Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by SunnyJim, Apr 22, 2019.
I don't think I could detect that. I am not that sensitive. Well that's what my wife says
I am leaving that well alone
Today Borat gets his pushrods oil switch changed. It is tucked a little way back there and a standard socket wouldn't reach, but this el cheapo bunnings tap sockets worked a treat, size 24mm to be precise.
This was just supposed to be a basic clean up. I have done more than i thought would have but pulling things apart is a great teacher .
Moustache bar mounted, exhaust back on, oil cooler o ring done. New rubber hoses on the coil cooler. Oil breather tower o ring replaced.
Just waiting on the flywheel o ring and front seal to arrive then starts the process of re install.
If i was going to do this, then I gotta do it right.
Borat was shaking so much a while back mostly due to that broken alternator bracket but the exhaust was loose in many places .
It is real solid now having secured the exhaust bracket back to the motor.
You all getting sick of me and Borat yet? He gets prettier by the day... Borat Hemsworth has a nice ring to it.
Anyway the alternator is not critical as before i pulled the motor i checked it was charging at 14.1v so that is ok. However the brushes are well worn and a bit of corrody gunk around.
It is not noisy, looks solid, so the plan was to just replace the regulator and brushes.
I assume it is a bosch but I cant see a label.
Anyone know what the 2 small black plastic boxes on the back are? Haynes does not show these.
They're capacitors to reduce static on your radio.
Ok makes sense
Hydraulic clutch is a first for me.
While Borat's engine is out i have been cleaning up the engine bay. I removed the throwout bearing then noticed the clutch slave cylinder pushrod fell out. Then i looked up Haynes and realized there should be rubber bellow or boot around that pushrod. Not sure when it went walkabout.
Here is what I am not sure about. I just ordered the boot today. It will be a few days , but I will want to reinstall the motor asap. If i reinstall all the clutch gear and motor now, can i still easily put the rubber bellows over the clutch slave cylinder pushrod? Or will it be under a lot of tension and to hard to get the pushrod out?
That slave cylinder is in a shit of a spot.
A little easier with the gearbox out.
I gave that job to my mechanic.
It is easy access to the slave cylinder right now as i have the engine out. Little bit tougher with engine in .
Right now there is no real tension in the bellhousing, the throw out bearing had no pressure on it without the clutch .
So this is what I don't know, trying to find out . I am ready to reinstall clutch, pressure plate flywheel and motor but then that puts tension on the clutch. In order then to put the new boot on I need to remove that clutch slave cylinder pushrod and put the rubber bellows over it and new circlips. So I don't know if this is possible with clutch , motor in.
The hitch is I am still waiting for the rubber bellows to arrive .
Like to hear from someone who has done this job.
You can remove clutch slave with engine and box in situ.
It's just harder to get at.
Thx mate. I can see i can remove that slave cylinder but I didn't want to disturb the liquid side of it as it is all neat and clean.
I will need to prise the clutch pivot arm down remove the pushrod , push the bellows over the pushrod, then reinsert the pushrod back in. I was concerned that clutch plate pressure will not allow me to do this.
I will get in and give it a go.
That could be difficult.
May be necessary to undo the bolts holding the slave.
It will sit higher without needing to undo fluid line.
One of the bolts is a mongrel to get at tho.
Turned out a little easier , bought a complete slave cylinder boots and clips, replaced the whole lot.
Col u are right, 1 bolt was a bugger.
Also replaced the transmission input shaft seal.
New alternator voltage regulator installed.
Front and rear main seals done.
Motor slowly inching forward to its final destination.
Struck a little problem, advice welcome from t3 gurus
Sat arvo, got the engine in, and could not turn the crank. It is stuck , Ok , I thought I have not aligned the input shaft therefore it is binding. Nope not it.
So pulled it all out again and realised something funny with the flywheel.
When I removed the flywheel I can now turn the crank. But when I torque the flywheel bolts to 60nm as Haynes it locks up. I even tried 50nm but still locks up.
Any advice? I have had this t3 for a few months , it was not in the road for a few years but this motor was running before albeit a bit smoky and shaky.
New front and rear main seals new flywheel o ring
Are the shims and disks between the crankshaft bearing and oil seal, installed in the correct order?
I think you are onto something, I reckon I got that big square one in the wrong order.
Now I only just put a new rear main seal in yesterday.
I will have to remove it without any damage. Any tricks to this?
I was just thinking using a wide blunt screwdriver slowly going around pulling it out?
Haynes says 60nm then 90degrees , so i guess that could be your 110nm?
The previous two pages of the Bentley:
Thx for those 2 pages, Haynes book does not have that detail
Separate names with a comma.