My T3 Single Cab Project

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Grantus, Apr 13, 2015.

  1. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    May 2009 I looked at this T3 SC. It's had a hard working life, and was needing a good home. It's more of a project than I was after, but I couldn't walk away, risking it going on to hard labour without proper maintenance, and ending up as scrap metal - the metal that had not rusted away in the future, that is.

    Needless to say, it followed me home.

    So a few pics at purchase time:

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    It was not without issues, that needed attention. At some stage it had a "blow over" of almost the same white, but unknown type of paint, complete with runs and areas of flaking do to poor or zero prep work.

    I decided that a bare metal start, would ensure a good bond for new paint, and also reveal any hidden issues.

    So the choices were, a heap of sanding, sending it off for sand or bead blasting, or paint stripper.

    Looking at an alternative to the mess and metal pitting of blasting, I opted for a non toxic, biodegradeable product that I could use at home, called "PEELAWAY 8"

    It's applied in a coat of paste 3-5mm thick, then sealed with the supplied paper to keep any air out:

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    Then I continued on the rest of the panels, and left it on minimum of 3 days.

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    3 Days later, it was time to peel away the paper, with the paint attached. Anything left, was soft enough to remove with a scraper.

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    The end result was lots of shiny bare metal everywhere!

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    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
    mixalongmez and Serious85 like this.
  2. that looks easy enough Grant
     
  3. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    With a fully exposed shell, I turned my attention to the seams. Seam rot is very common in T3's as the sealant gets old and brittle, no longer sealing the seams as they should.

    After removing the sealant from a couple of areas, and finding the surface rust I was looking for, I then proceeded to remove all the sealer from every seam.

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    After all the sealant was removed, I then flooded every seam with Penetrol, allowed it 3 days to harden off and lock in the rust.

    Then the seams were then resealed with Sikaflex Auto Car Body Sealant.

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    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  4. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,293
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    Gosford
    Wow that turned out great, cant wait to see it at Old bar.
     
  5. nils

    nils Well-Known Member

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    newcastle
    we can lay anything but eggs! that should be your new signature Grant
     
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  6. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Would be much easier on larger panels, and took some fiddly time to apply and tape off the detail areas, but no pitting, or sand residue you get with blasting.

    Had to resort to conventional caustic paint stripper for the vents, as I couldn't get an air seal for the Peelaway 8 to work.
    Cheers Phil, Won't be ready for Berry, so Old Bar may be it's debut!:)
    Errm PASS? Previous owner was a tiler, and I guess it was his sense of humour.......... but feel free to have it for your sig, if you wish Nils.:p
     
  7. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    On to the next day of mega fun with this newly acquired hobby. I'm sure this whole process is enjoyable to some, and I thought I'd be getting more pleasure from the process, but there were days where I just couldn't face it, and I had to go and do some real work, to save my sanity.

    At this point, I must confess that of my skills and qualifications, panelbeater, metalwork, welding, and automotive body finishing are not any of them.

    It's all new ground for me, but after reading many threads on resto here, and having obtained a professional quote for between $15k and $2ok to do a full resto, I figured I should just give it a go.

    The goal was to get it rust free, watertight and presentable.

    The next task was to tackle the back of the cabin, probably the most badly damaged part of the vehicle.

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    Some creative supports and a scissor jack mangaed to push back the larger dings to somewhere near where they should be.

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    Then on to an afternoon of noisy smacking metal, with a trusty assistant of the other side, using various hammers, dolleys and supports, to get it back to an acceptable straightness.

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    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  8. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,693
    Location:
    Goulburn
    awsome work Grant

    is that the same rusty ute that was sitting in your carport when I last dropped in??
     
  9. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    The very same.

    Quite straight, but a bit rusty. Too young to pass as a "rat", so needed sorting. ;)
     
  10. Serious85

    Serious85 Active Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Logan
    Looking good. How much peelaway8 did you use?
     
  11. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Southern ACT
    15kgs of Peelaway 8 did all the external panels & roof on the rolling shell, not including the tray, which is rotted and will be removed and replaced, at a later date.

    The gal doors and gates were just sanded back to original primer.
     
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  12. Serious85

    Serious85 Active Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Logan
    Nice, I might try this on my roof.
     
  13. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
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    5kgs is def not enough for a full roof, and the next size up is a 15kg pack.

    Price per kg gets cheaper, the larger the container. ie. 2 x 5kgs packs is only slightly cheaper than 1 x 15kgs. ;)

    My rough guess for a roof would be 9-13kgs, depending upon the coating thickness. Too thin a coat, and it won't be effective, and you'll end up doing it twice.

    Had a result after 2 days, which needed some final sanding afterwards.

    I found 3-4 days worked better.

    Let me know if you go that path, and feel frre to ask any questions during the process.:)
     
    Serious85 likes this.
  14. Serious85

    Serious85 Active Member

    Messages:
    179
    Location:
    Logan
    Nice, thanks Grantus, I just checked their website, it's $2 cheaper to get 15kg over 2 x 5kg tubs, but I'll have to give the Brisbane supplier a call and see. I'll have a think about it. Definitely easier than getting up there with a blaster or sanding.
     
  15. Gerry and Robyn

    Gerry and Robyn Active Member

    Messages:
    546
    Location:
    Lilydale Vic. Australia
    Hi Grant, I've never heard of "Peel Away". It certainly would save time, effort and provide a cleaner 'blank canvas' to work from. Great photos and comprehensive explanatory. Good luck with the project.
    Gerry.
     
  16. gazman

    gazman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,755
    Location:
    Perth WA
    As above, I've never seen that stuff either but its great to see new products like this that work. Great work so far Grantus, oh and if you think thats rusty you should see some of the basket-case projects I've got at the moment, I dream of resto projects like this haha...
     
  17. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    899
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Does anyone know what the peelaway product does to bog?
     
  18. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    17,559
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Looks good Grant - you cabin assistant may also be used in the storage area if the try needs popping out IF it is salvageable - I used a jack and couple of bits of timber to pop out the tray when I was fitting the timbers slats, guess where the majority od dents were = where the rivet holes were :mad:, then in the engine bay it was leverage with the 2x2 or 4x2 or which piece of timber fitted and did the job :p
     
  19. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    It surface softened areas of bog on this vehicle, after 3 days, and if left longer, may have softened it completely. Large areas of bog were chiseled and sanded off, so I could bring the metal back into shape.

    After neutralising with water, and any peelaway 8 activator evaporated, it seems to harden back to sandable.


    I started with that dream Bert, but on a sunny day, there is more spots of light in the locker storage than a dancefloor! Where the tray hasn't rusted right through, the surface rust has left the metal almost paper thin, so it's got to go. :(
     
  20. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,710
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    I purchased a pair of Caravelle front doors from an Ebayer in the Adelaide Hills. These came with electric mirrors and much less damage to repair, than the original ones on the SC.

    Those who went to The Bust Stop in Swan Hill, may have seen them on route. KC Express, in the form of John Doherty, from Adelaide Hills to Swan Hill, and Bernie (saabman), from Swan Hill to Goulburn, did a fantastic transport job. Thanks again guys.

    These doors were stripped down to shells, and a drying rack made for painting.

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    After sanding back and repairing any damage, they went into primer, along with the locker doors, engine lid and gates.

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    The bullbar and tow bar got the same back to bare metal treatment, after welding fog and driving lights brackets on the bullbar, and fabricating and welding a full width crash protection bar onto the tow bar.

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    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017

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