Oil Change Type 4 with pics

Discussion in ''How To' & 'Handy Hints'' started by felixqld66, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Oil change type 4 motor

    Picture help me a lot so I thought I would throw this up in case it helps anyone else.

    To do the job I got together the following tools – it was of course a journey of discovery.

    • 20 mm socket – for the oil drain plug
    • 13mm socket – for the filter screen cover
    • A socket bar for the above
    • An oil filter wrench from Supercheap
    • Rachet to suit the oil wrench
    • An engineers scribe – cause I know engineers are smart and do important stuff to cars
    • A tension wrench for tightening everything back up
    • Oil drain pan
    • A toothbrush – a guy doesn’t want to be accused of having breath
    bad enough to sink a prawn trawler, apart from that it is very handy for cleaning the filterscreen.

    [​IMG]

    I havd also purchased a filter, gasket and compression washer from a vw supplier

    [​IMG]

    Then with all the stuff I parked the kombi on the hottest concrete slab I could find and considered finding a more shaded/cooler location. Looking up under the motor I located the drain plug and undid that draining the oil into the pan. All care was taken but of course I dropped the plug into the pan.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    [​IMG]

    Then I removed the filter screen cover with the 13mm socket - the engineers scribe was handy to pop it off. The photo below shows the cover on just behind the drain plug.

    [​IMG]

    The filterscreen came out with the gasket in place

    [​IMG]
     
  3. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Then I removed the oil filter with the special wrench - now you see it

    [​IMG]

    Now you don't

    [​IMG]

    While the oil was draining I cleaned up the oil screen.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    When the oil was all drained I put a smear of oil on the gasket of the oil filter and screwed it back on tightening it by hand only.

    [​IMG]

    The filterscreen was fitted back back in with the gasket in place and the nut was tightened with the tension wrench to 9ft/lbs. The sump plug was also fitted with a compresion washer and tightened to 9ft/lbs by the wrench.

    Refilling the motor was done in a few stages so as to not over fill it, checking the dipstick.

    Pretty easy job really a mate an I did my bus and his T3 in about an hour sharing the tools and learning as we went. I reckon you could knock it over in 20 mins once you have done it the first time. ( Rods T3 had differant size nuts and I cannot remember the size I try to check his van next time I see him)
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2007
  5. Mike_76T2

    Mike_76T2 New Member

    Messages:
    153
    Location:
    Belair, Adelaide
    This posting is very much appreciated by people like myself who find it easier learning visually. Thank you! Now there is no excuse not to do it myself next time an oil change is needed.

    Oh, er and ... sticky, please! :)
     
  6. Kombirod

    Kombirod New Member

    Messages:
    1,132
    Location:
    Manly, NSW
    great posts and pics mate, will do this myself next change.
     
  7. ttmck

    ttmck Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,783
    Location:
    Hallett Cove STH AUS
    Very very good , im glad to see when i got back from nz i had a fellow member contact me with regards to have this as a sticky and its sure worth it ... pls every one if you attempt to do any thing take the time and post a small story and some pics the silly simple tasks that we can take for granted are always the most valuable to all members !! keep up the good work !

    OH DO THIS SMALL JOB YOURSELF YOU HAVE JUST SAVED UMM SAY 1/2 HOURS LABOUR COST AT A WORK SHOP AT AT 70 BUCKS AN HOUR YOU DO THE MATHS !!

    SO WHY NOT GIVE IT A GO..
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2007
  8. barrypond

    barrypond New Member

    Messages:
    1,818
    Location:
    castle Hill NSW
    Warning Warning !!!!

    When cleaning out the oil strainer be aware that the centre nut that secures the oil strainer plate tightens onto a long stud that anchors into the crankcase right in the middle of the motor. I have seen this stud broken off because of overtightening of the securing nut. & that means a complete engine pull apart to replace the broken stud. So just be careful retightening!!!!!! 9ft/lbs aint very much... Bazza
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2007
  9. felixqld66

    felixqld66 Member

    Messages:
    314
    Location:
    Sunshine Beach
    Bazza it says in John Muirs Book that 9ftlbs is the limit for tightening

    "....Clean the screen and plate with solvent, put on the two gaskets and replace the oil screen in the oil sump. Start the bolt and put it hand tight."

