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My T3 is playing up ......

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by Reiner, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I own a fuel injected 82 model Bus and every few weeks it decides to test my patients
    It runs beautiful for weeks and out of nowhere it misses and feels like running out of petrol
    I found a lot of rust in the tank about two years ago and fitted a brand new tank plus a new fuel pump
    So now I have clean fuel
    But that doesn't make any difference
    I replaced the distributor, the coil, all leads the plugs and cleaned all electrical connections I could find
    It happened again it played up for some minutes and nearly stranded me on the side of the road but run beautiful for the next 30 km home after that
    So I thought maybe the computer is turning my fuel pump off so I fitted a voltmeter parallel to the pump
    It happened again but the fuel pump had 12 volt supplied no problem
    This time the car wouldn't come good and I had to call a tow truck
    Took it to a good mechanic not far from home and he went trough fuel and sparks and couldn't find anything wrong
    He said all of a sudden after doing all sort of weird stuff it ran fine. He kept it for a few days and drove it around without any problems.
    I know it will play up again and I'm very tempted to remove the fuel injection with computer and all the bits and fit carburettors.
    Does anybody here have any ideas?
    Cheers
    Reiner
     
  2. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,491
    Location:
    Gosford
    Hi Reiner
    Does the problem happen when you are low on fuel? as many of the replacement tanks do not have the correct swirl pot in them and when low on fuel can feel like they are starving for fuel. Check all the earth connections. Have heard of similar problems with the harness to the computer with broken wire.
     
  3. AC-T3

    AC-T3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Location:
    Woy Woy
    This sounds familiar. Have you checked the cylinder temperature sensor? Couldn't see it mentioned above. If this mucks up (it doesn't need to fail completely) then the box of wires controlling fuel delivery goes all out of wack. It can be tested for resistance before replacing. Only fifty something bucks new and Mick Motors should have one. They come as either Bosch or VW - stick with bosch.

    Rob
     
  4. peace_fam

    peace_fam Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mount Martha
    Had the same problem. Replaced all the fuel injectors including the starter injector, the coil, sparks, leads and the hall effect sensor, cleaned out fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and no problems thereafter.

    Though the order was more 1: like cleaned fuel tank, replaced filter, 2: replaced coil,leads, plugs 3: replaced all fuel injectors and at this stage problem significantly reduced then 4: replaced hall effect sensor

    Have all of those been checked?
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  5. theigloo

    theigloo New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    Gladstone NSW
    Here is a crazy thing that happened to me, I had the same symptoms as you describe.

    Went through all the checks, fuel, spark, earth straps ect. in the end I found that my ignition switch on the steering column was old and loose and with the weight of the other keys swinging around this would cause the ignition to cut in and out.

    worth a check
     
  6. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane

    Thanks Luckyphil but my tank is full and it run messy againtoday.....fine for about 30km and then playing up running badly but I made it home
     
  7. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks Rob, mine is a aircooled one I dont think I have a cylinder temp sensor.....do I?
     
  8. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks mate, I done all that and more but I have to find out what or where the hall effect sensor is.....hmmm
     
  9. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I had the same thing happen to me on my old Beetle......took me ages to find out. One of the first things was the ignition lock on the Kombi
    I keep reading about the Vanagon Syndrome.......could that be my problem?
     
  10. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,640
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    That's only on the MV 2.1 engine.
     
  11. theigloo

    theigloo New Member

    Messages:
    15
    Location:
    Gladstone NSW
    It sounds electrical to me, 1982 is a loooong time ago, for any 12v dc connection not to be green and corroded.

    How much do you love you van? I love mine so I went through every connection and I mean every one and cleaned with wire brush and spray with wd40 especially behind the fuse box allot of green there, check every one and make new, pull plugs and lugs apart brush and spray. (may pay to disconnect battery when doing)

    It sounds like a big job but if you take your time and be systematic you will get there and I assure you will find bad wires.

    corroded terminals can do strange things to electricity, can work one minute and not the next current has a mind of its own.
     
