New Member

Discussion in 'New Members' started by Sahara Hilton, Dec 24, 2017.

  1. Sahara Hilton

    Sahara Hilton Member

    Extracts from KC's "The Rules - Please Read" - relating to the responsibilities of KC Moderators.

    See the complete original Pinned Thread in 'Announcements', by Admin., Jul 3, 2005.

    Original status of that Thread: NOT Open for Replies.


    Moderators will be responsible for enforcing these Rules in the forum for which they have responsibility.
    In cases of a minor departure from the Rules, Moderators will edit or move/delete posts.
    In the case of more serious or repeated departures from these Rules, Moderators will PM the user(s) involved and advise them of the problem.
    The user can then choose whether or not to refer the dispute to Admin. for resolution.
    If Moderators disagree whether any action should take place they will refer the matter to Admin. who will view the disputed post and make a decision.

    If a warning is deemed appropriate to any member, an infraction notice will be given.
    This will occasionally, if serious enough, limit the member's use of the site.
    Only one notice will be issued; if that member continues to misuse the site, further action will be taken.

    A Moderator CANNOT ban users. In circumstances where a serious breach or breaches of these Rules occur, only the Moderators AND Admin. will have the ability to ban a user, when [i.e., after] a majority decision has been reached.
    Discussions between the Moderators involved AND Admin. must reach a consensus
    BEFORE banning takes place.
    Any disputed action taken by Moderators (including SuperModerators) should be referred to Admin.


    Those are important parts of the KC_RULES that are to be upheld by Moderators AND “Admin.” in their dealings with KC Members. Those Rules have applied since 2005.

    References in The Rules to actions by KC's “Moderators” also includes KC's "SuperModerators".
    Neither Moderators nor SuperModerators have any SuperPowers !
    Fortunately, "Admin." may indeed have.
    At best, all Moderators including all SuperModerators have no more than primus inter pares status vis-a-vis "Admin.".
    Moderators including SuperModerators are obliged by these Rules to give advice by PM to members before doing anything untoward that would affect members' perceived 'serious' breaches of these Rules (other than Ms'/SMs' authority, of necessity, promptly to edit or to omit any posts reasonably deemed to be truly objectionable).
    Remember, your own Reporting another member's posting, including those of a Moderator or of a SuperModerator, is NOT of itself an objectionable act by any KC member.
    Member's Reports each must be evaluated upon their merits.
    Reports should not be arbitrarily dismissed by anyone acting alone.

    Of course, it should be patently obvious that it must be a gross conflict-of-interest for any Moderator or SuperModerator acting alone to take any decision or to act upon a member's Report that has been made against the KC 'Staff' member.
    BANNING-Unilaterally by a Moderator or a SuperModerators who acts alone, without their having consulted with Admin., and especially before the KC 'Staff' collectively takes some mutually-agreed action, is NOT sanctioned by these Rules. Never.
    Any KC Banning decision must involve providing the due notice(s) to affected members, as well as KC reaching a consensus view among Moderators including with Admin. about the appropriate action to be taken, decided beforehand.
    SPECIAL NOTE - KC's Admin. CAN be Contacted by eMail (i.e., person to person), outside of this KC forum.

    Lastly, it's not in The Rules, but also be aware that - "Staff members may not be ignored".
    That simply means that KC's software does not permit you to UNfollow any of them as individuals.
    Happily, anyone's personal contempt for a KC_Staff member for their acting alone outside of 'The Rules',
    can quite usefully become the fount of retrospectively-substituted texts such as this one of mine.

    Aside - BusyBear's 'like' below did not relate to any of this text. The other members' texts below, related to former texts that no longer are relevant.

    For that party that never ends ..
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2018
    BusyBear likes this.
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Abbotsford NSW
    G'day and welcome

    Doesnt sound too drastic

    May be a simple as a re-ring

    A few of the ACT crowd will give you guidance on local mechanics

    Otherwise I will say give Mike a call at Custom Bugs and Busses
    1/21 Peachtree Road, Penrith NSW 2750
    Phone: 02 4722 9313

    Mike does Type 4 motors
  3. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Hi Sahara Hilton,
    Welcome to Kombi Club. You've got one of the rarer campers in that Westfalia:D. Canberra member Grantus can put you onto a good mechanic in Canberra;).
  4. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Avalon Beach NSW
    Welcome to KC....
    x2 for Mike at CBB....
    He has a very busy workshop, so you could be waiting a while......but worth a call if nothing in ACT eventuates,
    Mike handles my bus......I wouldn’t go anywhere else. :cool:
  5. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    sunshine coast
    Most likely you are correct and will need a proper rebuild.
    Be careful selecting engine builders.