    [ then in big bold type]

    " THIS BOLT MUST NOT BE TORQUED OVER NINE FOOT POUNDS OR THE CAMSHAFT WILL BE HARMED! "

    John Muir Pg 113 1988 ed

    Sorry if I didn't make that clear enough but it is an important point. The drain plug was fitted with a new compression washer (tightened to 9ft/lbs) and hasn't leaked so far in 3500km.

    Cheers Alex
     
  10. Gabriella

    Gabriella New Member

    Messages:
    154
    Location:
    Canberra
    With the new oil filter do you need the new gasket and compression washer? If so can you purchase it from normal auto places ie. Repco, Supercheap.

    I already have the oil filter but not the gasket can washer.
     
  11. GypsyWannabe

    GypsyWannabe Active Member

    Messages:
    3,059
    Location:
    Quakers Hill, Sydney
    Hi Gabriella,

    I think you'll need to go to VW parts supplier. They're only a few dollars.

    Baz
     
  12. emby

    emby Active Member

    Messages:
    2,018
    Location:
    Wights Mountain, QLD
    Bugger. Just done the oil change and put it back the way it was and realise I have a gasket left over. Last oil change was done by someone else. Now, from readng this and looking at Bentley I realise I've boobed :cry:

    When you take out the oil strainer there's the metal washer for the nut and then the gasket that goes under the strainer. The other gasket goes between the strainer and the outer cover plate, doesn't it? I've already noticed a slight drip coming from the cover plate. What's the chances of re-using the oil, or should I bite the bullet and just put new stuff in again? Also, now that I've tightened the compressible washer under the nut is this now buggered and I shoudl use a new one?
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2011
  13. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,008
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    Never been able to get the drain plug out. Mine is an inverted hex so I welded a handle to a bolt that fits the plug but still NBG. Too tight! So I have always just drained with the oil filter removal and also usually drop the nut in the oil!

    Also like to do with the engine warm. Oil drains out nicely and it hurts more when you retrieve the bolt!
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2011
  14. Nigel

    Nigel Member

    Messages:
    619
    Location:
    Canvey Island, Essex, UK
    This drain plug, looks as though it has been cobbled together, from an M14 x 1·5 mm wheel-fixing stud & nut! I wonder what became of the original M12 x 1·5 mm drain plug!?!

     
  15. Mark Jenner

    Mark Jenner New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Location:
    Boyne Island QLD 4680
    Boyne Kombi

    How much oil to refill ?? sorry its been a long time between VW oil changes. :) and what does everyone recommend running in it what SAE and does anyone think fully sinthetic is the way to go
     
  16. Col Holden

    Col Holden Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Leschenault
    What oil do you use? I heard that diesel oil 15w40 I think is good for vw engines because diesel engines get hot also
     
  17. Alpal

    Alpal Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,008
    Location:
    Melbourne Bend of Islands
    For what engine?? Think type 4 is about 4.5L
     
  18. stusbus

    stusbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,326
    Location:
    Tamborine QLD
    Hi Col Holden
    Penrite HPR30 is a commonly used oil for air cooled engines however there is a thread in the forums somewhere that has a different option aswell from Mobil I think 1500king is the man to ask about that 1 thou ! Unless of course another member can help you out ??
     
  19. Col Holden

    Col Holden Member

    Messages:
    51
    Location:
    Leschenault
    Ok thanks
     
  20. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,421
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    think normal advice is NO to diesel oils . Maybe because of differing detergents??

    critical issue with vw air cooled is the zinc content for flat tappet cams. check data sheets.
    I wouldn't go below 1200 parts . 1500 is good.

    every opinion on options is usualy given on the subject

    I use the hpr 30 .
    something lighter [15/50 ish]would be good in a cold climate in winter

    just my view
     

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