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new 2L 76 questions

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by deepburn13, Jan 9, 2014.

  1. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Here's the motor of my new 2L 76 camper. So far have fixed a couple of leaky pushrods, adjusted tappets, oil change etc. Im told the oil filler and dipstick has been moved. I cant find an engine number in the normal place. The papers have an engine number tho. No timing marks that i can see. There are a few random wires hanging in the front that I cant figure out what they're for, although I figured out that the black & blue double wire is a carby solenoid (i think) and the reversing light power lead. The red one is the fuel pump. Not sure about the orange or the other disconected one.

    Any info or insight anyone has would be great!

    Cheers,
    Scott

    [​IMG]
     
  2. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,361
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Are the auto chokes hooked up
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,570
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    timing notches should be on pulley on inner flange. Timing scale missing. no idea on orange wire , pull it off and check if the wire or the coil terminal still have 12V. with ign on.
    damn strange spot for dipstick, should be thru hole on LH side of alternator tinware. probably wrong length as well.
    oil filler on top of crankcase breather ?
    plate glued over acess hole for adjusting alt.
    mismatch of HT leads so should be a rewarding excersise cleaning up electrics and checking dissy /carbs etc for butchery
    Noice .

    whatever you do should be a gain :lol:

    cheers
    col
     
  4. Weekender

    Weekender Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    494
    Location:
    Pomona Q
    The foam seal between the engine tinware and the car body appears to be missing. This is an essential part of the air cooling system.
     
    Tooli Glenn likes this.
  5. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Ah auto chokes! maybe thats it. I must say im a little over my head with a type 4 engine after just learning my way around my 1600.

    Thanks for that Col, there is a hole in the rubber thing to the left of the alternator that looks like it once had a dipstick going thru it, but when i pulled the rubber thing out i just found more engine block (i think....or just tinware only - no hole). Will take a pic tomoro to be a little clearer.

    Ive seen the oil filler in that spot in a few pics ive seen, is that unusual as well as the dipstick?

    I adjusted the fan belt yesterday (also did the foam seal - cheers Weekender) and that glued on cover was just a piece rubber. Will order a proper rubber plug thing i reckon.

    Took it for a drive today since doing pushrod seals, tappets, belt, points, foam seal and she goes really well! So much more go than my 1600! and a lot lighter to drive! Late bay steering boxes are awesome! BUT, i only drove for about 10 mins and she was very hot! Heat was from the exaust areas, even the rear bumper was hot. Hoping this is due to carbies as Ive been told they are in need of attention in terms of mixtures etc.

    Cheers all,
    Scott
     
  6. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,012
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Pretty sure this is not an original bus motor. The oil filler is the key. I have a feeling it may be a Porsche 914 engine or perhaps a Type 4 (car not engine type) that has had the fan housing off a bus engine fitted. Have seen pics of a few and that is what leads me to think that may explain some things. You need to find the engine number and I think if you look between the breather box and the fan housing you might find it. The one on the fan housing will not be the real case number.

    The type IV engine was originally fitted to the Type 4 car and then also used in the 914 as well as the bus. The porsche one has a few different parts and special mods.

    Adrian
     
  7. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,988
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    mmm....it really doesn't look much like my 2ltr. stock that I'm running. Dipstick & oil filler would require major modifications to have been placed in those positions if it was...Good luck tracking it down.
    Bently & John Muir's have extensive lists of engine numbers & matched descriptions, might be worth a look once you find a number. Cheers, Mark
     
  8. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,570
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    With Mord on that.
    So dont be quick to get rid of the motor as if it is as suspected may have a few different bits on it that a few people chase.

    If its realy hot at exhaust then its possible combustion temps are elevated. Timing and /or lean mix. plus other possibilities :)
     
  9. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    So i found these two numbers today:

    EB009277 at the back of the engine bay down near where the engine connects to the gearbox.

    82219108 near the breather box, wasnt engraved, look like it was printed and very smudged and hard to read.
     
