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Microbus 2L THE RESURRECTION!!

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by 1500king, May 19, 2009.

  1. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Well, kicking off the rebuild for "2L", the crusty Martini Olive Microbus (august 1975, early 2L) that just happened to be the right price....albeit oil light flickering at idle.

    The first item on the agenda was to extract the motor from the car, get it apart and conduct assessments on all the parts to find out the following;

    -what is ok to rebuild
    -what is buggered
    -what is missing.

    The good- The motor WAS running, but 'tappety' , gutless and a flickering oil light at idle. Was also fairly complete.
    The bad- pull down revealed "Type IV Syndrome", where a monkey had overtightened the strainer bolt and cracked the case. Onto the shelf it goes and out with another case. Other than that just another average 2L that looks like it has have a 'top end recondition' on a worn out bottom end. Centre main bearing loose in the case, down to the copper, cam bearings and cam completely buggered... Lucky for me, the heads had the name of the workshop(Adelaide) stamped in them! I then wasn't surprised.



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    Now to get it all started, once the tinware was cleaned, straightened, a couple of parts replaced where some rock ape had cut an extra hole to get a spark plug out, the heater boxes welded and repaired, it was off to the powder coaters to make them all look nice!



    See any parts your engines are missing in the next few posts?

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  2. jon ward

    jon ward Active Member

    Messages:
    5,759
    Location:
    Travelling Australia
    Photo's please Mr King?

    We all love nice shiney photo's!
     
  3. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

    Messages:
    1,309
    Location:
    Lake Illawarra NSW
    Hi 1500king,
    What material was the fan housing blasted with? I still have to pull mine off to check out this oil leak tomorrow after the rego inspection so it would be the time to do it. The rest of the tin ware can stay crappy pressure pack black till it has to come off again. Basic mechanic laziness I guess.

    T1 Terry
     
  4. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Bloody USB port died on the front of my PC @#&*!!!! just took me 45 minutes to work it out, anyway, the pics as I was going to post up initially...sorry for the blurry photo's, not a good day for the camera, battery was flat and didn't want to focus properly.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  5. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Just bead/ sand blasted and then clear powder coated. The Magnesuim can be fragile if the air pressure is too high, where the media will start getting into the magnesium, so a little more care needs to be taken with it.
     
  6. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    more... should call it blingware!!

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  7. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

    Messages:
    1,309
    Location:
    Lake Illawarra NSW
    Hi Mr King,
    What paint did you use for the heater boxes, last time I tried to paint them it all vanished in a cloud of noxious fumes up the first hill, never really got the smell out of the heater tubes, never got the oil smell or the red dust smell out either come to think of it.
    There is a local bloke who does walnut husk blasting, might give him a try if he's still in business. 2 pk clear shouldn't go yellow when it gets hot should it? I know Acrylic does, looks terrible after a while.

    T1 Terry
     
  8. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

    Messages:
    1,309
    Location:
    Lake Illawarra NSW
    After closer inspection of you tinware I can see what's missing off mine, the 4 bits behind the vice in the second picture. looking up from underneath the only bits are the little deflector plate between the barrels. Last engine was the same and it did 250,000 before the original 1800 heads cracked right through to the outside climbing out of Huonville in Tassie. Still drove home though, rather noisy and a spectacular light show under the engine climbing hills at night.

    T1 Terry

    EDIT: Had another look and they are there, the only bits missing are the outer covers that go between the heater boxes and the case, think it will live without them.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2009
  9. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    All of it was powdercoated and will live to 200 degrees. The only paint I know will burn off is that which is on the exhaust tubes, the rest will be fine. All the tin is designed to direct air through the motor properly and once done, away from it. The skid plates also assist in creating a vacuum at the air exit of the motor, helping pull air through the motor when the car is moving.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2009
  10. dan_b

    dan_b Member

    Messages:
    570
    Location:
    mackay-
    the tin ware is used to keep the engine cool by deflecting the air from the fan around the engine and stop the heat from the exhaust cooking the engine? sound correct.

    when i get mine rebuilt im powder coating but going to loom at the cerimac style coating tha gets used on bike's exhaust.
    will this end up making the engine run hotter by not alowing the heat to disapate quicker.
    if
     
  11. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Active Member

    Messages:
    1,309
    Location:
    Lake Illawarra NSW
    Hi Dan,
    If you are only going to use the ceramic coating on the exhaust the that will be fine but don't use it on the heads or barrels. Don't paint these with anything. If you just have to paint something then there is a special heat displacing flat black paint they use for motorcycle ehausts and pot belly stoves but personally I wouldn't paint them at all. I have heard of the ceramic coatings being used on exhaust valves and piston crowns with great success, the super heat stuff has been used on turbo exhausts with great success also.

