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My 72 DC jigsaw puzzle

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Wayne murray, Jul 6, 2016.

  1. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Nice to know that it isn't just mine. New material on seat making it tight and plus the rubber I added to under the pedestal might not help,I'll still have a play with rubber mat to see if it makes any difference.
     
  2. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    It is getting closer,I can almost smell the fumes.
    You at least have something to start with,you are probably where I was 5 years ago when I started mine.Best of luck with it
     
  3. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Put the little demon to bed:eek::confused:,getting the back window in rather easy.:) It didn't take long at all,I don't know whether the brand of rubber had anything to do with it or not.Now up to lock up stage with all windows in.
    747.jpg 748.jpg 749.jpg
    Started cutting the wooden slats,not a lot of information around knowing what lengths they should be,or where they started and finish. There is 15 slats 10 longer ones and 5 short.The short are beveled at both ends ,while the longer ones are only beveled at the tailgate end.
    750.jpg
    Know what length should they be:rolleyes::confused: I cut the longer ones at 1850 mm
    shorter ones at 1734 mm This all depends on where you start and finish them. At the tailgate end I started the slat where the raised metal panel starts.
    751.jpg
    At the separation panel end ,the shorter ones where finished where the raised metal panel finishes,the longer ones the same. Which I think is to close to the separation panel ,I did read on Samba .com that someone had the longer ones at 1840 mm . So the question is where does the longer ones finish?
    1) leave it where it is?
    2) at the length 1840 mm which is half way up the slop on the metal work?
    3 ) At where the highest point is on the raised metal panel before it slopes down?
    For the shorter ones,I'm happy where they start and finish and again on samba.com the shorter ones by someone where listed to be at 1720 mm which is 14 mm shorter then what I have but the same distance of 10 mm up the angled slope like the longer ones stated by this other person.:confused:
    752.jpg
    Production run of slats,cutting the beveled ends.
    753.jpg
     
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  4. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,228
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    Great progress Wayne!
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  5. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,993
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Well done! :)

    Got that “monkey off your back”! :D

    Right rubber, and it just falls into place - like it did at the factory. ;)
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  6. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,974
    Location:
    newcastle
    My vote & I'd like to say how sweet your DC is starting to look;). Lock up good! Congrats:cool:.
    Are you serious it's been a 5 yr project? If so I'll cut OSF some slack;)?
    Cheers
     
    OSF likes this.
  7. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    I've owned it for around 5 years, Only really started about 3 years ago,painter had it for 2 years. I've had it a year since the painter finished,I've got it where it is know in that time.
    No slacko_O:eek: Can't have any loose edges:confused::(;)
     
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  8. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,974
    Location:
    newcastle
    All good things take time;).
    Cheers
     
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  9. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Put the padded bulkhead in that goes between the front and rear sections on the Double cab. The bulkhead has been re vinyled wrapped ,which is an expensive exercise and only two companies I know does this process.
    757.jpg 756.jpg 755.jpg 754.jpg
    Put the reproduction 68 -72 front rubber mat in,which need to be cut between where the accelerator pedal bracket goes to floor and the accelerator shaft goes through the floor. The second place was between the two slot marks on the rubber for where the accelerator stop is on the floor
    758.jpg
    below the accelerator pedal stop
    759.jpg 760.jpg
     
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  10. onetrackwonder

    onetrackwonder Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    252
    Location:
    Central Tilba, NSW
    Extremely nice work Wayne, your attention to detail is beyond belief, you have built one beautiful duel cab that is for sure, can't wait to see it in person, cheers Greg
     
  11. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
  12. OSF

    OSF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,097
    Location:
    Sutherland NSW
    Nice work Wayne. At this rate you'll be on the road way before me.
     
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  13. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,062
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Wayne ..... it looks like you have a cut the slats to the correct length as on my T3 (the slat you got from Grant was mine originally) they fitted in the grooves between the ridges and were bevelled @ both ends (if you drag something along them then the chance of it catching are reduced).
    As for drilling of the holes ..... use the giant paint stirrer holes as a guide - adjust for different length as it's from a SC. Holes from each end I'd use the same then centre and go from there. Depending on if you're going to use pop rivets or something else to fasten them with - I used sealed pop rivets as you couldn't get to all the places so was as per original and passed on my spares to LuckyPhil .... holes were sunk square to hide the rivet head.
     
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  14. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Hi Kahuna Kombi; Do you think that the slats have to be shorter against the bulkhead? I'm not sure where it would finish and I was going by Samba site that split screen ones and bays had square at one end ,that went against the separation panel.
    I've got few methods going through my head to put the wood slats down,so not yet sure how I'll go about it,thanks for the guide on how to set it out and do it. The wooden slat is also back home know in Canberra. regards Wayne
     
  15. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    It not going to really matter,It's your own goals and achievements that going to matter,we all have had out hurdles and how we get over them to achieve our goal that going to matter,when we finish is irrelevant . We still will be parked up together one day watching the world go by and we enjoying a refreshment.
     
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  16. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,993
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Those end details I sent you from syncro, were for a T3, so not sure if the T2’s were different. :rolleyes:

    If you go the path of mechanical fixing, and want me to measure the hole spacing on the original, let me know.

    Personally, for your vehicle, I’d be looking at a Sikaflex or similar way to hold them in place, rather than drill through your immaculate tray. ;)
     
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  17. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Thanks Grantus I'll let you know if I need any measurements.
    I was leaning more towards that way:rolleyes: or a 'terostat sealing strip' (a double sided tape) which was used originally when they screwed or pop rivet them down to help seal them.
    On the wooden slat you have Grantus you can still see the mark about 10mm wide where the sealing strip was.
    drilling holes I don't have the bulls:eek: to do it.
    T2 is similar to T3 with square ends at the cabin end of vehicle.
    I've already made a T3 set of wooden slats for a DC ute by the specs you gave me.
     
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  18. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    21,062
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Wayne - here's a picture of the slats and proximity to the bulkhead on my SC - so your's look ok ..... on mine I just lined up the end of the slat level with the end of the rib ..... as for squared or bevelled - it may have changed from the T2 to T3 & decision entirely up to you ..... I think it looks better with the slats bevelled and as the original was that way it's the way I shaped them.

    I know one of the Pell boys in his T1 DC put the slats in with hex bolt and nuts - featured in a VWMA ..... he wished it upon no one owing to the difficulty in reaching some of the places under the tray :confused:

    For a clean look some form of adhesive for original pop rivets ..... make sure you got an industrial type pop rivet gun to do it with - I didn't and ended up with bruised palms from the amount of pressure required :eek:


    Slats  (4).JPG


    Ok so this picture of the under side of the slat shows a ridge ..... reason for this ridge was so there was minimal surface area contact between the wood and metal and minimise moisture being trapped .... it really was but a fly shit high ;)

    Slats  (7).JPG
     
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  19. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,688
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Thanks @KahunaKombi very useful image for references and information
     
  20. Poptop

    Poptop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    921
    Location:
    Clifton Hill, Victoria
    Hats off to the Slat men and suggest we need to add KK to the T2 DC Committee! I’ll measure / image the original exact stuff on my DC and send to you Wayne. Be good to have this for the others who follow in your path exultant one!
     
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