Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by SunnyJim, Apr 22, 2019.
The corrosion is usually at the connector section of the foil.
The tank is fairly easy to lower. There are two main straps holding it up and they have a bolt each. The other ends of the straps are hooked in from memory.
Undo the bolts and just lower the back end down - if it has a lot of fuel in it you will probably need a jack - no fuel they are fairly light unless they have been sitting for years with old fuel and that often forms a resin.
Then you can see the tank sender on the passenger side.
First job is to make sure they did reconnect the sender
Sidetrack for a bit, different topic....borat tikiT3 continues to suprise me. I was surprised to see the master cylinder and brake booster under the dash cluster not under the chassis. Very different to T2.
Just intrigued, does anyone know why the german engineers changed this?
Keep them out of the weather - avoid rust and moisture getting into the master cylinder maybe?
Either more convenient out of the weather, and easier to check / top up fluids if needed...............
Or were on hallucinogenic drugs, while employed by VW!
Because they lost the war and still hate us.
Roll reversal be the boss for the day It got changed but never put back
Moving ahead slowly.. I originally thought the engine mounts were the cause Borat TikiT3 was rocking and rolling so much , because I can see them move. However now I have fixed the broken alt bracket and installed a new belt it is so much smoother.
The new mounts have arrived so I may as well replace them.
So a question who have replaced T3 engine mounts... do I need to remove the nuts on top of the engine mounts?
They look hard to get to due to the pulleys. I have got the other bolts out.
Not sure if i need to remove the exhaust and exhaust shield.
What's the best way?
See piccy from haynes
Yes....remove all nuts
It is a shit of a job but worthwhile
Do i also remove the exhaust?
I am in the middle of replacing the engine mounts. It is a bit of a bugger of a job. I looked on the samba and kc and could not find any good guide , so I am just getting in having a go. I have removed one of the 4 so far but there are nuts on top of the other 3 mounts under the pulleys that I cant get to.
It looks like the mounts sit on a bracket that connects to the motor. So I am now trying to remove that bracket.
It might be that it would have been better to remove the exhaust entirely .
Most of the guides talk about removing the engine bearer and lowering the engine a bit.
Here it is, I like to put to something back in in better condition than I found it.
Looks great Paul.
Agree it is easier with the muffler removed at least.
That bracket can come off but not totally necessary.
Rattle can resto is the best!
Cbus prob not approve.
He will regret it as he tries to get the silver crap of his hands after the install.
Whereas the paint will come off the bar quite readily.
We need an address @cbus for us to sent how parts ,to get done correctly, you have plenty of spare time
If people past the age of 8 haven't learnt the difference then they shouldn't play with kombis.
Obviously there's a reason for the age restriction on purchasing spray cans of paint but unfortunately no intelligence test or proof of learning for those over the requisite age.
I'm here to teach .
Not wipe the bums of those who haven't learned.
For the handicapped I can send the address of a powder coater.
Its fine for mechanical bits.
Its cheap so if it burns off - just spray some more
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