  10. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,683
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Yep, case # is Porsche 914/vw 411 and is consistent with where they placed the engine #. The EB engine code is "Californian only", so probably wandered over in a US spec 914, then got ditched for a 2.0 or bigger like most do. It was a 1700 EFI(Bosch D-Jetronic)...the distributor might still be an EFI trigger point distributor(will be an extra plug lower down the side) in spotting the dual vacuum can. Fan housing and alternator tin is consistent with a 1700. It might well still be a 1700. Sad thing is that it was the low comp version. (7.3:1)...The Euro versions had higher compression and were 80HP.

    There seems to be almost nothing holding the fan housing halves together. Most of the bolts are missing. The right lower heater duct is a late bus EFI unit(to redirect around the Injected air cleaner).

    The disconnected wire(grey with green trace) is the tacho signal for the VW diagnostic plug that should be on the ceiling of the engine bay. Normally wired to the (-) on the coil.

    Has to be an absolute dog to top up with oil...

    IMHO...looks like it has been cobbled together from scraps.

    The current distributor will be a major source of heat with badly incorrect timing.

    I will agree that your carbs will probably need work too(who knows what spec they are...there ARE many), more than likely need changing, in looking at the rest of the motor.
     
  11. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks for the info! Although I am freaking out a bit now. Papers had a 2L engine no and I didn't know enough about type 4 engines. Seems a lot more power than my 1600! Have I bought a dud here?

    Had a comp check done before buying.....
    Cly1 120, cly2 110, Cly3 120, cly4 110
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2014
  12. nickc

    nickc Member

    Messages:
    307
    Location:
    currumbin qld
    Sure looks different to mine DSC06339.jpg
     
  13. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    3,012
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    It could be still a 2 litre if they have rebuilt it using a 2 litre crank and rods barrells and pistons. The case at least is originally a 914 1700cc part, but if it had been rebuilt it could have any parts put in to it. Lots of options. With that compression I would try to get all the outside (carbs dizzy etc) sorted to match a 2litre and work from there. Case of work with what you have, unless you want to throw a bunch of money to end up with a perfect original. Up to you in the end.

    Adrian
     
  14. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,036
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    May be a hoon mobile! An interesting challenge.
     
  15. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,683
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Pop off the rocker covers and note the part numbers on the heads... That should start to tell the story.
     
  16. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks again guys. Will explore further tomorrow.
    Scott
     
  17. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Looks like its 1700 heads

    Heads 021.101.371Q

    Dizzy number is 021 905 205 N

    Should I be changin the dizzy due to heat problems?
     
  18. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,683
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    The dizzy is a Kombi 1800 "M157" carbureted distributor and needs its matching carbs to ever have a chance of operating correctly as they have specific porting and jetting to suit both the 1800 motor and the Dual Vacuum can on the distributor...

    "M157" is the option code for 'low emissions' where the distributor controlled the advance curve more tightly to limit Hydrocarbon emissions along with leaner carb jetting and sodium filled exhaust valves to deal with more heat..


    Heads are 1700. Not looking good for the 2L claim..

    The plot thickens...

    Due to the mish/mash of engine bits , it really should be assessed closely by somebody who really knows these engines to see what else is potentially missing(like oil cooler tinware/flaps in the fan housing).

    Yes, that distributor needs to be flicked....but also depends on the carbs that are on it.

    You can check the carb spec by getting a mirror and viewing the stamped numbers/ letters UNDER the float bowl of each carburettor.

    They determine matching pairs, matching distributor and the spec of engine they should be on. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  19. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    Thanks so much 1500king! Great advise as usual!
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2014
  20. deepburn13

    deepburn13 Member

    Messages:
    257
    Location:
    Adelaide
    These are the carb numbers i found: Left solex 32-34 PDSIT-2. Right solex 32-34 PDSIT-3

    When i got the compression check i got a few other things checked and was told in the report that there is likely to be an air vacume leak.

    Here are some more pics to help solve the puzzle. Glad i didnt pay too much for this bus! Sheesh!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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