    In meantime.
    Have you done oil pressure checks, compression and leak down test and checked endplay to see how worn engine is?
    What noises indicating wear?
    There's a remote possibility that the oil ring is gummed up and may respond to some ' dodgy' flushes to reactivate it.
    Many oil leaks are fixable relatively easily.
    May be a combination of all of above that is leading to high loss??

    Wishfull thinking but maybe worth establishing .
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Avalon Beach NSW
    I’m runnng a stock 2ltr, dual carb. CJ engine & gearbox. Mike rebuilt both and the carbs. at the same time.
    It has never let me down and I do a lot of miles.
    Just remember when you shop around, with VW get what you pay for.
    Cheap does not equal good.......ever.
    I cannot recommend Mike highly enough. He’s a straight talking perfectionist that will not do 1/2 a’s either properly done or not at all.
    Yup, a bit of a hike from Av. to Penrith......but worth every minute.
  7. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    sunshine coast
    Agree with steps taken so far and advice being reasonable.
    No.3 cyl is often first to show problems.
    Although a gummed up oil ring can often be sorted satisfactorily, having a full reco with ancilleries also refurbished does make for reliability and less oily hands later, hopefully.

    If you do a drive in, drive out with Mike it will be set up and have initial cam break in done on dyno.
    I would go one further and rack up the next 500 or 1k km locally or in a short trip then have him do the next oil change and check.

    I like having builder/ installer do first couple of tunes if possible to guarantee no issues with warranties.

  8. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Southern ACT
    Welcome to the Kombi Club! :)

    For your Kombi, I’d have to suggest you contact A&R Autos in Mitchell, to get an opinion.

    Enjoy they ride..........;)
  9. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Southern ACT
    If Angelo has retired, his son will still be there, (and I can’t imagine Angelo being too far away).

    Unlike some other Canberra establishments, I haven’t heard any negative reports about A&R.

    My mechanic at Canberra VW Centre Tuggeranong, no longer works on air cooled, apart from his own.

    Which part of Canberra are you?
  10. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Seven hills
    Welcome to Sahara Hilton to the KC ,Hope you kombi engine is sorted for you to enjoy it again.
  11. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Sahara - welcome to the party that never ends ;)

    Glad Grant(us) posted as on reading your 1st post thought he'd be the best being in the ACT to offer a local content :D
  12. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Southern ACT
    Thanks, but they are far from immaculate. Both are 2.1 litre genuine VW MV watercooled motors.

    Hopefully they just look like reasonably tidy workhorses......which is what they are. ;)

    Pull me over for a chat, or a coffee if you come across one around the ACT. :)
  13. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    sunshine coast

    With caveat that I am NOT a mechanic ;)
    There are others on this forum who can probably answer better.

    I use the term ' dodgy' lightly as many people try magic fixes with little understanding and often rely in magic cures when some sound engineering practices should be used.
    But the following is often successful if done carefuly and gummed rings were in fact the issue.

    Having said that.. It has been practice in older cars in days past to loosen sticky valves and rings by replacing the oil with a mix of fresh oil and kerosene.
    ( oils were much worse back then)
    Ratio up to 50% kero.
    Important the recognise the reduced lubricating properties of the oil and only idle the engine so as to limit loads.
    Engine is idled for up to 20 minutes then oil drained and fresh oil run at idle for short period to flush.
    Then drain and refill with fresh oil and new filter.
    Run as normal.

    I wouldn't expect addition of any substance into cylinder via spark plug hole to be much help on a boxer engine. ( difficult to get it where it needs to be?)

    You could try oil additives that claim to clean.
    I think some are idle only and others can be run in car prior to a change.
    How effective these may be to sort a stuck oil control ring I have no idea.
    ( wouldn't be surprised if they are just kero,diesel) ;)
    I would talk to your chosen mechanic first and see what response you get.
    I would recommended the mechanic mentioned by Grant . Based on my respect for Grants knowledge, approach and being a fussy bugger ;)

    A mechanic can see a lot more than we can decipher on a forum.
    Looking at a full range of various indicators gives a much better idea of the problem.
    Obviously dependent on skill and honesty of mechanic in general circumstance's but confident to follow Grants suggestion.

    Testing oil pressure at operating temp may give some indication of possible bottom end wear.
    A leak down test will show valve or ring issues.

    All this can give an indication of if the motor is a candidate for some remeditive attempts or just jump to a rebuild.

    If some attempt at unsticking ring is considered then also identify where oil leaks are coming from.
    Rear main seal is a drop engine job.
    Leaks over heater boxes are rocker cover gaskets or push rod tube seals.
    Observation and removing the cover s underneath push rod tubes is easy.
    Oil over oil filter when filter is not the problem indicated oil cooler seals.
    Oil on top if engine behind dissy is oil light sender failure.
    Oil on offside rear is often dipstick bellows.

