1700/1800/2000. Could be corrected on that!
Yes a T2b (body) with a Type4 (engine) . Are you confused yet. Can you speak/understand German logic? Simple bit is earlier engines had upright fan toward the front of the bus...type 4 (sorry 1v....crook German) had fan at rear.
Just look at the pictures from Barry, easiest way to tell. Keep in mind besides there being offered with different engine options (this is normal for all cars on the market), they were also offered in carby and EFI.
But if your issues are not cranking when the key is turned, and no sounds from the starter motor, fault finding is the same for all.
Since being pedantic seems to be the way things are going around here, this is not quite correct. A T1 is splitty up to 1967 and a T2 is a bay window from 1968 to 1979 - a T2a is a lowlight bay window (1968 to 1972.5) and a T2b is a late bay window (1972.5 to 1979).
I've not heard of T2a/T2b before. Is that actual factory designation, or implied by the current VW community?
Yes, that is factory terminology from factory publications and many other reference works I have read
I am sure I have also read that the Type 2 was used for vans and beetles were Type 1. The first 1950 splits were Type 29 and then shortened to Type 2.
As far as the early T3 being a T2b the only factory designations I have seen is T25 and T3. T25 seems to be mainly in British publications. Logically it would have to be a T2c.
And compared with a T2 bay window a&b and splits they are very angular with few curves=boxy! ;-P
Can of worms has been opened...
Just to aid confusion further, is this bit written by a UK VW technician:
VW Type Numbers Explained.
I've written this page because I am bored with people calling things the wrong name, type 4 Transporters being a prime example, its T4!! aaaarrrgh!
if you read this it should hopefully put things straight for you.
Type 1 - its a beetle, nowt more, nowt less.
Type 2 - VW vans, split, bay, wedge even some LT's, they are all type 2's.
Type 3 - notchback, squareback (variant), fastback.
Type 4 - the 411 and 412, its not a Transporter.
Type numbers come from the chassis number, all beetles (type1) chassis numbers start with 1. All vans start with 2 hence type 2 etc. etc. (except 1980 on vehicles that start with w but that's another story!)
This is where the confusion starts, the Germans shortened Transporter to T so...
T1 - is a split screen van (1948 - 1967)
T2 - is a bay window van (1967 - 1979)
T3 - is a vanagon,Type25 (1979 - 1990)
T4 - is a well... T4! or a Eurovan for our American friends (That mean Transporter 4 NOT type 4!!)
Does that make sense?
Now things can get a little complicated when a type 34 comes along, well its not that complicated, honest.
The first three digits of pre-'80 chassis number give you three different pieces of info.
1st digit is the chassis type.
2nd digit is the body type.
3rd digit gives you the year of manufacture.
So the type 34 is based on a type 3 chassis (same as fastback etc.) with a number 4 body (Karmann). Easy!!
It's the same for the type 14 or Karmann Ghia, that's based on a type 1 (beetle) chassis with a karmann body.
So, the Type 25, its also a T3, and a vanagon (in the US) but to add confusion the type number for the pickup and crew cab models start with 24...so that screws that up don't it!!
And while we're at it, it's only the UK that dubbed the 3rd generation of transporter the "Type 25". Most other countries have adopted the T3 name, which in my estimations is a much better name seeing as though if you look back through lists of old vw type designations listings you find that a real type 25 is infact a fire truck!
That is probably as close as we are going to get to a complete answer, and far more comprehensive than most I have seen. I still hold to the T2b tag for post lowlight bays, but I can see where the Type 2 T1 and Type 2 T2 gets everyone confused especially when you get a Type 1 motor in a Type 2 T1, or a Type IV engine in a Type 2 T2. AAAAAHHHHHH!!!!
Damn, that has melted my brain, but we should copy that and make it a sticky, although you can guarantee there will be someone who has another interpretation.
My head is spinning!
Thanks Grantus, that's better.
This originated as factory designations, but the details get lost in Chinese whispers over the years.
Engines should be referred to by engine number as engine specs for a given engine type varied not only year to year, but market to market.
Just because late bay Kombi's (Type2/T2) generally had "type 4" carbie engines locally, they were available with type 1, type 4, carbie, EFI and also in numerous compression ratio's depending on the build requested from the factory. Engines even varied depending on the gear box fitted.
That's just the tip of the iceberg, next you can look at M codes for your specific vehicle!
And that's assuming it has never been modified from factory spec...
I'm just going to be dumb for the rest after reading this. Thanks folks.
Great job from the KC collective but if the brains trust of knowledge has trouble with it then what can be expected of us mere mortals.
Mine too. I thought I just owned a 76 camper.
And to be really pedantic. All Kombis ain't kombis. The Kombi is the Kombination Nutzfahrzeuge. The one that German advertising clearly showed taking your Kinder to school in the morning and your Schweine and hay to market during the day. Try that in your Microbus, Caravelle or Westfalia
And still a going concern https://www.volkswagen-nutzfahrzeuge.de/de/modelle/transporter-kombi.html
Ah.....a perfect example of how to go off topic.
Been a fun ride, and I am saure Jenny learnt something,,,,you never know where things will lead. ;-P
Mmmmmmm you guys are hysterical.
The mechanics couldnt find anything wrong. I am not parking on steep embankments any more, unless I have lots of pushers.
Bindi went to Cootamundra and back to Bulli on the back roads with no hick-ups.
Hi everyone, having starting issues again. Left Bindi outside, nose pointing up, overnight and she needed a clutch start this morning. It was a bit dewy but not overly cold. I have had the choke adjusted last week by Micky, I have had the carbs done and adjusted 3 times. What else do I do? We go bushwalking a lot and I heed the car to be reliable (which it is when it starts). Do I put a blanket on her? Husband threatening to sell her for scrap.
Same issue re no contact/ noise when key turned?
There was power, but it just wouldn't kick over. I compressed the accelerator once before turning the key as usual. It usually starts first go.
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