    T1 Terry
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2009
  12. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    yep agree, leave the longblock unpainted, but you can do whatever you like to make the rest look nice!!.
     
  13. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Alternator gets Lovin' !!!

    Well, been a busy been digging around for bits that are missing off the motor, purchased all the stainless nuts, bolts, washers etc, found a dizzy( needs lovin' to get it operational again) and thermostat, all the tinware grommets, etc etc.The build is starting to gain some traction now that I have almost everything to finish it now. Decided in my wisdom yesterday to pull the alternator down and see what gremlins lied within, this is keeping in mind that it was charging when the last motor was in the car. On spinning it, the bearings felt grainy, as if someone was feeding them sand...they'll be going in the bin... A good time to go through it now the motor is in bits, I have no desire to correct an issue in the near future once the motor is back in the car. The alternator parts and machining only cost me $35.70 from the auto sparky so, besides being a bargain for a recoed alternator, it's money well spent for insurance. Once pulled down, everything got a good clean and then tested everything with the multimeter-all windings and diodes good. The slip ring brushes were buggered and the slip rings needed a kiss on the lathe. Below pics show the various parts and detail for the bargain reco...

    Pull down: bad brushes and rusted bearings...ever wondered why your alternators squeak??

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  14. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    All parts cleaned, slip rings machined and new parts ready to go in...

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  15. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Assembly happens easily now everything is prepped, had to hold the brushes back for the rotor install for which the only thing in arms reach that would work was a paddle pop stick... Gets a new cowling gasket made(not much left of the old one)...

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
  16. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Final product and then installed on the fan housing ready for fitment to the motor... Nice and tidy which is how it should be, a big change considering it had more dust in it than the sahara desert and more grease on it that the Exxon Valdez oil spill!!

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017
    David H likes this.
  17. kommodius

    kommodius Active Member

    You can't beat powder coating Andrew, (yep yep yep yep yep!) :lol:

    Ray & da Boyz
     
  18. nikferatu

    nikferatu Active Member

    Messages:
    1,456
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Brisbane
    That's a top effort. The previous owner of my bus passed on a receipt for a new alternator fitted or reconditioned or something - it was about $400 odd I think. They must be doing alright if you can bring it in for $35!
     
  19. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Well, it gets nasty if bearings start collapsing and the slip rings are totally shot, self destruction takes place, in which case there would be no choice but to spend the $$$. Always better to give it a freshen up when there is a good chance too, not when it is too late, as the bearings and brushes are nearly always rooted. Call it preventative maintenance, after all, it is 34 years old! Kommodius, that alternator cowling has had the damaged slot brazed up to fit the alternator bolt cover properly. It had the usual screwdriver butchery when somebody tried to tighten the fanbelt!! You cannot tell the torn metal is even there now!!
     
  20. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,532
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Tonight is dizzy night... It gets the kiss of life!!!

    Well, after finding a distributor, closer inspection revealled it started to cook in an engine fire. Looking outside, it looked a little sooty, but inside with all the nylon bushes are still fine. They will be getting replaced anyway.The really important thing is the shaft is not worn out at both the bushes and the lobes are perfect too. Old vacuum can is going in the bin. Definitely got my $10 worth of distributor!! Dug around and sourced some new bits for it, a dizzy shim/spacer/clip kit, rotor button, cap, vacuum can(yes the correct one!!), condenser with wiring and contact set... that should do it!!

    Meet crusty, the distributor... Its a real pearler!!


    The engine had a 009 distributor installed which promptly went over the left shoulder on dismantling... that's telling you something if I prefer to resurrect a burnt out original...instead of just using the 009 again...

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    Sat overnight in solvent, brushed off and then into a bath of metal cleaner for an hour, now ready to trade a few parts and a full going through...

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2017

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