Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Wayne murray, Jul 6, 2016.
Check the end against the separation panel for gap distance and if beveled or square.
A couple of more pictures:
This one shows how the hole for a pop rivet is stepped - the marks on the new slat around the hole is because the pop rivet gun head was larger than the hole
This one shows the back of the tray - not all the slats got to the end of the channel and line up with the end of the ridges -
Looking like a beauty!
Put the wiper blades on,after some scrubbing and polishing. They where badly tarnished after being sitting somewhere for a long time. I'm missing the original stainless steel strip that holes the rubber wiper blades on,found some black ones which will do for know until I can find some stainless ones.
Since Bathurst was on yesterday ,I couldn't watch it but I changed my wheels over to the ones that will be on the car,with new wheel nuts as well.
I got my wheels powder coated,wish I had them painted know as the colour is more grayer then a aluminium silver. I will live with them for know.
Haven't posted for a while,few things haven't gone to plan but I've got a lot done.Trying to keep things in order so will be delaying posting until I can get a few things sorted. I've brought value stem extensions for my spare wheel so I can store the spare upside down under the 2/3 seat up front in the ute. So I can store all my spares but can also check the type pressure every time I check the other four wheels. The value extension goes through one of the holes so it can be done upside down. If I didn't have the extension on the spare the 2/3 seat needs to come out to get the spare out to check the tyre pressure.It was a pain in the bum so I changed it to make it more practical.
One piece of the puzzle that has taken a while to source arrived from Turkey. It was one of the only country's that I could find that made Kraft Aluminium air Hose. I was a bit worried about dealing with Turkish company,first time no paypal,direct deposit only. In the end I took the plunge and got it manufactured and sent over. I really only need 4-5 meters,as a manufacturer there minimum requirement and make length was 10 meters.
Kraft Aluminium hose 10 meters long 65 mm ID which is for the oil bath filter which is on the right hand side on a 72 kombi but it makes it way across the back of the car and ends up long side the fuel tank on the left hand side in the middle of the car. Long way round.
My little helper can't resist a box.
@OSF KC member gave me all his specs from when he ordered his seatbelts I've gone through these to then order mine. So thanks OSF for your hard work to help me get this sorted.
Seat belts I've ordered and fitted some where sent back,as I ordered XL which is 400mm longer then standard. They no longer make XL so they went to the next size which is 700mm longer without asking ,therefore the extra webbing wouldn't fit into the reel in the inertia.It wouldn't retract. I ordered it longer to make it more comfortable for a passenger who is a larger build person and a standard belt just fits. The XL belts are meant for cars that there fixing points are further apart not for larger built people.
Haven't taken photos of belts yet.
I'm also going to be redoing my seats. I've found that the coconut fibre is way to hard and unpractical. So I've brought the TMI molded foam padding that they supply and ordered the back seat. I was struggling to put the seat belts through the 2/3 seat and the back seat is hard to lift up to get things under the rear seat. It might be just me but I didn't like that so I plan on changing it.
Again trying to keep things in ordered,I'll post a little later the engine is well and truly under way The long block is made and tin ware starting to go on.
Getting closer to the final stages of this build,with holidays coming up fingers are crossed it might be done by then.
Nice job Wayne.
At this rate and if you get some time for more work on it over Christmas, I think you are going to be well and truly on the road before me. Can't wait to see you driving around in this thing.
P.S. Thanks for making me up a set of the load bed slats.
Wrap up of the seats which will next year be revisited. Seat belts are all in
Looking so much closer Wayne! Very nice work
Under mount seatbelts for rear seat
To me the rear seat that lifts up is to hard due to the coconut fibre and possibly the rubber mat that I added underneath it. So I had taken out all the back seat and added 1 mm vinyl to the bottom of the pedestal instead of the 3-4 mm rubber. At the moment I've got the rubber sitting on top of the bottom section of the pedestal,which I still need to cut the rubber around the inside posts of the pedestal,as it puckers the rubber. I did this to see if it makes the rear seat easier to lift up but it doesn't really make any difference. little more work to cut the rubber and a few scratches the trimmer did testing the seat in and out.
For the last 8ish weeks I've been the apprentice getting a master class lesson in engine building. I've never built an engine,knew the basic behind it all and what should go where. Putting it into practice is slightly a different story, master explaining how he does it made no cents to what was in my mind.Once the process got under way it made it more clearer and the understanding of why,was coming together. At times it felt like I had two left hands and needed a right hand in the assembly process (not enough hands) I managed. Just being the first time it felt clumsy to me. Original plan is to have a 1600 kombi motor,as a KC member mentioned my standard isn't always quite standard. I hadn't got a photo of every process,as the master had the wipe out.
New case was used,checked and cleaned before assembly. New case don't come with many external bolts no nuts so original ones where sourced,to put the two halves together. Issue is the oil strainers don't fit the pick up tube to well as they are making the pick up tube like the earlier style with a bend in it which fowls up on the oil strainer. The oil strainers some are being made out of steel which has no give,making them not fit.