    If there is a lot of sticky deposit inside exhaust and significant blue smoke then burning oil is a likely area of oil loss.
    Obviously spark plug is struggling with oil in combustion chamber.
    If there is a lot of splatter over rear if van and signicant oil smell from heater boxes then investigate leaks.

    IF bottom end was considered ok and other cylinders acceptable then it may be an option to drop engine and clean the one cylinder plus recut all valves or then refit.
    Likely this may be near half the cost of reco.
    In which case full reco is likely preferable.

    Also given previous mechanics comments and accumulated miles you are likely due for a full reco?

    Thus endeth that part.

    I haven't seen Mikes workshop but am a great believer in accurate measurements.
    We had a good mechanic at one of the well known shops up here who did good work sorting peoples issues that had previously been undiagnosed.
    A good mechanic an a dyno saves guessing and bullshit.
    The numbers are printed as proof.

    Once a vehicle is set up right it should stay that way for a long time.
    And is a pleasure to drive.

    I used to work with the old vane analysers and enjoy working with facts rather than 'maybes'.

    I haven't had any work done by Mike but have spoken at length with Mark and Rob ( AC-T3) ,both whom have engines by Mike.
    Both persons I trust for opinion as they are detailed in their assesments and have a similar approach as myself which satisfies me.

    Longwinded but hopefully some help.

  14. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Southern ACT
    Further to my other post.....I’ve never personally had A&R work on my Kombis, and have only met and chatted to Angelo, at length, socially, at his families birthdays etc.

    His knowledge of air cooled VW’s is second to none, and I also know, if ever he’s selling a Kombi, it’s honestly priced, and in a mechanical condition that is worth buying. He won’t sell “crap”, or flip for profit.

    If he has retired, (and I’ll ask his daughter when she’s back from holidays at the coast in January), I’m sure he would still be involved in an advisory or supervision role.

    Even if you don’t “click”, to get them to do the work, they will be able to give you an honest assessment of what is actually required. ;)
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2017
    cbus and David H like this.
  15. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    This may be a relevant T Shirt (have one myself)

  16. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    sunshine coast
    A chat with mechanic mentioned by Grant would be a good start.
    Dyno not essential but a valuable addition if available.
    Mixtures can also be checked with portable gas analysers / broadband O2 units.
    A good engine builder can do good work based on good measurements and workmanship.

    Blueprinting is doing the job to closer tolerances.
    A good builder will take greater care anyway compared one who just assembles what he buys as spare parts .
    But blueprinting is taking a few steps further with greater care in balancing and tolerances.

    It costs more as can be time very consuming plus requires skill and sound knowledge. But will result in more power due to better efficiency and less losses. Also a smoother engine with longer lifespan.

    There is a limit tho. A high degree of blueprinting to very fine tolerances is only needed for high reving ,high powered engines.

    Discussion with A&R will put things in perspective.

    The other terms often used in rebuilding can be very wide in application.
    People often claim a motor has been rebuilt.
    This can vary from some fault rectified to a recondition of varying quality.

    A recondition can also be variable in some peoples terminology from many old parts such as heads,barrels n pistons etc being reused but new rings and bearings plus a valve grind.
    To a more correct useage where the engine is basically remanufactured to factory specs.
    Preferably this may include...
    New barrels and pistons.
    Case checked and line bored if necessary.
    Crank checked and machined if necessary.
    New cam preferred over a regrind. Sometimes old cam followers reground but new ones preferred due to old ones often not being sufficiently rehardened.
    New heads preferred over reconditioned old ones due to heat stress even if cracks not evident.
    Rods checked and resized.
    Pushrods and rocker gear reused.
    Obviously all new bearings and gaskets,seals.
    All tolerances measured and parts chosen accordingly.
    Cam gear attached with bolts rather than rivets.
    New valve adjusting screws often needed.

    Then comes the issue of trying to find quality parts. Not an easy task.

    Blueprinting will add closer specs on tolerances.
    Dynamic balancing of crank,rods,pistons,flywheel.
    Cc ing of heads.
    Some porting of heads.
    Better valves.
    Matchporting ( checking all manifolds and head ports line up perfectly.)
    Ensuring that selection of compression, head flow, cam, carbs, exhaust etc all balance.

    Obviously there are multiple levels to which one can go ;)
  17. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Avalon Beach NSW
    Pm sent.....
  18. DubDub1973

    DubDub1973 New Member

    Launceston, Tas
    Hi Sarah, as the owner of another Westfalia Camper (mine’s 1973, before they moved the roof rack to the front), welcome. Very happy to share tips and advice etc., although I’m a very new member myself.
  19. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Penna, Hobart
    We were in the NE Tas last week. Pity we didnt see you. Looks like you are well informed about options for your bus, hope it gets sorted soon.

  20. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Southern ACT
    Please tell me, is your name Sarah...? :rolleyes:

    I’m guessing not, but I see another poster has addressed you as such.

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