  12. peace_fam

    peace_fam Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mount Martha
    It's part of the distributor. I had a friend doing the work though
     
  13. peace_fam

    peace_fam Member

    Messages:
    247
    Location:
    Mount Martha
    It's part of the distributor. I had a friend doing the work though. This is one of the part put in to fix the issue: Pertronix Ignitor Electronic Ignition System
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2014
  14. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    How much do I love my T3......well the woman offered to buy me a new T5 Multivan and I decided I rather keep my T3.
    So I think I love my car a lot....hehe
    I might have to do the clean all the connections thing and if that doesn't work I rip the fuel injection out and fit carbies.
    Just got home after a about 20km drive and it drove beautiful until it got warm enough and did it again .
    the last 3 km it just jumped and missed. I turned the ignition off let it sit for maybe 30 sec and it starts agin...runs ok but afew seconds later it plays up again.
    I bet if I let cool it down completly it will run fine again until it reaches about 80 degrees and it will play up again.
    It does feel an electrical problem so i will do the contact clean , it wouldnt hurt anyway
    Thanks mate.
     
  15. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,491
    Location:
    Gosford
    Have you investigated the advice Rob gave you. He has his air cooled T3 running well as he has worked through all the problems so I would seriously consider his advice. You yourself feel it may be temp related so the temp sensor would be the first place to start.
     
  16. AC-T3

    AC-T3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Location:
    Woy Woy
    Reiner, the AC Type 4 motor has a cylinder head temperature sensor (not to be confused with sender that feeds a temp guage) located above No 3 cylinder - hard to see but is a short stumpy 13mm (or about) hex head with a short wire protuding from the top. If you don't have a Bently or Haines manual to see what I'm talking about - go to the Just Kampers or Google it up. This sensor reads the rise in cylinder head temperature and tells the box of wires how to adjust the air/fuel mix as the engine transitions from cold to warm running. They have caused so much trouble even way back then that VW introduced a spacer for L-Jetronic fueled bugs and buses to help offset failing sensors. Why? Why not just replace it when its crook? I did. To get it out you'll need to un-join the joiner, feed the black wire through a ring spanner and then fiddle your way through some 247,000 fiddles and twists. Mongrel of a place stuck under the intake plenum and runners. I still can't figure out what the krauts were thinging when they laid up the design.

    It may not be the sensor which should bench test to 2500 Ohm at 20 degrees (it can be tested in situ). If not, I'd go condensor next, for these also can do what you are experiencing. It's a good rule to replace condensors when replacing points at 10,000km - some say this is an extravagant waste but its what the book and VW stipulate, and will keep the motor in good order. And by the way, a type 4 motor running stock ignition does not have a Hall Effect Module in the distibutor - these came with electronic igition fitted to the 1.9 water coolers in 1984 - they can be retro fitted to an AC but when they do fail on the side of the road (and electronic units do fail), where do you start looking? Points and condensor suit me just fine. In all my miles I've only had one condensor go down - this was when ther were no Type 4 condensors in the country (boat still on the water coming out from europe) so fitted a Mk 1 Golf 1600 unit - same spec, and guess what, it did what you have described.

    Good luck

    Rob
     
  17. AC-T3

    AC-T3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Location:
    Woy Woy
    Reiner, I'm keen to hear how your getting on sorting your issues with the '82 EFI. Have you had any luck yet? Please do stick with the L-Jetronic system as it is bullet proof, economical and trustworthy when running right. A change to carbs will cost big bucks - IF you can source a set of low mount carbie manifolds to keep the air cleaners below rear deck height. The only reason to dump the EFI is if you want to build a bigger and more powerful engine - for the L-Jetronic system cannot be "reprogrammed or re-mapped" - perhaps increase fuel delivery pressure but thats about it.

    Rob
     
  18. beerboy

    beerboy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,037
    Location:
    Sydney
    I had a very similar problem with fuel delivery and did like you and do lots of new parts. car used to just die and then start again and run fine. Turned out to he the new replacement coil. It eventually gave up and fitting a "new" old coil fixed it. check to see if the new coil has oil in it. I never would have thought of this without lots of pain. crap chinese coild with oil rather than metal coil was the clue.
     
  19. chewtah

    chewtah Guest

    You could try blowing out fuel lines where ever you can, disconnect both ends and shoot air up one end. There may be a 'floater' up one of the lines. A bike pump would have enough pressure to do that. If your fuel tank builds a lot of vacuum up, it could do this, too much negative pressure for the fuel pump to overcome. The return fuel line should be clear too.
     
  20. Reiner

    Reiner New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Thanks Rob.....still not sorted. I bought a second hand computer from Stokers but that was no good, car wouldnt evenb start. I put my old one back in and it started. The shop said they can send the unit to Melbourne and get it fixed. So that is where we are.....I'm still waiting for the fixed computer.
    I did ring around and tried to find a unit but without luck I would love to know if that would fix it.
    I will report back when I get my unit back or found a replacement.
    Cheers
     

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