Crank is an original 72 crankshaft that came out of my fathers 72 kombi motor. It has never been ground,it still is in 0 wear specks.The crank also has been in my 72 microbus for a spell until we restored the car 2010. I didn't have an original camshaft that hadn't been ground, engle had released couple years ago a new cam that is close to an original 1600 camshaft specs. Crank was striped of all gears measured check for wear ,cleaned and put new bearings and then reassembled the gears back on,Short block is assembled.
schadek 26 mm oil pump used.
Oil cooler is also fitted using a type 4 cooler which is 50% more oil cooling capacity over a type 1 cooler. Bit of modification to all the tinware that goes around the cooler including the bolts that hold it onto the oil block that bolts to the block
In the last post I didn't mentioned that the fly wheel had been shimmed for free play.
Next stage are the barrels and heads,I've gone for 87 mm barrels which is the next size up from 85.5 mm. Which will make the motor 1641 cc ,next size barrels require no machining to either the case or heads,for an up grade with no extra costs involved.
The barrels and pistons are washed,the oil rings checked for correct gap and then the piston relocated into it's barrel to suit it's final location in configuration to which cylinder it is going to be (IE 1,2,3,4) Which all barrels had already been marked up for what position they where going to be. One of the oil ring scrapers was missing a ring,lucky I had a spare from a damaged barrel from poor shipping.(long story in that)
Heads where also cleaned,values taken out and check to see if they where seated correctly and the volume of each head to see what CC they have. They are sold as having 53 cc but all mine where 50 cc making the compression ratio to high and a shim under the barrel required to lower this. The height of the piston travel in the barrel was also measured to be able to get the compression ratio. So the long block has been assembled with rockers and tappet covers on.
tinware between the barrels and one on the head as a deflector.
Used spring loaded push rod tubes.
generator stand also put on.
Tinware going over the barrels put on and the one that goes behind the pulley.
Nice to see the results Wayne. I, like you (before this ), have never rebuilt an engine. I still haven't and never will. Not where my skill wants to be. Been nice to see your journey with the master teaching & your added understanding of a rebuild. Tolerances, shims, lube whilst assembling etc.
Like the extra cooling & love how the tinware looks.
Thanks @David H ,the master like an encyclopedia in one book from A-Z .Rattling his grey matter is valuable experience,that I hold dear to me. I think he is enjoying it as well,well laughing at me earn and learn from it all.
Tinware is all 45 plus year tinware that had plenty of welding to fix up missing screw tabs,that hold the tinware down and for the extra cooling in width I needed.
Still looks stockish as the extra cooling isn't seen over the back of the fan housing. Neat trick
Like your work mate - I would like to change my type 1 oil cooler to a type 4 do you know if the mod details Needed such as the fan housing cut dimensions and filter engine bolt etc are available on the net anywhere?
Pretty sure they were on STF years ago
I will see what I can dig up
Thanks. I don't know if these mods are on a web site,I take it they would be some where,as @Barry might know better then me on where it may be.
I've basically had a type 1 set up, with the minimum required to be able to modified the tin ware to make it all work(fit)
The two bolts that hold the cooler on need to be made longer.
The tin ware L shape that goes around the cooler and bolts on at the base of the cooler needs to be longer
The fan housing for the cooler needs to be cut and made wider by about 20 mm
The other half that covers the cooler needs to be cut in half and add 20 mm
The exit piece of tinware that lets the hot air out the back, needs the bolt on tabs extended (longer) and the angle section on that tinware straightened and bent in a different position in relation to where it goes through the tinware that goes behind the engine and also wraps around .
I mentioned 20 mm I tack on the required amount needed on all pieces and make sure it all fits before doing the complete the welding.
Top job Wayne, your patience and attention to detail is to be admired. Looking forward to seeing your project in the future.
My hard drive in my computer died,had a new one fitted but still had to retrieve my photos of the old hard drive,to be able to post photos. I thought I'll lost them and then the time it takes to transfer them over is time consuming.
Added more tinware and external components onto the engine. Started with the thermostat control flaps inside the fan housing and the thermostat under the rhs head,with the rod connecting them together.Then at the rear of the fan housing adding the levers to the lhs and the return spring
Heat exchanges where bolted on,tinware to blank off the gap between the heat exchanges and block
Pre heat and manifolds on .With an original 34 pic 3 carburettor,that has only done 70,000 km of service. Carby kit went through it.
38 amp generator,pulley and fan belt
heater levers on with a pin which had to machine a new groove into it to make it shorter
oil filler bolted on,Rubber grommet where it goes through the tinware. Had to weld the pressure relieve pipe as it had been broken off,used a new oil pick up pipe which is the same diameter.
72 rear engine bar for a 1600 motor bolted on,which you can't tell have special bolts to bolt it on.
Nearly there Wayne. Looks fantastic.
I reckon I can beat this one up a hill. I wish!
Light at the end of the tunnel is getting larger,inching closer to it. You will give me a good head start up that hill
Separate names with a comma.